xBHAWK

I installed ground wires and found that the negative terminal was too small to fit over the negative post. So I filed, and I filed, both the post and the aluminium terminal. I finally got it to go on, but only upside-down. The spacer threads are stripped so I don't have a good solid connection.
I need to replace the negative terminal with one that will securly hold the spacer that holds the circular plate with all the ground wires attached to it.

Can I dis-connect the negative terminal only? Without disconnecting the positive first?

I would like to avoid re-setting radio stations and greeting. The many wires will stay in place, I will connect the plate to a new spacer and negative terminal.

Thanks for the info.......

LEDMods_net

You can disconnect the negative terminal only, this will take all power away from your car (radio settings and such will be erased).

FYI: Whenever I install an amplifier in a car for a stereo system, I always, ALWAYS, upgrade the battery terminals and some of the power and ground wires running from the battery. I use gold plated terminals, and 4 gauge wires. This gives it a very good, solid connection, and allows plenty of current to flow.

That said, please, please, please don't file down your terminal!

xBHAWK

So disconnecting the negative drains all settings, just the same as disconnecting the positive. So I might as well disconnect the positive first to be safe.

I am sorry, but I had to shave or file both to get it to fit. I expanded the terminal as much as I dared. The post is still plenty fat.

Do not file down post/terminal for maximum contact. Is that what you mean?
Go with that thought..... care to explain further?

Back in the days, at a Sear's auto, we used files on posts to get down to fresh metal with no rust and we also filed terminals to acheve contact. These were used, old, customer's cars, not a new box.

Hey, WhiteBlazer, post a photo of your golden terminals, you have peaked my curiosity.
I can not afford gold, I have stock audio, but I am upgrading from aluminuim to metal(gold in color) negative terminal.

LEDMods_net

Just so you know, the positive and negative terminals on a battery are different sizes.

Here is a pic of the gold terminals I install. They cost me only $25 for a set of positive and negative, but I include it in the price for amplifier installations. I just feel its that important.



These terminals are adjustable, so its no problem. If there is any existing corrosion or acid on the battery post, I'll clean it up with a wire brush drill attachment. Does a GREAT job, and does not damage the post at all. Gets the job done right and fast.

Wire brush drill attachment.
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

Jhhnn

Always disconnect the negative (ground) first. If your wrench shorts to ground in the process, no harm done. Once the negative has been removed, the only possibility of shorting the positive to ground is directly across the battery terminals.

Auto electrical 101.

Always.

xBHAWK

That golden terminal screws down onto the wire. Nice.

With my DC Strut Tower Bar in the way......
and this daisy wheel of negative wire connections,
My positive can only turn the 10MM open ended wrench about three inches without touching negative grounded metal.
(Post photo here)

Thanks for the information.
Another mod in the books.
Another mos in the works....

Jhhnn

As an addendum to this topic, some of you may be interested in this stuff- it's the best anti-corrosive I've ever used on battery terminals, but hard to find. Not for show cars, but really good on daily drivers- brush it on once, and it works basically forever. Widely used in the transit and heavy truck industries.

http://cgi.ebay.com/4oz-SANCHEM-NO-O...QQcmdZViewItem

I have no affiliation with the seller... like I said, hard to find at the retail level....

scooter123

To save the settings it is worth investing in one of these http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...CAT439_pg4.htm

Just make sure that everything else is turned off or fuses pulled because an oops moment will suck a 9-volt dry in no time flat.