I have had experience with Fatmat, Dynomat and RAAMmat. Fatmat fell off after my car sat 3 days on CA sun. Dynomat was expensive but worked very well. RAAMmat I liked the best. Very easy to install and it sticks to my roof like the day I installed it in pretty extreme heat weather.

 

okay. i got it. i went to a few of the websites and checked things out. looks exactly like what i need to do to the wheel wells. i sware it sounds like my rear windows are down when i'm on the freeway.
does anyone have pics of the wells done, or "how-to" remove the rear wells?
thanks.

 

I used edead v3(liquid) on the floor of my xA, including the wheel well. All you have to do is paint it on. I used a whole gallon for the floor, wheel well, spare tire area and the door panels.
I don't know about the xB, but on my xA, I had to remove the back seats(unbot them), unbolt the hinges that are on the plastic panels, then remove some screws that hold plastic panels that covered the wheel well, then remove these by pulling on them.

If you are gonna use liquid, just put on a not to thick coat on the wells, and don't worry if some placese don't paint on, you take care of this on the second much thicker coat you apply.
I actually did 3 coats, and used as much as was left once the wheel wells were pretty much dried.
Makes a difference, but don't expect it to get rid of the noise completly. I still have another gallon left so I might do the doors and the take off the entire dash and paint under that and on the inside firewall.

 

I've got a good 20 ft^2 of mat and 2 gallons of edead for my xB waiting until we get some nice weather to install.

By the way, Edead liquid comes in black now.

 

It's actually gray. They say it is black, but it really isn't. That is the color I got.

 

im gonna do blue e dead. Hell who sees it anyhow. 20% discount and free shipping, sounds good to me.

 

 

How much does that cost and does it work?

 

it owrks pretty good
about $12 per roll
each roll is 6" by 25'

 

Hushmat is the product you want to use! You can cut it with childrens scissors, you don't have to roll it, sticks in negative degree wether and then there is the foam! Comes in 1/8th inch, 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch thicknesses, won't absorb water. Stuff is the best. So easy and carefree to use!

 

Where do you find this? What does it cost?

 

froogle it on google, or ebay

 

What kind of deadening material is already installed in the tC? Is it any good, I havent gotten my tC yet.

 

i found foam cubes in various panels of my xB
just loosely tossed in there

i think it was an attempt, lame but still an attempt

Good Luck

 

In the tC you will find a few pieces of mat randomly placed on various panels. In the rear panels there are foam pieces sitting loosely in there. THere is also foam on the door and rear interior panels. All lame as well.

 

I did my eDead project 2 weeks ago. Here's what I learned:

It takes a whole Saturday, and about 70 square feet of stuff (I used eDead v2). But it's worth it.

First, to answer your question about the rear wells...
Remove the seatbacks. They are held onto two hinges with bolts. Then remove the rear seat cushion. It just pops up from two places right under where your knees are when you're sitting on it. Yank it hard straight up. Then push it rearwards and take the foam-covered hoop off the hook at the back side. Remove the seatbelt bolts way down low. And remove the tie-downs. They require an allen wrench. Now the whole side panel can pop out. And yes, it is worthwhile. There is so much bare tin under there. I double-coated the whole well with eDead v2, and also did a layer on the flip side of the quarter panel, just behind the paint. Stick your hand way, way in there and cover it all. Hard to do in large patches. I was cutting 4x6 pieces at this point.

I also did double layers in the rear hatch (over the muffler!) and as far up the firewall as I could reach. Can't get too far up because of all the wires, hoses, pedals, etc. But go as far as you can. And double up under the center console because the exhaust runs under there.

The rest of the floor was done with a single layer. Then there are the doors. I did the front passenger door first, and the panel popped right out after the 2 screws and 1 screwclip were removed. The wiring unclipped easily, also. And after the plastic was peeled back there's complete access to all the tin. By the way, the best way to remove the saran wrap is to start peeling it off at a corner, then use a razor to slice the black tar stuff as you continue to peel. This way you don't cut the saran wrap and the black stuff sticks right back to itself when you're done.

I won't go into all the details of getting under the carpet. Understand that I figured it out as I went and I had never done it before. You'll understand when you start. But I will tell you that the center console is held on by a bolt under a small patch of carpet in the rear drink-holder.

The other three doors were a bit tougher because the wiring would not unclip for me. So I had my buddy hold the driver's door panel for 10 minutes. And the back doors can be done alone if you turn them to rest the rear point on the ground while you work. Skinny arms help.

For the rear hatch door, those plastic clips do not come out in one piece. I used a putty knife and a hammer to shear them off, then paid a buck each to replace them from the dealer. Maybe there's some tool in existence, but I didn't have one...

And put a patch of the stuff on the rear of your license plate to stop it from buzzing. Nothing says "amateur" like a license plate buzzing to the beat.

And put a small patch on the inside of the gas door. It will open and close so much nicer.

Anyway, on to the results. They are good. And so I would know exactly what all this work accomplished, I did before and after measurements with a sound level meter. (A weighting, if you care).
At idle, the noise floor was reduced by 5 dB, from 73 to 68.
At 45 mph, noise was reduced by 5 dB, from 82 to 77.
At 65 mph, noise was reduced by 9 dB, from 87 to 78.
At 80 mph, noise was reduced by 6 dB, from 88 to 82.

I'm sure it would have been even better if I had the gumption to take off the dashboard and do the entire firewall with a double layer. But I didn't. And I'm sure that removing the headliner and painting on a coat of V3 would make it even better. I'll edit this post when I do that. Overall I'm very happy with the results. And really happy with the quiet thud my doors make when they're closed. Makes the whole car seem more expensive.

 

geez thats so much. id rather just do the trunk, i always have music on so road noise isnt a thought to me

 

I just started my sound deadening yesterday......used about 20ft^2 of some sound proofing insulation for a locomotive cab......since i work at a Locomotive rebuilding company.....I got a "special price"

 

That's because your car is more expensive! good to hear though.

 

Hushmat usually can be found at Stereo shops, truck and custom shops.
www.hushmat.com