Subwoofer pop when I turn the car on and off - WTF?
Everytime I turn the car on or off I get a ridiculous pop from the sub. I know there is a reverse power spike everytime the current is turned off but why does it come out of the sub? It will do this consistently, even if the HU doesn't get turned on it will pop. Is there a place I can be a reverse polarity diode or something? Please help!
Get an inline swith for the remote wire and turn it off on your own. I dont have this problem with my stock HU. But a friend with an STI does. He put an inline switch and just turns it off. I have an inline on mine to make the wife happy. Its cheap and easy.
Ahh ok, I guess I could have elaborated...I have the sub adapter plug from Norcal scions, I have a 1 farad capacitor in the trunk next to the amp. I have both of them running on the same ground under the space tire (could possibly not be grounded well enough) I just ran the remote wire off the subplug so I wouldn't expect there to be any pop unless I had done something wrong. I will consider the inline switch but I would expect it to do the same thing when I turn the switch off, right?
This will sound stupid but worth a mention.
Mine does that too, BUT it ONLY does it if my cell phone charger is plugged in WITHOUT the phone attached. With the phone attached or when you unplug the charger completely it's all good. I know, its wierd but true.........
Mine does that too, BUT it ONLY does it if my cell phone charger is plugged in WITHOUT the phone attached. With the phone attached or when you unplug the charger completely it's all good. I know, its wierd but true.........
Wierd! Mine does it no matter whats going on, I dont even have to start the car, just on and off several times in a row and it will pop each time, I did this to confirm it was the reverse voltage spike. Now I just need to know how to eliminate it. I know its common but preventable.
is there a gain **** on the sub? the stock tC sub has a **** and if it is set all the way up then it will make a popping sound like you describe. there is even a tsb about it ;P so check if you have a ****, if you do make sure it isnt set all the way up. if not then do as the others describe.
I dont think its anything you did wrong. I would say just do an inline swithc. But someone else might have more insight.
trebor: probably just feedback form the cellphone.
trebor: probably just feedback form the cellphone.
Thank you! I got a repsonse from Norcalscion, the problem is my amp, I need to put a diode in-line with the remote wire. All I need to do now is figure out where and how.
This tends to happen in installs that you use a factory deck in. I have been installing for 13 years there is an easy fix though and you dont use a swith to turn it on and off. you can use a timmed relay to turn on and off the amp you can pick this uo at any good electronics shop not radio shack or you can buy a remote trun on swith that can be bought at any great mom and pop shop DEI makes one 5555 and amp makes one schoche makes one ect.... if you cant find one i can help you find one.
I would think that you only have two, no three options.
1) Buy an aftermarket stereo(These will have an amp remote wire)
2) Buy turn on/off delays(commonly know as pop eliminators, I'm not sure if these will work for you though, they are designed for pops coming from you amps own circuitry)
3) Buy a Remote sensing trigger(It senses when there is power through the speaker wires and then supplies a 12v turn on for your amplifier. This is not the same as just wiring into your ignition switch. Most shops don't have these so It will prolly have to be ordered for around $30.)
I would try #3 first, then #2, I really doubt #2 will work for your situation.
Any pops beyond that should only be coming from you amplifier(a #2 situation).
1) Buy an aftermarket stereo(These will have an amp remote wire)
2) Buy turn on/off delays(commonly know as pop eliminators, I'm not sure if these will work for you though, they are designed for pops coming from you amps own circuitry)
3) Buy a Remote sensing trigger(It senses when there is power through the speaker wires and then supplies a 12v turn on for your amplifier. This is not the same as just wiring into your ignition switch. Most shops don't have these so It will prolly have to be ordered for around $30.)
I would try #3 first, then #2, I really doubt #2 will work for your situation.
Any pops beyond that should only be coming from you amplifier(a #2 situation).
Where can I find info on your Norcal Scion part? The problem shouldn't be your amp since you said it does it with your stereo turned off. Really sounds like it's wired through your switched wired(ignition).
Norcalscion.com is their website I couldn't find the sub plug link though, this is one of their auctions on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-...spagenameZWDVW
Originally Posted by trebor
I would think that you only have two, no three options.
1) Buy an aftermarket stereo(These will have an amp remote wire)
2) Buy turn on/off delays(commonly know as pop eliminators, I'm not sure if these will work for you though, they are designed for pops coming from you amps own circuitry)
3) Buy a Remote sensing trigger(It senses when there is power through the speaker wires and then supplies a 12v turn on for your amplifier. This is not the same as just wiring into your ignition switch. Most shops don't have these so It will prolly have to be ordered for around $30.)
I would try #3 first, then #2, I really doubt #2 will work for your situation.
Any pops beyond that should only be coming from you amplifier(a #2 situation).
1) Buy an aftermarket stereo(These will have an amp remote wire)
2) Buy turn on/off delays(commonly know as pop eliminators, I'm not sure if these will work for you though, they are designed for pops coming from you amps own circuitry)
3) Buy a Remote sensing trigger(It senses when there is power through the speaker wires and then supplies a 12v turn on for your amplifier. This is not the same as just wiring into your ignition switch. Most shops don't have these so It will prolly have to be ordered for around $30.)
I would try #3 first, then #2, I really doubt #2 will work for your situation.
Any pops beyond that should only be coming from you amplifier(a #2 situation).
If it was truly your amps fault then it wouldn't do anything at all(no sound, no pops) when you turn your car off as long as your stereo was off first. You've already said though that it does still do it whether your stereo is on or off. This means that your amp is wired into the switched wire(thats how your adapter is hooked up). You can double check this if you want by turning ON your ignition, turn OFF your radio at the deck, then physically looking at your amps power light. If the light is ON(even though your stereo is off) then it is hooked up through the switched wire.
I'm no engineer, but its seems like if you could have you would have. I only know just enough to be dangerous... :D(Well, maybe alittle more but still no engineer).
I pointed you to a really inexpensive solution for those of us who aren't engineers. If you really wanted to save money in the first place you coulda just spliced into your stereos wires like your "adapter" does and saved fifty bucks. That's what I did. I'm still using the OEM deck too.
Maybe if your lucky, some electronics engineer will find this and tell you whats needed to build one. Good luck!!!
I pointed you to a really inexpensive solution for those of us who aren't engineers. If you really wanted to save money in the first place you coulda just spliced into your stereos wires like your "adapter" does and saved fifty bucks. That's what I did. I'm still using the OEM deck too.
Maybe if your lucky, some electronics engineer will find this and tell you whats needed to build one. Good luck!!!







