High Output Alternator's Who's In??????
#21
i found a person that would make one for like 500 so i am sure if alot of people did it there then we could get them evhttp://www.h-o-alternators.com/_vti_bin/shtml.dll/contact%20us.htmen cheeper the sight was
#23
dont u hate when people dont read the posts...sheesh
by the way you can get a good deal on high output alternators here
evhttp://www.h-o-alternators.com/_vti_bin/shtml.dll/contact%20us.htmen
by the way you can get a good deal on high output alternators here
evhttp://www.h-o-alternators.com/_vti_bin/shtml.dll/contact%20us.htmen
#25
Originally Posted by Reign_Man
but i do realize that the cap is prolly the least needed....but you deffinately want to upgrade all of them cuz each one help oout another
#26
Originally Posted by engifineer
Originally Posted by Scott17
Just some info for the newbies: These alternator rewinds, if done well, will surely supply more power than you can ever use. SERIOUS sp guys can use this and it would work well. Goobers who have a 1000 watt system or lower who think this would be cool to get should know that strapping one of these puppys on will definately be FELT in the power drag on the engine. It takes HP to make this kind of amperage and with the internal stock regulator, when this bad boy is charging, it will be noticable. Just sos ya know.
Now, do you need that much power? Your 95 watt alternator can supply approximately 1330 watts of power. So you have your normal load, plus your added sound system. And a 1000 peak amplifier is only capable of supplying about 700 watts rms for very short durations, so it is not using NEAR that much equivalent dc power continuously.
But, as was mentioned by someone else, adding that huge alternator is completely ridiculous unless you are a serious audiophile with a HUGE system. You do not need it. It will not take away any power, but will waste a ton of money. If you want to avoid lights flickering, invest a couple of hundred in a good quality capacitor. The lights flickering are in essence due to a low frequency variation on the power line (sag). The capacitor in effect counters this. Very effective and cheaper than a 700 dollar alternator you do not need. By the cap and save the rest of the money for some other cool mods
And yes, like previously stated in other posts, you shouldn't (won't) notice a H-power loss running it.
Peace, I'm out!
#27
Originally Posted by DB_Fan_4_Life
Originally Posted by engifineer
Originally Posted by Scott17
Just some info for the newbies: These alternator rewinds, if done well, will surely supply more power than you can ever use. SERIOUS sp guys can use this and it would work well. Goobers who have a 1000 watt system or lower who think this would be cool to get should know that strapping one of these puppys on will definately be FELT in the power drag on the engine. It takes HP to make this kind of amperage and with the internal stock regulator, when this bad boy is charging, it will be noticable. Just sos ya know.
Now, do you need that much power? Your 95 watt alternator can supply approximately 1330 watts of power. So you have your normal load, plus your added sound system. And a 1000 peak amplifier is only capable of supplying about 700 watts rms for very short durations, so it is not using NEAR that much equivalent dc power continuously.
But, as was mentioned by someone else, adding that huge alternator is completely ridiculous unless you are a serious audiophile with a HUGE system. You do not need it. It will not take away any power, but will waste a ton of money. If you want to avoid lights flickering, invest a couple of hundred in a good quality capacitor. The lights flickering are in essence due to a low frequency variation on the power line (sag). The capacitor in effect counters this. Very effective and cheaper than a 700 dollar alternator you do not need. By the cap and save the rest of the money for some other cool mods
And yes, like previously stated in other posts, you shouldn't (won't) notice a H-power loss running it.
Peace, I'm out!
#28
To Mr. Engineer: Calm down dude, SHEESH!!! My post was not, in any way, meant to be rude. Posts are meant to be a place where individuals can go and get more information and I was merely trying to make sure that someone who had no clue on what to do with his/her system, would not get the wrong idea that a cap is a "fix all" for their lack of proper amperage.
So here if this will make you feel better: Hey everyone...Mr. Engineer is correct in every way, shape, and form. He does this for a living and should know what he is talking about, and I apologize for coming across like I was implying he didn't know what he was saying.
Everyone still listening? OK! I will now recap short and sweet: 0 to approx. 1300W -should be fine with current alternator + a high quality cap or two
1301W-2500W-should upgrade to high output alternator (can leave cap installed obviously)
2500W plus- high output alternator(s) and additional battery(s)
Anytime you get into the 4000W+ range you are more than likely looking at having to run dual alternators BUT as with all the above information, it does pretty much depend on your listening style and how long and loud you listen to your system.
Well hopefully I didn't offend anyone this time and I hope we all learned a little bit in todays lesson.
So here if this will make you feel better: Hey everyone...Mr. Engineer is correct in every way, shape, and form. He does this for a living and should know what he is talking about, and I apologize for coming across like I was implying he didn't know what he was saying.
Everyone still listening? OK! I will now recap short and sweet: 0 to approx. 1300W -should be fine with current alternator + a high quality cap or two
1301W-2500W-should upgrade to high output alternator (can leave cap installed obviously)
2500W plus- high output alternator(s) and additional battery(s)
Anytime you get into the 4000W+ range you are more than likely looking at having to run dual alternators BUT as with all the above information, it does pretty much depend on your listening style and how long and loud you listen to your system.
Well hopefully I didn't offend anyone this time and I hope we all learned a little bit in todays lesson.
#29
Originally Posted by DB_Fan_4_Life
To Mr. Engineer: Calm down dude, SHEESH!!! My post was not, in any way, meant to be rude. Posts are meant to be a place where individuals can go and get more information and I was merely trying to make sure that someone who had no clue on what to do with his/her system, would not get the wrong idea that a cap is a "fix all" for their lack of proper amperage.
So here if this will make you feel better: Hey everyone...Mr. Engineer is correct in every way, shape, and form. He does this for a living and should know what he is talking about, and I apologize for coming across like I was implying he didn't know what he was saying.
Everyone still listening? OK! I will now recap short and sweet: 0 to approx. 1300W -should be fine with current alternator + a high quality cap or two
1301W-2500W-should upgrade to high output alternator (can leave cap installed obviously)
2500W plus- high output alternator(s) and additional battery(s)
Anytime you get into the 4000W+ range you are more than likely looking at having to run dual alternators BUT as with all the above information, it does pretty much depend on your listening style and how long and loud you listen to your system.
Well hopefully I didn't offend anyone this time and I hope we all learned a little bit in todays lesson.
So here if this will make you feel better: Hey everyone...Mr. Engineer is correct in every way, shape, and form. He does this for a living and should know what he is talking about, and I apologize for coming across like I was implying he didn't know what he was saying.
Everyone still listening? OK! I will now recap short and sweet: 0 to approx. 1300W -should be fine with current alternator + a high quality cap or two
1301W-2500W-should upgrade to high output alternator (can leave cap installed obviously)
2500W plus- high output alternator(s) and additional battery(s)
Anytime you get into the 4000W+ range you are more than likely looking at having to run dual alternators BUT as with all the above information, it does pretty much depend on your listening style and how long and loud you listen to your system.
Well hopefully I didn't offend anyone this time and I hope we all learned a little bit in todays lesson.
#31
Whateva...... If you did not mean it as rude then ok. It just came off that way. Usually telling someone to "Quit Being Cheap!" is not taken as constructive criticism. But , like I said, if that was not meant that way, then cool .[/quote]
Point well taken! Again...I apologize. Have a good one man!
Point well taken! Again...I apologize. Have a good one man!
#32
Originally Posted by DB_Fan_4_Life
Everyone still listening? OK! I will now recap short and sweet: 0 to approx. 1300W -should be fine with current alternator + a high quality cap or two
1301W-2500W-should upgrade to high output alternator (can leave cap installed obviously)
2500W plus- high output alternator(s) and additional battery(s)
1301W-2500W-should upgrade to high output alternator (can leave cap installed obviously)
2500W plus- high output alternator(s) and additional battery(s)
the advice would be okay, if we were going to play the system burps at a time...
but that is bad advice if you are running those numbers constantly...
#34
Originally Posted by DB_Fan_4_Life
Whateva...... If you did not mean it as rude then ok. It just came off that way. Usually telling someone to "Quit Being Cheap!" is not taken as constructive criticism. But , like I said, if that was not meant that way, then cool .
No prob... it was a fun argument anyway :-) Even though we weren't really arguing... Have a good one...
#35
OUCH!!!
I called HO and the price on these alternators are more than [/b]FULL RETAIL I wouldn't mind paying a fair price but not more than retail. If anyone wants one of these alternator for a fair price PM me I will put you in touch with an HO dealer
#36
Originally Posted by oneslowxa
Originally Posted by DB_Fan_4_Life
Everyone still listening? OK! I will now recap short and sweet: 0 to approx. 1300W -should be fine with current alternator + a high quality cap or two
1301W-2500W-should upgrade to high output alternator (can leave cap installed obviously)
2500W plus- high output alternator(s) and additional battery(s)
1301W-2500W-should upgrade to high output alternator (can leave cap installed obviously)
2500W plus- high output alternator(s) and additional battery(s)
the advice would be okay, if we were going to play the system burps at a time...
but that is bad advice if you are running those numbers constantly...
#40
Originally Posted by flint_tC
i would be in if the prices werent a joke.....i will wait and find something eventually
and the repair bill will be a lot more expensive (not under warranty by any stretch of the imagination) than preparing for the future.
this is not for everyone, DB4life can attest that he is into SPL, alternators are quite necessary in his sport, as are batteries and caps.
this unit is not for the casual system, or the casual listener or the family man that just wants to keep his kids entertained
HO alternators are for competitors and people with a thirst for the very best that WILL NOT FAIL UNDER EXTREME LOAD..........
just think of it as a Carbon Feebray hood that will do more than look cool
or a body kit that will keep your headlights from dimming