Hazard Fuse keeps blowing
Ok, I have been dealing with my Hazard fuse for the past 4-5 months now and it keeps blowing for apparent reason. I would take it in to the dealer but I have quite a bit of audio installed and I only had a few things wired in to the electical.
I have disconnected anything that was wired into the the elec. system and the only thing hooked up is two amps, head unit, speakers, and a sub.
The fuse blows at random times and works fine as soon as I replace the fuse. It does not blow when I turn the blinkers on or off nor does it when I turn on the hazards. It also does not blow when I arm / disarm my alarm which turns the blinkers on and off.
Any ideas where I should begin looking for the issue? I have pulled the dash pane off and checked the hazzard switch but that seems to work fine. Rechecked all my wiring and that is fine too.
Any help?
I have disconnected anything that was wired into the the elec. system and the only thing hooked up is two amps, head unit, speakers, and a sub.
The fuse blows at random times and works fine as soon as I replace the fuse. It does not blow when I turn the blinkers on or off nor does it when I turn on the hazards. It also does not blow when I arm / disarm my alarm which turns the blinkers on and off.
Any ideas where I should begin looking for the issue? I have pulled the dash pane off and checked the hazzard switch but that seems to work fine. Rechecked all my wiring and that is fine too.
Any help?
You might try checking the charging system with a voltmeter while your stereo system is cranked and subs are thumping. You may be pulling too much current for the battery and alternator to keep up with. If that's the case, you could experience voltage spikes at random times, which would blow fuses. Starving the charging system of current can also damage electronics, including amplifiers and woofers. If this is the case, you need to resolve this situation ASAP.
Where would I hook the volt meter into?
I am not sure if this is the case though because the fuse blew yesterday with the radio off. I normally don't drive with it cranked but I will still check.
I am not sure if this is the case though because the fuse blew yesterday with the radio off. I normally don't drive with it cranked but I will still check.
You can stick the probes for the voltmeter right on to the posts of the battery. That would be the best place to test the charging system.
Another possibility is a fouled connector, switch, or exposed wire somewhere in the circuit, that is occasionally shorting to ground.
Random electrical issues are very hard to pin down and resolve. I feel for you, bro! Good luck with it.
Another possibility is a fouled connector, switch, or exposed wire somewhere in the circuit, that is occasionally shorting to ground.
Random electrical issues are very hard to pin down and resolve. I feel for you, bro! Good luck with it.
Yeah, I am in the Motor Trend Show in Baltimore next week and I wont have time to pull my car apart but after the show I guess I am going to have to pull everything out and check all the "aftermarket" wiring.
I will try the voltmeter thing this weekend and see if I am spiking. What would be considered a spike. I know it should show like 12.6 or around there but is 14 or 18 considered a spike?
I will try the voltmeter thing this weekend and see if I am spiking. What would be considered a spike. I know it should show like 12.6 or around there but is 14 or 18 considered a spike?
It's more likely that your voltage is dropping rather than spiking. You shouldn't be running under 12V if the car is running. If you are dropping below this consistently, then you are pulling WAY too much current for the charging system.
Electrical components will behave strangely when they aren't getting adequate current. In most cases, inadequate or incorrect current levels will cause damage to components. This could be the source of your blowing fuse.
Your alternator is internally regulated, so you shouldn't be seeing voltages above 14.5 V. If you are seeing anything that is out of the 12-14.4V range consistently, then you need to figure out why and resolve the issue. If it's above 14.5V, then you probably have a dead voltage regulator which means alternator service or, more likely, replacement. If it's below 12 consistently, then you probably need to consider a larger battery and possibly a HO alternator.
Beyond that, I would start looking at anything that ties into the hazard/parking lights. This includes an alarm system, other lights, etc., etc.. Any exposed wire or connection could be the source of your popping fuse.
Electrical components will behave strangely when they aren't getting adequate current. In most cases, inadequate or incorrect current levels will cause damage to components. This could be the source of your blowing fuse.
Your alternator is internally regulated, so you shouldn't be seeing voltages above 14.5 V. If you are seeing anything that is out of the 12-14.4V range consistently, then you need to figure out why and resolve the issue. If it's above 14.5V, then you probably have a dead voltage regulator which means alternator service or, more likely, replacement. If it's below 12 consistently, then you probably need to consider a larger battery and possibly a HO alternator.
Beyond that, I would start looking at anything that ties into the hazard/parking lights. This includes an alarm system, other lights, etc., etc.. Any exposed wire or connection could be the source of your popping fuse.
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SJMiller
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Sep 12, 2015 06:33 PM








