need some help with wiring some switches...

got a led protector rocker switch, has 3 prongs... don't know how to hook them up, trying to learn, lol.. not goin good, need some advice or just tell me what to do :D

alos, got a engine start button, need to splice it into the ignition wire... whats the easiest way to get the ignition wire?

 

as far as the rocker switch goes i had the same issue and never tried to figure it out.. basically i only had two wires and three prongs i just tried diff wires on diff prongs till it finally worked LOL.

as far as the ignition wire u'd have to ask someone else on my protege it was a blue wire on the wireing harness under the steering column.. and for ignition starter switch do you mean a kill switch or u have to push that buton to get the car to start?

if you mean a kill switch be sure u hide that very well... dont hide it in the shifter boot or under the dash or seat.. be creative... and definately dont use the cigarette lighter as the kill switch.. be creative like putting it somewhere in the headliner, or somewhere in the car were a kill switch normally isn't placed.

 

i got an engine start push button...

so, whats that 3rd prong for? lol... did you just use 2 wires or use 3? i know that 3rd prong is to power the led light on the tip of the switch but i wanna be sure, i tested the switch with just two wires on the two prongs pointing back and it works fine but the led tip didn't light up... think another power source just goes there?

 

two wires should work,, i think the third prong is for another option can the rocker be on or off or inbetween? the one i had that had 3 prongs could be on off or inbetween. one of the prongs is the ground the other is power and the otherone was power of a diff source.. for the switch i had. if the rocker has a light on it that third prong could be to power that light...

 

awesome, thanks alot, just wanted to be sure on that.

now i just need to find the ignition wire...

 

ask ur service tech at toyota they have a service manual and he shoudl be able to tell u which wire is the ignition wire... but to be honost if u wanna figure it out on you own get you a volt meter...

pull off the plastic under the steering column until u locate the wireing harness...

take ur volt meter and poke each wire, one wire is a 12v constant and will always be hot. one is a ground whcih shouldn't read anything now most of the wires u'll have to test twice,, leave ur car off and poke the wire,, then turn u car to the start / ignition part u dont have to turn the car all the way on jsut one click, and test the wire agian... if it has power when in the ignition and doesn't with the key out.. then u found the right wire.

 

thank you... just found this on a search... thought i saw it somewhere.

| 12V|wht/blu and wht/red |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION|black/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|blue/red |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|blue/white *1 |- |driver kick, 14 pin plug |
| POWER UNLOCK|yellow/black *1 |- |driver kick, 14 pin plug |
| LOCK MOTOR|blue/orange |5wi|driver kick, 9 pin plug |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|yellow/green |5wi|driver kick, 9 pin plug |
| DISARM DEFEAT|blue/black |5wi|passenger kick, 9 pin plug |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|green | |headlight switch *2 |
| HEADLIGHTS|black/white |- |headlight switch |
| DOOR TRIGGER|red/white |- |top of fuse box, 9 pin plug |
| DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger | | |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|common with doors | | |
| TACHOMETER|black | |data link connector *3 |
| SPEED SENSE|purple/white | |back of fuse box,18 pin plug|
| BRAKE WIRE|green/red |+ |brake pedal switch *2 |
| HORN TRIGGER|white/red |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|gry (L), blk/red (H)|+ |steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|red/blu - grn/wht |A |driver window switch in door|
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|red/blu - grn/wht |A |driver kick, 9 pin plug |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|red/yel - grn/yel |A |driver kick, 4 pin plug |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|red/blk - grn/blk |A |driver kick, 4 pin plug |
| RADIO 12V|blue/yellow |+ |radio harness |
| RADIO GROUND|white/black |- |radio harness |
| RADIO SWITCH|gray |+ |radio harness |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|green |+ |radio harness |
| POWER ANTENNA|black/red |+ |radio harness |
| LF SPEAKER|pink - purple |+,-|radio harness |
| RF SPEAKER|lt. green - blue |+,-|radio harness |
| LR SPEAKER|black - yellow |+,-|radio harness |
| RR SPEAKER|red - white |+,-|radio harness |

 

yet another question... last one... does it matter what gauge wire you're using to hook these up? the engine start button said to use 12 gauge for the igntion splice, i got 14 and that thing it like a coat hanger... 12 would be even thicker... it's a single strand, so maybe i need the wires with many strands?

what type of wires should i use... i'm gonna get this thing working tonight, lol :D

 

me personaly when i do things like this, i use the saem guage wire that the wiring harness uses... so if the harness is using 10guage then thats what i would use.. and as far as colors go.. try to keep them the same so if the ignition wrie is blue then use blue wiring off of that so u know its an ignition wire..

just curious as to why you want a ignition starter button? just for looks or is there a perticular reason?

 

just for looks... i made a switch panel in my lower compartment using the ignited din panel, gots a spot for an engine start button and 3 switches... 1's to power the engine start button so i don't accidentally grind or if someones playing with it, and the other two are for interior and underbody lighting. :D

here's a few pics... these were taken with a camera phone, quality is poor


haven't taken a pic of it installed yet... got the other two switches coming in either tomorrow or monday to fill the holes, looks pretty good with just the engine start and the one switch so far :D

 

ah i got you now.. makes sense... if ur gonna do all that for security reason might as well ad a killswitch but hide that.. and i wouldn't use the kill switch all the time just when ur in a area ur not sure about..

 

Note the fact that there is an ignition wire, and a 2nd Ignition wire. When getting my remote start alarm installed I learned that there are 2 wires, that must both be connected for the remote start (or push button start) to work - If it's not something you have worked with before, I would definately suggest talking to someone who has before installing the push button starter. I know Adrian (ScioninLA) has one, and many members on here have it and would be happy to answer questions. It's awesome to see people doing own installs, etc. but just make sure you know what's up before you start!

 

hello fellow ryan,

i agree with you 100% i knew a few ppl on the protege forms that jumped right in accidently cut into the wrong wire and kaboom there went the wiring harness and not under warranty... also knew of a few ppl that cut a wire and were unable to get it to work after sodering and everything else...

just be sure u know its gonna work.

 

my bad.. on the instructions it says splice into starter wire, not ignition, i got the ignition part from the directions where it says to connect 12v power source when ignition is in "on" position.

there's only 1 starter wire, but then again it's also black, same as the primary ignition wire. i've got little splicers, so i don't got to cut any wires, but i'm waiting for adrian to get back to me with some pointers on the install. think thats the one? thanks for your guys help.

oh, also, i am wanting to hook a switch to the engine start button, do i just run the power and ground from the engine start to the switch?

 

okay.. i got an idea on how to hook it up but can someone verify that this is correct for me?

As Per Instructions Given:

Engine Start Button
-Back Light
"X1"=12 Volt Power Source When Key Is In On Position
"X2"=Ground
-Push Button
"-3"=Splice To The Starter Wire
"-4"=12 Volt Source When Key Is In On Position

K, here's what i had in mind, judging from what someone had told me about switches just completing the circuit.

"X1" to "-4" to Positive on Switch to Cigarette Lighter Power Wire
"X2" to Negative on Switch to Bare Metal Inside Car
"-3" to Black Starter Wire in Ignition Harness

by doing this the backlight on the start button would only light up when armed by switch and would only work when armed by switch... correct?

 

i have no idea i usually jsut rig it and see if it works... if u use vampires or linetaps as there proffesionaly known u really cant screw up.. just give it a whirl if it works great if not then oops.. there isn't really a way to mess up the electrical system in a car anymore unless you cut the inline fus of of something or intentionally do something u know you weren't supposed to most of the time it either work or it doesn't without consequence.