new cold cathodes installed
I like these alot!! They have a cool deep blue color when you actually see them in person...and as for the 30 minute install...hahaha yea right took me about an hour and half for a pretty clean install in my opinion. but ne way here are some pix.




But i do have one question!
Ok i used an add-a-circuit and there was a 10 amp fuse i had to take out of the fuse box and add on to the add-a-circuit. Next i take my box out at night and my drivers side headlight is as bout as bright as my parking lights and it would switch to high beams! The passengers side headlight is fine though. Im thinking either i have a bent wire somewhere or the add-a-circuit cant handle that fuse i had to add on? If someone could put some input on this, that would be great! Planning on checking it out tomorrow when i got some sun rays!




But i do have one question!
Ok i used an add-a-circuit and there was a 10 amp fuse i had to take out of the fuse box and add on to the add-a-circuit. Next i take my box out at night and my drivers side headlight is as bout as bright as my parking lights and it would switch to high beams! The passengers side headlight is fine though. Im thinking either i have a bent wire somewhere or the add-a-circuit cant handle that fuse i had to add on? If someone could put some input on this, that would be great! Planning on checking it out tomorrow when i got some sun rays!
Try this real quick and let me know what happens. Take the add-a-fuse out, and replace with original or like 10 amp fuse. Test the head lights. See what happens. If the headlamps go back to normal find another fuse to use.
Electrical work can be a pain in the ****. If a wire is bent it will still work, however if the insulation around the wire comes off or gets rubbed off and it touches something it can blow a fuse/fusible link. Electrical stuff in car and in most cases will either work or not. let me know what happens. Also which fuse did you use?
Electrical work can be a pain in the ****. If a wire is bent it will still work, however if the insulation around the wire comes off or gets rubbed off and it touches something it can blow a fuse/fusible link. Electrical stuff in car and in most cases will either work or not. let me know what happens. Also which fuse did you use?
yea when i take the add-a-circuit out and put the original 10 amp fuse back into the headlight fuse holder the headlights work fine...but obviously my cathodes wont because they are not tapped into that fuse location! Ive tried every fuse location with the add a circuit ex. headlights, radio, ignition and so forth.
What i am probably going to end up doing is just forgeting the add a fuse and run an inline fuse and tap it into the cigarette lighter or something...dang i hate electrical stuff!
What i am probably going to end up doing is just forgeting the add a fuse and run an inline fuse and tap it into the cigarette lighter or something...dang i hate electrical stuff!
yeah, more then likely. you shouldn't stack them. like i said electricty is funny like that. in theory you should be able to get away with something like that. lol. you can get wire taps that just clip on to the wires. i hate them but i know people who swear by them.
When it comes to electrical wiring I'd suggest going the inline-fuse route. Better protection for anything connected. That and you won't have to give yourself a headache. lol
the "wire taps" some look like the picture in this link
http://www.nelcoproducts.com/shoppin...pid=220&cid=66
Basically you put a wire in one end and connect the extra wire and crimp. No soldering. I don't like them cause I've seen them come loose over time. there are several different types, but I still believe in the flux, solder, heatshrink tubing method. But I'm a little OCD about that kinda stuff. lol
the "wire taps" some look like the picture in this link
http://www.nelcoproducts.com/shoppin...pid=220&cid=66
Basically you put a wire in one end and connect the extra wire and crimp. No soldering. I don't like them cause I've seen them come loose over time. there are several different types, but I still believe in the flux, solder, heatshrink tubing method. But I'm a little OCD about that kinda stuff. lol
for the cathodes as long as they are on a switch I'd just run them straight to the battery (its what I did, for something like leds that draw no power at all, you can easily use the add a fuse
the cathodes draw a good deal of power so you might need (if you want to use the add a fuse) to use a 20 amp fuse to begin with, also what your going to find out (if your dealers are like mine) is your going to need to build your own fuse block and just run another power wire to the battery, mine voided a warranty because of an add a fuse, and charged me $60 for a fuse
***UPDATE***
I took out the add-a-Sh**...haha and ran a wire to my amp that is powering my subs, to my switch for the cathodes. Works very nicely now! Never thought of that before but it just came to me haha. And the amp is already grounded and stuff so all it took was one little wire to the switch!
Another question...
I want to put my switch in the empty tab by the e-brake but couldnt find the bolts to take the console off...Im guessing they are under the carpet? How would i go about doing this?
Thanx for the help guys
I took out the add-a-Sh**...haha and ran a wire to my amp that is powering my subs, to my switch for the cathodes. Works very nicely now! Never thought of that before but it just came to me haha. And the amp is already grounded and stuff so all it took was one little wire to the switch!
Another question...
I want to put my switch in the empty tab by the e-brake but couldnt find the bolts to take the console off...Im guessing they are under the carpet? How would i go about doing this?
Thanx for the help guys
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