Back door skin moving...anyone with the same problem?
After getting my 6 -12's in I have a problem with the back door outer skin moving about 1/2" and making the door handle rattle with it. I have done all the sound deading and sealing I can...any ideas what I can do now?
6 12's
OMG you know if you ever do find a way to keep the gate from flexing, that you are likely to flex somewhere else or perhaps even blow the glass out
How many DB's does the system make??
There is a way to do this, I think. I think if you were to fabricate some steel bars to run from right to left across the gate skin surface inside the gate (maybe 2-4, 3/8" or so, square tubing pieces might be a good choice. These bars need to be bent and shaped to fit somewhat flush against the inside of the skin. They could then be glued in place with the structural adhesive body shops use to install door skins and sometimes roofs and 1/4 panels. It would be most secure if the bars were welded as well somewhere out near the ends (could be welded inside the door avoiding repainting the gate perhaps. This should work as long as the adhesive holds against the constant pounding of the bass. A more destructive but absolutely fool proof way would be the same as above but to weld the gate skin to the bars every few inches all the way across....this of course would require body working the result all the way across the gate and repainting the gate.
OMG you know if you ever do find a way to keep the gate from flexing, that you are likely to flex somewhere else or perhaps even blow the glass out
How many DB's does the system make??There is a way to do this, I think. I think if you were to fabricate some steel bars to run from right to left across the gate skin surface inside the gate (maybe 2-4, 3/8" or so, square tubing pieces might be a good choice. These bars need to be bent and shaped to fit somewhat flush against the inside of the skin. They could then be glued in place with the structural adhesive body shops use to install door skins and sometimes roofs and 1/4 panels. It would be most secure if the bars were welded as well somewhere out near the ends (could be welded inside the door avoiding repainting the gate perhaps. This should work as long as the adhesive holds against the constant pounding of the bass. A more destructive but absolutely fool proof way would be the same as above but to weld the gate skin to the bars every few inches all the way across....this of course would require body working the result all the way across the gate and repainting the gate.
There's not a whole lot you can do to the skin except similar to what Ted explained.
If the handle is the only concern, then your best bet is to take the whole handle assembly out and put foam/dampening material between all of the contact points.
Some things you'll probably just have to accept with 6 12s.
Do you have the finished pics?
If the handle is the only concern, then your best bet is to take the whole handle assembly out and put foam/dampening material between all of the contact points.
Some things you'll probably just have to accept with 6 12s.
Do you have the finished pics?
Originally Posted by sizzlinscion
blowing the glass out is close impossible.
Thanks for all the ideas everyone. I am going to be working on it this week and see what I can make work. An idea I have is to remove all the sound deadening from that area and them epoxy some flat steel rods in and then re-deaden. I hope that this helps a little, thos back door handles make some serious noise!
Here is a pic...although unfinished.
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Here is a pic...although unfinished.
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Is your wiper shaved?? On mine the worst noise comes from the wiper blade itself. Noise from the rear handle unit could be hard to solve. If you can figure out what rattles in the handle, you may be able to put some little pieces of adhesive backed foam in place to cushion the spot. Shaving the handle and using a door popper would work for sure but is obviously more invloved.
Originally Posted by Spiderbox
holy lord
do you need to wear a cup when you listen to that?
do you need to wear a cup when you listen to that?
BTW how many layers of sound deadning do you have. I know that in several other deadening post the guys end up doing 2-3 layers before getting good results. Also try the egg crate method someone was talking about. It's not much but every little bit helps.
I actually have two layers of Sinus Live damping material everywhere. It is an asphalt based mat, but is much thicker than most others I have used and seen. As far as my wiper, it's not shaved, but it's not there anymore either. I used a small hole plug to fill he hole after removing it. Actually the least of my problem is the liftgate probably because it's covered in mat and four of the six subs face up. I am going to be messing with some ideas tonight to see what happens. I'll let you know what I come up with tonight.
What about the side panels and roofing? did you dampen that too? I read that you said everywhere, but some people forget about the roof. It might not help a great deal but you never know.







