Springs but not shocks..asking to blow shocks?
#1
Springs but not shocks..asking to blow shocks?
I see many people on these forums purchasing springs, but not shocks or struts to go with them.
Isn't that asking to blow shocks in 15k miles or so? Seeing as how the stock shocks are not designed to cope with the new springs?
Isn't that asking to blow shocks in 15k miles or so? Seeing as how the stock shocks are not designed to cope with the new springs?
#2
Re: Springs but not shicks..asking to blow shocks?
Originally Posted by BeQuietAndDrive
Seeing as how the stock shocks are not designed to cope with the new springs?
#3
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Re: Springs but not shicks..asking to blow shocks?
Originally Posted by BeQuietAndDrive
I see many people on these forums purchasing springs, but not shocks or struts to go with them.
Isn't that asking to blow shocks in 15k miles or so? Seeing as how the stock shocks are not designed to cope with the new springs?
Isn't that asking to blow shocks in 15k miles or so? Seeing as how the stock shocks are not designed to cope with the new springs?
#5
Don't be cheap, get the trd shocks with the springs. There designed to match each other in every way. From spring rates to dampnening. You can go without them but I can guarantee down the road they will need to be replaced.
#6
Even if you get the TRD shocks, they to will need to be replaced . Its a item that will need to be replaced. So would the extra cost of the TRD shocks, out weigh replacing stock like ones 10,000 miles sooner? This is just a guess, the stock could out last the TRD depending on many factores.
#7
Damn, Chucksu, you took the words right out of my mouth.
And why replace the brand new stock struts? Replace them after they've worn. 15K - 25K is better than them sitting with my other stock parts forever with no miles on them...
For the cost of the first set of TRDs, I can probably get replacements twice, at least.
And why replace the brand new stock struts? Replace them after they've worn. 15K - 25K is better than them sitting with my other stock parts forever with no miles on them...
For the cost of the first set of TRDs, I can probably get replacements twice, at least.
#8
I'm going to give the stock dampers a shot with the Tein s-techs. When they prematurely blow out (which they will), I'll probably go with whichever aftermarket lifetime warranty dampers are out on the market. Hopefully we will see some non-adjustable offerings from Koni, Tokico, Bilstein, H&R, Eibach, etc in the not so distant future.
#10
Originally Posted by ChefRaekwon
Also the TRD struts should never need to be replaced
#11
Better yet... just save up the cost of the springs & TRD struts & installation... save some more, get some coilovers and install them yourself. I installed my first springs... very easy, just followed the tech section here. The next set of springs and my current coiloveres I paid to have installed. I'm lazy now...
#13
2 things have advanced the "don't use stock shocks/struts with lowering springs" thought.
1: Installing lowering springs on older stock shocks/sturts. Shocks and struts operate in a limited range on the piston and shaft, over time wear patterns and damage develope and when you install lowering springs you will move the area of operation to a different part of the shaft that may have scratctes from dirt/debris and the seal will now begin to leak. Once some of the oil leaks out it's easy to hit a pot hole or bump and bottom the shock out causing more damage. If the stock struts/shocks have a bunch of miles on them they may just be worn enough to bottom out anyway.
2. Installing lowering springs without a bump stop to prevent metal to metal contact between the strut housing and the strut mount or bottoming out the piston in the strut housing-causing severe damage. Ensuring there is a bump stop installed will prevent this. Driving carefully will also prevent it. If you abuse your car you will damage parts... and it's not the MFGs fault.
Aftermarket shocks/struts with a shorter body are necessary if you go really low to prevent bottoming out in normal driving. If you want to go that low you had better know what you are doing so you don't just screw things up.
I have had Eibachs on my xA for nearly a year and 18,000 mi., it handles as well today as it did when I installed them.
ken
1: Installing lowering springs on older stock shocks/sturts. Shocks and struts operate in a limited range on the piston and shaft, over time wear patterns and damage develope and when you install lowering springs you will move the area of operation to a different part of the shaft that may have scratctes from dirt/debris and the seal will now begin to leak. Once some of the oil leaks out it's easy to hit a pot hole or bump and bottom the shock out causing more damage. If the stock struts/shocks have a bunch of miles on them they may just be worn enough to bottom out anyway.
2. Installing lowering springs without a bump stop to prevent metal to metal contact between the strut housing and the strut mount or bottoming out the piston in the strut housing-causing severe damage. Ensuring there is a bump stop installed will prevent this. Driving carefully will also prevent it. If you abuse your car you will damage parts... and it's not the MFGs fault.
Aftermarket shocks/struts with a shorter body are necessary if you go really low to prevent bottoming out in normal driving. If you want to go that low you had better know what you are doing so you don't just screw things up.
I have had Eibachs on my xA for nearly a year and 18,000 mi., it handles as well today as it did when I installed them.
ken
#14
I don't buy the "Save money from double installation" theory. IMO one of great things about modifying your car is doing the work yourself with some friends if possible. I hate it when i ask someone what they're using in the car or what wheels they are and they respond "I don't know, i bought the car like that". Scionlife is a big big place! I'm sure there are many people in everyone's respective area that would be willing to meet a new friend and give them a hand. Spring are easy to install. Springs and struts are even easier to install!
#15
Originally Posted by SnyperP
I don't buy the "Save money from double installation" theory.
#16
not like the spring or sock install is difficult on the car, you dont even need a spring compressor...and if your gonna buy shocks why buy trds....theres much better out there, and if your gonna go this far might as well spend a little more and get a full coilover setup
brent
brent
#17
Originally Posted by tinybigrig
why buy trds....theres much better out there, and if your gonna go this far might as well spend a little more and get a full coilover setup
brent
brent
#18
Erm... I dunno who makes the TRD shocks, but my guess is Toyota said, 'Hey Tokico (or whom ever), make us a shock for TRD with these specifications.' and that is how the shock was produced.
To say one is better based soley on a name is pure ignorance.
To say one is better based soley on a name is pure ignorance.
#19
Guys,
I email Tein to ask on what shocks/struts to be for their spring. Here is the answer....
Kong,
We R&D and develop our lowering springs to be compatible with the OEM shocks.
We perform the R&D testing this way because that is the only constant variable on
all vehicles. There are a lot of other suspension manufactures out there and it would be impossible for us to find out all the different damping force that their shocks provide. If you have anymore questions please feel free to contact us. Thank you for your interest in Tein High Performance Suspension.
Best regards,
Sales
Staff @ TEIN USA INC.
9798 Firestone Blvd.
Downey, CA 90241
Phone: (562)861-9161
Fax: (562)861-9171
I guess springs work on OEM stock shocks/struts afterall ..
I email Tein to ask on what shocks/struts to be for their spring. Here is the answer....
Kong,
We R&D and develop our lowering springs to be compatible with the OEM shocks.
We perform the R&D testing this way because that is the only constant variable on
all vehicles. There are a lot of other suspension manufactures out there and it would be impossible for us to find out all the different damping force that their shocks provide. If you have anymore questions please feel free to contact us. Thank you for your interest in Tein High Performance Suspension.
Best regards,
Sales
Staff @ TEIN USA INC.
9798 Firestone Blvd.
Downey, CA 90241
Phone: (562)861-9161
Fax: (562)861-9171
I guess springs work on OEM stock shocks/struts afterall ..
#20
I was inspired by Kong's idea to ask someone who knows instead of us all debating it. Here's the response I got from Jeff at GoldLine:
Sounds like we were on the right track from the beginning...
Gold Line (along with most other spring companies) design their product to
work with factory shocks/struts. Not to say that overall ride/handling
quality cant be improved by going to an aftermarket shock/strut.
work with factory shocks/struts. Not to say that overall ride/handling
quality cant be improved by going to an aftermarket shock/strut.