Karl_Hungus

hey

this has been discussed here before, but for those who are trying to reduce road and exhaust noise in their xB's, a small amount of dynamatting can help alot. I was too lazy to do the impressive dynamatting projects that others have shown on this site.

I've done only the one layer on the hatch floor, rear wheel wells, parts of the rear quarter panel, and the rear doors, and this was sufficient to hear a substantial reduction. The road noise (esp on wet pavement) and exhaust noise are much reduced, which I find helpful on longer road trips. I have the TRD exhaust, which used to drone a bit too much on the highway, but now its a low, um, purr.

Surprisingly, I found the rear doors to have the greatest effect. I'm still debating doing the rear hatch and front doors.

Oh, not that it matters, but I used B-Quiet Extreme, and it was easy to use, and sticks well. Almost too well...

kh

Newtmaker

Where did you get the B-Quiet Extreme?

Walt

Karl_Hungus

www.b-quiet.com

superjeer

Cool, thanks.

Pimpe_Ok

about how many squear feet is are xb's on the inside?? including door panels all 5? plus headliner??

kkawana

ok..heres what i roughly calculated out and posted back in november.. havent double checked my #s but think its a good estimate...and this is if you cover every availible inch not counting glass:
Well.. for the xB at least, using the wheel base of 98.4" for the est length of passenger compartment, 58.5" for height and 66.5" for width,
1 side = 5756.4" or 39.98sq ft figure 1/2 that is glass anyways so would probably be close to covering both driver and passenger sides.
rear hatch/trucnk is 66.5" x 58.5" = 3890.25 sq in or 27.02sq ft (again 1/2 is glass so other 1/2 could be used for firewall?)
floor or roof 66.5" x 98.4" = 6543.6 sq in. or 45.44 sq ft. .. unless you added a sun roof no need to account for glass.

for the legnth i used the wheel base as est
height i used total height - ground clearance
width nothin to account for.. (all measurements pulled from that official specs of the car)

Karl_Hungus

Just to give some #'s: For the aforementioned sound deadening, I used ~ 20-22 sq. ft.

I didn't cover every square inch, because as far as I understand it, you're just trying to mass-load the various panels, and reduce their resonance quality a bit at the same time; you're not trying to "blanket" the sound so much. There are a few pieces of fabric-like stuff from the factory glued to the center of the inside of the outer door skin, and also on the rear quarter panel, that I'm guessing were put there to do just that.

Other mundane notes:
--I only did the inside of the outer panels (doors and quarter panels.)

--The B-Quiet Extreme doesn't smell much at all. Though I have had a stufed up nose for what seems like a year, and can't smell all that well.

--Everything comes apart, and snaps back together, really easily. At least, everything I took out (rear seat, lower rear panels, rear carrpet stuff, rear door panels). It's nicely designed.

totallyboardz

Here is my attempt at sound deadening my xb. The DC exhaust was a bit too much on long trips (only had one so far), but now it's not a problem. I used fatmat which I've heard is comparable to dynamat. Seemed to work good for me.

kkawana

holy snikies.... looks like some1 poured aluminum foil in there..... wow... must be cheaper than dynamat... for that much coverage... i hope...
did you take out those styroffoam pieces in the front seat foot areas? or just go over them??

totallyboardz

I went over the styrofoam in the front. I was going to take it all out, but my main concern was in the rear, so I just went over everything up front. I still need to do the rear doors and the hatch, but I'm going to take out the wiper assembly before I do that.
100 sq/ft of fatmat is about $100 plus shipping. I think I paid about 130-140 shipped to PA. Not to bad and it definitely cut down the noise from my DC exhaust.
Here is the other reason for all the sound deadener. The two 2 12" Cadence Subs aren't in there yet, but you can get the idea.

badtouch

i ran 2 full layers of edead 1.6se in the entire car. doors hatch floorboards fender wells and pillars. it came to roughly 100sq ft. i also used edead v3, the blue paint on stuff, on the backside of all interior door and hatch panels. you can hear a pin drop driving down the freeway. even on 19s which create alot of road noise. best thing i ever did to my scion.

Karl_Hungus

See, those fellers are bad men! Very nicely done deadening. Actually, while you're removing panels & stuff, you might as well do the full installs like they did, unless you a) didn't buy enough, and b) needed to drive the car in the interim. not that I did that.

One question: Was the rear hatch panel hard to take out without busting the plastic pins? Meaning, should I run over to the dealer to pick up some replacements beforehand? Thanks.

kh

saintjohnson

I don't get alot of problems, and I don't have 19" rims, so what/where is the minimum areas that I need to sound dampen?

mandos

I'm driving my car right now w/ no interior ;)

kkawana

pannel popper will help... some come out ez..some dont... not sure if its a set price or not.. but went to my local dealer to get some replacement ones..or at least price them out... they're runnin just under 2$ a each..... i was hopin for like a bag 10+ for like 5$ or somthng... dang plastic pieces anywho

Notacop

we need a sticky with links to each sound deadening install, there is a thread from me with 120 sqft of v1 SE and 2+ gallons of V3 edead going into my scion


I am very happy with the results, I am going to go over the hatch more since I still hear alot of exhaust noise now that I put my borla dual catback on there. I am going to paint a few more coats of v3 over everything in the hatch, stuff the hatch with polyfill (to stop resonance within the hatch) and seal it all up with V1SE, that should cut down some more (currently there is 2 coats of v3 over everything I could reach inside the hatch)

rcstprez

Your setup looks great. Are those enclosures on top of the spare tire cover/shelf or was it removed?

badtouch

dont know what the minimum is. it all depends how quiet you want your car to beand how much time you want to put into it. if your looking to do the least amount possible do fenderwells. . .but to do those you have to take out rear seat. and if the rear seat is out you might as well do the rear floor and enclosure also. but like i said its worth it when you can hear your stereo on 2 volume instead of 25 :D

badtouch

One question: Was the rear hatch panel hard to take out without busting the plastic pins? Meaning, should I run over to the dealer to pick up some replacements beforehand? Thanks

i just used a 2 pronged steak poker to pry them up and didnt break any at all. and if you look at my top picture you can see the wiper motor laying on the black plastic lol. just went to lowes and got a 1 inch plastic plug out of hardware and caulkd and sealed the hole in back looks pretty clean as you can see in bottom pic.

aireck

hmm .. i might try this.... anything i should know when i am removing stuff???
or its pretty basic?