Is there a DIY available anywhere for install instructions?

And two: do they require an Amp to operate?

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Yes there are DIY instructions. Whether you need an amp or not depends on what ohm load you are trying to put on the Headunit. I just used a set of components in mine. Woofer in the door and tweets in the dash. No amp need for that.

 

ok, i dont need anything fancy at all, just something to replace the stock ones. how hard is an install for the dash? i will do the doors later.

 

On each side there are speaker covers that pop out fairly easy. The speakers come out with two bolts. The wire harness will have about 3" of slack for you to work with the speaker taking it out. There's plenty of depth under the mounts for extra stuff-age. Installing new speakers is the same... only reverse. You can chose to either splice the wires or use a speaker harness. It's the easiest speaker replacement I've ever had to do.

The doors are a little tricky. You need to drill out the rivets to remove the door speaker baskets. My recommendation is to use 1.5" MDF rings, mount them to the door where the speaker baskets were, then mount your speakers to the MDF rings. When working with MDF, make sure you pre-drill any holes you need.

 

sweet, any recommendations for the dash speakers? i dont need anything fancy and preferably under $60. Anything would be appreciated.

 

Crutch has Pioneer 4" 2 ways for $50. I'm looking into this as well.

 

Go with what Zman is checking into. The 4" Pioneers are pretty decent for drop ins. It will change the entire dynamics of the output with just that alone. Kicker makes some good 4" coax as well. If you are going to amp these later, you may want to consider the ohms loading you will need. Even a 50W outboard amp will sound better than most in dash units... something to keep in mind.

 

I just want a simple swap out of the dash speakers. I could just splice the better ones in easily.

Would that work?

 

Zman, I just bout those Pioneer 4" from Amazon.com They had it for $42.03 and free shipping. Here is a link:

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-G10...7756930&sr=8-1

 

I'm really considering buying those. I want to hear how they work out for you first since I'm leaving the country in a couple days and wouldn't get them if I ordered now anyway.

 

alright, ill reply to this post once they are in and installed. ive been reading reviews and many people love them. we will see

 

I just received order confirm so standby

 

You might also consider adding a resistor to ensure that the dash speakers don't overpower the door speakers. In the stock setup, the door and dash speakers are wired in series, so they need to split the wattage from the headunit.

Adding a resistor will ensure that the new speakers (with lower impedence) will get the same power as the old speakers.

I can explain more later...

 

ok, i may need to ask you about that once they are installed. if they sound all good to me, then I probably wont pester you about it. I just want something new, nothing too fancy, so im not a picky sound guy.

 

I bought those speakers from Best Buy for $51. Last ones, couldn't resist.

So I can't just wire up the positive and negative?

I really don't want to mess up anything.

Will my Pioneer AVH use the new speakers correctly?

 

I have no idea how to install them, I am assuming they come with some kind of instruction sheet. What does it look like?

 

Lift the plastic cover, and it two wires and two screws basically.

I'm tempted to go out in the cold and see for sure.

 

Yeah, I know about the plastic cover and I have removed it before to see what was underneath. i saw the two screws and the speaker, and i know that the ones i bought have four holes for screws. idk how they will screw in, but we shall see about that. also, idk how to detach those wires either. they look like they are soldered on the speaker somehow. i will also hope the instruction sheet will help with install.

 

Theres a plastic connector on the speaker wire. Disconnecting it from the tweet is ez.

But then, you have to cut off the connector (leave some wire length on it to replace later!) cut/splice a short length of wire and solder or crimp connector to re connect to your new speaks.

Or (not as secure) twist some wire onto the terminals of the car side connector, insulate and then solder/crimp connector to the new speakers. This way is non destructive, no damage/mods to wiring harness.

Do a search, I think there was a value posted for the resistor. The OEM tweets are high impedance...something odd like 11 ohms. The aftermarket replacement is typically 4 ohms. Meaning it will be louder. Good? Maybe. Maybe overpowering the door speakers.

Lots of stereo guys here! Ask!

Robert

 

You match positive to negative. There's a wiring diagram I can find to assist.
I used t-taps to connect mine so I wouldn't have to cut the OEM connector off.

You'll probably want to use the resistor, in which case, you just solder that to the lead wires that come with the speakers.