Install: Cravenspeed Short Shifter
03-22-2007, 05:03 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Portland, OR
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Install: Cravenspeed Short Shifter
I recently installed the Cravenspeed adjustable short shifter available at www.cravenspeed.com. This shifter is an adjustable anodized aluminum unit. It has a center metal **** that is threaded, and when you loosen it, the shifter slides up and down allowing for variable height. I was asked to do an install on the product, so here goes.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
You’ll need the following tools to install the shifter:
Flathead screwdriver
Phillips-head screwdriver
Needle-nose pliers
Ratchet with 10mm socket
Rubber mallet/hammer
3/8” Dished lock washer with internal teeth (see caption 9)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Unscrew the stock shift ****.
2. Remove the tab in front of the e-brake. It simply pulls out. Also, at the rearmost compartment of the center console, remove the felt pad, and unscrew the single Phillips-head screw from the base. Pull from the console’s front to remove the enter console (make sure to retain the white plastic pegs by the cupholders).
3. Here’s what lies underneath. You can see what the OEM shifter looks like, and the white frame that holds it in place. This part will need to come out.
4. Unclip the large gray plug. You’ll need a smaller flathead screwdriver to press down the tab, and pull. This can be a bit difficult since the plug is attached to the car.
5. Remove this pin; it holds part of the shifter mechanism in place. Make sure to retain this pin.
6. Using your ratchet and 10mm socket, remove the four corner bolts that hold the shifter frame in place.
7. Unclip the shift linkages from the frame. A moderate amount of force may be needed.
8. When the shift linkage is removed, rotate the entire frame on its side. You’ll notice several wires are still attached from the frame’s underside with plastic clips. Use a screwdriver to push the clips through the holes, releasing the tension on the shifter frame. Now remove the black clip from the plastic block. Again, retain the clip.
9. This is a two-part photo.
a. In the upper-right corner, you’ll see a black ring. This ring, which is a lock washer, was located on the circular part of the frame (see arrow), and holds in a retaining pin. It is nearly impossible to remove without destroying it. In fact, I ended up using my Dremel tool to cut it off, and frankly, that’s what I’d recommend. It’ll save a lot of time and energy if you just cut it. I brought the cut one into the hardware store, and sure enough – they had replacements. The 3/8” size was almost a direct replacement.
b. After removing the lock washer, use a punch (or in my case a long bolt) and a rubber mallet/hammer to push the large metal pin out the opposite end of the shifter frame.
10. When the metal pin is out, you’ll also remove the other part of the plastic frame, which attaches to the protruding end of the shifter itself.
11. Pry the retaining ring from the main base. This was a bit scary, as it’s in there with a lot of pressure. I used two flathead screwdrivers (with some help from another person), to pry this off. I was a bit worried about cracking the plastic, but luckily this didn’t happen. However, work with caution here. (Sorry for the craptastic photo.)
12. Once the OEM shifter is removed from its housing, turn it upside down, and you’ll need to pop the little cup off the end. I used an adjustable crescent wrench as lever to pop this cup off. Keep an eye on it when it comes off – it’ll will go flying.
13. Unscrew the Cravenspeed shifter’s adjustable metal ****, and drop the new shifter into the shifter frame, making sure the new shifter has plenty of lube on it. Slide the plastic retaining ring over the top, then thread the shifter’s plastic adjustment **** back on.
14. Here’s my brand-new 3/8" lock washer – it cost a whopping $0.16 at the local True Value hardware store. Buy a few just in case.
15. The guy at the hardware store said the best way to put these lock washers on is to use your ratchet with a socket on the end of it, and give it a good hit with a hammer/mallet. That’s what I did, and it worked like a charm.
16. Now’s the time when you reverse your install, and put things back together. I’m not going to detail that. Just make sure you don’t have any left-over parts! Here’s how it should look before replacing the center console. Don't forget to reconnect that plug!
Here’s the finished product, topped with a Cravenspeed aluminum shift ****. Looks great!
My overall impressions of the shifter
Of course, the most important part is – how does it shift? The short answer is a resounding “great!”
By twisting the adjustment **** on the shifter (which you can do through the shift boot), you get about an inch, inch-and-a-half of vertical adjustment. At first, I didn’t think that was much of a big deal. However, it makes a lot of difference in the way the shifter feels. When all the way down, it felt very tight (too tight for me), and when all the way up, it felt closer to stock. I have it set halfway between.
The shifts are not the shortest in the world, but they are shorter than stock. More importantly, the shifts feel so much better than stock; more precise, less rubbery by far. The ability to make quicker, more precise shifts is (to me) more important than just a short throw. The more I use it, the more I like it. It makes the vehicle seem sportier, and to me sportier = good.
Thanks to Cravenspeed for the opportunity to do the write-up and review on this product.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
You’ll need the following tools to install the shifter:
Flathead screwdriver
Phillips-head screwdriver
Needle-nose pliers
Ratchet with 10mm socket
Rubber mallet/hammer
3/8” Dished lock washer with internal teeth (see caption 9)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Unscrew the stock shift ****.
2. Remove the tab in front of the e-brake. It simply pulls out. Also, at the rearmost compartment of the center console, remove the felt pad, and unscrew the single Phillips-head screw from the base. Pull from the console’s front to remove the enter console (make sure to retain the white plastic pegs by the cupholders).
3. Here’s what lies underneath. You can see what the OEM shifter looks like, and the white frame that holds it in place. This part will need to come out.
4. Unclip the large gray plug. You’ll need a smaller flathead screwdriver to press down the tab, and pull. This can be a bit difficult since the plug is attached to the car.
5. Remove this pin; it holds part of the shifter mechanism in place. Make sure to retain this pin.
6. Using your ratchet and 10mm socket, remove the four corner bolts that hold the shifter frame in place.
7. Unclip the shift linkages from the frame. A moderate amount of force may be needed.
8. When the shift linkage is removed, rotate the entire frame on its side. You’ll notice several wires are still attached from the frame’s underside with plastic clips. Use a screwdriver to push the clips through the holes, releasing the tension on the shifter frame. Now remove the black clip from the plastic block. Again, retain the clip.
9. This is a two-part photo.
a. In the upper-right corner, you’ll see a black ring. This ring, which is a lock washer, was located on the circular part of the frame (see arrow), and holds in a retaining pin. It is nearly impossible to remove without destroying it. In fact, I ended up using my Dremel tool to cut it off, and frankly, that’s what I’d recommend. It’ll save a lot of time and energy if you just cut it. I brought the cut one into the hardware store, and sure enough – they had replacements. The 3/8” size was almost a direct replacement.
b. After removing the lock washer, use a punch (or in my case a long bolt) and a rubber mallet/hammer to push the large metal pin out the opposite end of the shifter frame.
10. When the metal pin is out, you’ll also remove the other part of the plastic frame, which attaches to the protruding end of the shifter itself.
11. Pry the retaining ring from the main base. This was a bit scary, as it’s in there with a lot of pressure. I used two flathead screwdrivers (with some help from another person), to pry this off. I was a bit worried about cracking the plastic, but luckily this didn’t happen. However, work with caution here. (Sorry for the craptastic photo.)
12. Once the OEM shifter is removed from its housing, turn it upside down, and you’ll need to pop the little cup off the end. I used an adjustable crescent wrench as lever to pop this cup off. Keep an eye on it when it comes off – it’ll will go flying.
13. Unscrew the Cravenspeed shifter’s adjustable metal ****, and drop the new shifter into the shifter frame, making sure the new shifter has plenty of lube on it. Slide the plastic retaining ring over the top, then thread the shifter’s plastic adjustment **** back on.
14. Here’s my brand-new 3/8" lock washer – it cost a whopping $0.16 at the local True Value hardware store. Buy a few just in case.
15. The guy at the hardware store said the best way to put these lock washers on is to use your ratchet with a socket on the end of it, and give it a good hit with a hammer/mallet. That’s what I did, and it worked like a charm.
16. Now’s the time when you reverse your install, and put things back together. I’m not going to detail that. Just make sure you don’t have any left-over parts! Here’s how it should look before replacing the center console. Don't forget to reconnect that plug!
Here’s the finished product, topped with a Cravenspeed aluminum shift ****. Looks great!
My overall impressions of the shifter
Of course, the most important part is – how does it shift? The short answer is a resounding “great!”
By twisting the adjustment **** on the shifter (which you can do through the shift boot), you get about an inch, inch-and-a-half of vertical adjustment. At first, I didn’t think that was much of a big deal. However, it makes a lot of difference in the way the shifter feels. When all the way down, it felt very tight (too tight for me), and when all the way up, it felt closer to stock. I have it set halfway between.
The shifts are not the shortest in the world, but they are shorter than stock. More importantly, the shifts feel so much better than stock; more precise, less rubbery by far. The ability to make quicker, more precise shifts is (to me) more important than just a short throw. The more I use it, the more I like it. It makes the vehicle seem sportier, and to me sportier = good.
Thanks to Cravenspeed for the opportunity to do the write-up and review on this product.
03-22-2007, 01:14 PM
#4
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SL Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Stafford, VA
Posts: 1,333
Very nice write up.
You don't have bB bench seats do you!? that last pic is tripping me out so bad lol
Looks like a sweet install. You did much better than I did when trying to swap the linkage on the RS Type shifter...I screwed that plastic all up...so bad I had to ditch the entire shifter and put a stock one back in.
sweet shift **** too btw
You don't have bB bench seats do you!? that last pic is tripping me out so bad lol
Looks like a sweet install. You did much better than I did when trying to swap the linkage on the RS Type shifter...I screwed that plastic all up...so bad I had to ditch the entire shifter and put a stock one back in.
sweet shift **** too btw
05-09-2007, 05:33 PM
#13
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SL Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Slimey Valley, SoCal
Posts: 1,235
i had to shim my shifter assy up about an inch on all 4 corners and had to get longer bolts to accomodate the longer shifter leangth under the basll if that makes any sence.. because it is adjustable, and you can move the shifter down to change the throw, when you move it down into short position, the bottom of the shifter was bottoming out on the floor, so i shimmed it up with washers for clearance.. now with this in the full down ( short ) position being shimmed up, the top sits at stock heigth, but the travel is much shorter. sorry no pics, my camera busted!
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