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High Output Alternator's Who's In??????

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Old 02-25-2005, 04:13 AM
  #21  
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i found a person that would make one for like 500 so i am sure if alot of people did it there then we could get them evhttp://www.h-o-alternators.com/_vti_bin/shtml.dll/contact%20us.htmen cheeper the sight was
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Old 02-25-2005, 04:59 AM
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that is the same place i am referring to
the price breakdown per unit is at the beginning of this post
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Old 02-25-2005, 05:16 AM
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dont u hate when people dont read the posts...sheesh

by the way you can get a good deal on high output alternators here
evhttp://www.h-o-alternators.com/_vti_bin/shtml.dll/contact%20us.htmen
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Old 02-25-2005, 12:20 PM
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hey!@!!
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Old 02-25-2005, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Reign_Man
but i do realize that the cap is prolly the least needed....but you deffinately want to upgrade all of them cuz each one help oout another
Actually, the extra battery is the least needed. That would only be necessary if you were outperforming the the batterys capacity.... a few hundred amps is not going to be needed for most street systems. The light flicker is due to fast high current draws, which are best taken care of with a cap. So the cap would be the best choice to prevent small dimming of the lights due to most systems. You are essentially adding a second smaller battery when adding a cap.
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Old 02-25-2005, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by engifineer
Originally Posted by Scott17
Just some info for the newbies: These alternator rewinds, if done well, will surely supply more power than you can ever use. SERIOUS sp guys can use this and it would work well. Goobers who have a 1000 watt system or lower who think this would be cool to get should know that strapping one of these puppys on will definately be FELT in the power drag on the engine. It takes HP to make this kind of amperage and with the internal stock regulator, when this bad boy is charging, it will be noticable. Just sos ya know.
Little more info. There may be a little (and I mean tiny) extra drag due to the heavier windings under normal circumstances. You are not "creating" or "putting out" amperage. Current is drawn from the source. Power in = Power out. So a huge alternator running a 1000 watt amp takes no more work to turn than a stock one driving the same load. The difference is how much current the alternator is capable supplying. So just having a high output alternator with the same loads on it will not take any more work to turn. If you are using say 1000 watts for your loads (lights, stereo, etc) then it takes 1000 watts of power from your vehicle to supply it, regardless of the alternator. The only teeny tiny differnce is the actual physical resistance of turning the larger (hence heavier) rotor. That will be un-noticeable.

Now, do you need that much power? Your 95 watt alternator can supply approximately 1330 watts of power. So you have your normal load, plus your added sound system. And a 1000 peak amplifier is only capable of supplying about 700 watts rms for very short durations, so it is not using NEAR that much equivalent dc power continuously.

But, as was mentioned by someone else, adding that huge alternator is completely ridiculous unless you are a serious audiophile with a HUGE system. You do not need it. It will not take away any power, but will waste a ton of money. If you want to avoid lights flickering, invest a couple of hundred in a good quality capacitor. The lights flickering are in essence due to a low frequency variation on the power line (sag). The capacitor in effect counters this. Very effective and cheaper than a 700 dollar alternator you do not need. By the cap and save the rest of the money for some other cool mods
Partially true, I'll give you that. As long as, and I mean AS LONG AS, your system IS only this 1000W deal the cap will do the trick. A 1000W system doesn't have much of a continuous draw, like you said, so the stock alternator SHOULDN'T have any problems keeping the battery at the proper level (but it still is having to work harder than it was designed to). When you get into the 2000+ W's you definitely need to upgrade to a high output alternator (how else are you going to supply a draw like that). It's reallt quite simple....the stock alternator is NOT designed to run anything other than the stock electronics (granted there is a little leway), but not enough to keep up with an additional 100+ amp draw that 2000W system can have. Even at a continuous 700W system you're looking at around a 58 amp extra draw, and combined with your stock electrical system draw you are cutting it real close!! Yes the alternator will absorb that abuse for a while but long term it will not last as long as it should. Cut and dry....buy the alternator and solve any/all problems. Quit trying to take the CHEAP way out! Any serious stereo enthusiast/competitor knows what I'm talking about because they are ALL doing it. Caps are nice and DO help but they are nothing but a cheap/quick fix. It's the same story with everything in life, if you don't have the money to do it the correct way the first time, someone will figure out a cheap way to fix it temporarily and then end up paying the same money over time anyway that you could have spent up front and solved it for good!
And yes, like previously stated in other posts, you shouldn't (won't) notice a H-power loss running it.


Peace, I'm out!
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Old 02-25-2005, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by DB_Fan_4_Life
Originally Posted by engifineer
Originally Posted by Scott17
Just some info for the newbies: These alternator rewinds, if done well, will surely supply more power than you can ever use. SERIOUS sp guys can use this and it would work well. Goobers who have a 1000 watt system or lower who think this would be cool to get should know that strapping one of these puppys on will definately be FELT in the power drag on the engine. It takes HP to make this kind of amperage and with the internal stock regulator, when this bad boy is charging, it will be noticable. Just sos ya know.
Little more info. There may be a little (and I mean tiny) extra drag due to the heavier windings under normal circumstances. You are not "creating" or "putting out" amperage. Current is drawn from the source. Power in = Power out. So a huge alternator running a 1000 watt amp takes no more work to turn than a stock one driving the same load. The difference is how much current the alternator is capable supplying. So just having a high output alternator with the same loads on it will not take any more work to turn. If you are using say 1000 watts for your loads (lights, stereo, etc) then it takes 1000 watts of power from your vehicle to supply it, regardless of the alternator. The only teeny tiny differnce is the actual physical resistance of turning the larger (hence heavier) rotor. That will be un-noticeable.

Now, do you need that much power? Your 95 watt alternator can supply approximately 1330 watts of power. So you have your normal load, plus your added sound system. And a 1000 peak amplifier is only capable of supplying about 700 watts rms for very short durations, so it is not using NEAR that much equivalent dc power continuously.

But, as was mentioned by someone else, adding that huge alternator is completely ridiculous unless you are a serious audiophile with a HUGE system. You do not need it. It will not take away any power, but will waste a ton of money. If you want to avoid lights flickering, invest a couple of hundred in a good quality capacitor. The lights flickering are in essence due to a low frequency variation on the power line (sag). The capacitor in effect counters this. Very effective and cheaper than a 700 dollar alternator you do not need. By the cap and save the rest of the money for some other cool mods
Partially true, I'll give you that. As long as, and I mean AS LONG AS, your system IS only this 1000W deal the cap will do the trick. A 1000W system doesn't have much of a continuous draw, like you said, so the stock alternator SHOULDN'T have any problems keeping the battery at the proper level (but it still is having to work harder than it was designed to). When you get into the 2000+ W's you definitely need to upgrade to a high output alternator (how else are you going to supply a draw like that). It's reallt quite simple....the stock alternator is NOT designed to run anything other than the stock electronics (granted there is a little leway), but not enough to keep up with an additional 100+ amp draw that 2000W system can have. Even at a continuous 700W system you're looking at around a 58 amp extra draw, and combined with your stock electrical system draw you are cutting it real close!! Yes the alternator will absorb that abuse for a while but long term it will not last as long as it should. Cut and dry....buy the alternator and solve any/all problems. Quit trying to take the CHEAP way out! Any serious stereo enthusiast/competitor knows what I'm talking about because they are ALL doing it. Caps are nice and DO help but they are nothing but a cheap/quick fix. It's the same story with everything in life, if you don't have the money to do it the correct way the first time, someone will figure out a cheap way to fix it temporarily and then end up paying the same money over time anyway that you could have spent up front and solved it for good!
And yes, like previously stated in other posts, you shouldn't (won't) notice a H-power loss running it.


Peace, I'm out!
Ok, read again. You at least were courteous up until you told me to not take the cheap way out. I am very good at designing and installing audio/video systems, as well as control systems, logic circuits, communication systems...etc. (hence the name) and know how to provide stable solid solutions. I was using the numbers as an example to explain that simply having the larger alternator will not rob power. Now if you are drawing an extra 100 amps, yes you definitely do need a larger alternator, and the additional current will take power from the engine to supply. I also never said that using a cap will keep you from needing a larger alternator. What I said was that if you are not maxing out your alternator and all you a re trying to cure is minor dimming of the lights, then a cap is a better choice. A cap does nothing for your charging system, it acts as a low Q , high pass filter. Your system is supplying DC (low frequency, 0 to be exact) and the quick, hard draws when your amp is maxed out are seen as low frequency variations on the line. The capacitor acts to eliminate those variations. To put it simply, it acts as a small battery. If you would take the time to actually read and understand the posts, then you would see that you aren't correcting me at all, only agreeing and then being rude about it.
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Old 02-28-2005, 03:41 PM
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To Mr. Engineer: Calm down dude, SHEESH!!! My post was not, in any way, meant to be rude. Posts are meant to be a place where individuals can go and get more information and I was merely trying to make sure that someone who had no clue on what to do with his/her system, would not get the wrong idea that a cap is a "fix all" for their lack of proper amperage.

So here if this will make you feel better: Hey everyone...Mr. Engineer is correct in every way, shape, and form. He does this for a living and should know what he is talking about, and I apologize for coming across like I was implying he didn't know what he was saying.

Everyone still listening? OK! I will now recap short and sweet: 0 to approx. 1300W -should be fine with current alternator + a high quality cap or two
1301W-2500W-should upgrade to high output alternator (can leave cap installed obviously)
2500W plus- high output alternator(s) and additional battery(s)


Anytime you get into the 4000W+ range you are more than likely looking at having to run dual alternators BUT as with all the above information, it does pretty much depend on your listening style and how long and loud you listen to your system.

Well hopefully I didn't offend anyone this time and I hope we all learned a little bit in todays lesson.
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Old 02-28-2005, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by DB_Fan_4_Life
To Mr. Engineer: Calm down dude, SHEESH!!! My post was not, in any way, meant to be rude. Posts are meant to be a place where individuals can go and get more information and I was merely trying to make sure that someone who had no clue on what to do with his/her system, would not get the wrong idea that a cap is a "fix all" for their lack of proper amperage.

So here if this will make you feel better: Hey everyone...Mr. Engineer is correct in every way, shape, and form. He does this for a living and should know what he is talking about, and I apologize for coming across like I was implying he didn't know what he was saying.

Everyone still listening? OK! I will now recap short and sweet: 0 to approx. 1300W -should be fine with current alternator + a high quality cap or two
1301W-2500W-should upgrade to high output alternator (can leave cap installed obviously)
2500W plus- high output alternator(s) and additional battery(s)


Anytime you get into the 4000W+ range you are more than likely looking at having to run dual alternators BUT as with all the above information, it does pretty much depend on your listening style and how long and loud you listen to your system.

Well hopefully I didn't offend anyone this time and I hope we all learned a little bit in todays lesson.
Whateva...... If you did not mean it as rude then ok. It just came off that way. Usually telling someone to "Quit Being Cheap!" is not taken as constructive criticism. But , like I said, if that was not meant that way, then cool .
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Old 02-28-2005, 05:03 PM
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so im guessing...no ones in yet?
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Old 02-28-2005, 06:44 PM
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Whateva...... If you did not mean it as rude then ok. It just came off that way. Usually telling someone to "Quit Being Cheap!" is not taken as constructive criticism. But , like I said, if that was not meant that way, then cool .[/quote]

Point well taken! Again...I apologize. Have a good one man!
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Old 02-28-2005, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DB_Fan_4_Life
Everyone still listening? OK! I will now recap short and sweet: 0 to approx. 1300W -should be fine with current alternator + a high quality cap or two
1301W-2500W-should upgrade to high output alternator (can leave cap installed obviously)
2500W plus- high output alternator(s) and additional battery(s)
you do realize that we have stock 90 amp alternators right?
the advice would be okay, if we were going to play the system burps at a time...
but that is bad advice if you are running those numbers constantly...
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Old 02-28-2005, 07:12 PM
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I think your prices are way high on these alts
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Old 02-28-2005, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DB_Fan_4_Life
Whateva...... If you did not mean it as rude then ok. It just came off that way. Usually telling someone to "Quit Being Cheap!" is not taken as constructive criticism. But , like I said, if that was not meant that way, then cool .
Point well taken! Again...I apologize. Have a good one man![/quote]

No prob... it was a fun argument anyway :-) Even though we weren't really arguing... Have a good one...
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Old 02-28-2005, 08:07 PM
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I called HO and the price on these alternators are more than [/b]FULL RETAIL I wouldn't mind paying a fair price but not more than retail. If anyone wants one of these alternator for a fair price PM me I will put you in touch with an HO dealer
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Old 02-28-2005, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by oneslowxa
Originally Posted by DB_Fan_4_Life
Everyone still listening? OK! I will now recap short and sweet: 0 to approx. 1300W -should be fine with current alternator + a high quality cap or two
1301W-2500W-should upgrade to high output alternator (can leave cap installed obviously)
2500W plus- high output alternator(s) and additional battery(s)
you do realize that we have stock 90 amp alternators right?
the advice would be okay, if we were going to play the system burps at a time...
but that is bad advice if you are running those numbers constantly...
I believe I said something along the lines of..."it depends on your listening style, how loud and long you listen to it". Yes, I am fully aware that if you are listening to it full draw for long periods of time then your stock 90 amp alternator will not hold up. For this reason I specifically recommended UPGRADING to a high output alternator for systems above 1300W. I though it was pretty cut and dry really!!
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Old 03-02-2005, 04:12 AM
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i would be in if the prices werent a joke.....i will wait and find something eventually
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Old 03-03-2005, 05:23 PM
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Let's do the math fellas ..........90 amp stock unit for $372.44 from the dealer, or ............an identical looking unit,180 amps for $599 (if enough people jump on board)!! Sounds like a pretty good deal to me!!
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Old 03-03-2005, 05:59 PM
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Boy, thats some new math to me. I thought the equation was: 90A alternator= already paid for. 180A alternator that few people could put to good use=$600+ extra.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by flint_tC
i would be in if the prices werent a joke.....i will wait and find something eventually
this unit is not for the tC

and the repair bill will be a lot more expensive (not under warranty by any stretch of the imagination) than preparing for the future.

this is not for everyone, DB4life can attest that he is into SPL, alternators are quite necessary in his sport, as are batteries and caps.

this unit is not for the casual system, or the casual listener or the family man that just wants to keep his kids entertained

HO alternators are for competitors and people with a thirst for the very best that WILL NOT FAIL UNDER EXTREME LOAD..........

just think of it as a Carbon Feebray hood that will do more than look cool
or a body kit that will keep your headlights from dimming
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