View Poll Results: DO you have this rust problem
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Rust found on some Scion xB doors
12-30-2006, 04:43 AM
#161
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 1,168
My box has 1500 miles on it. No rust yet. I saw this post before I completely repainted my PW to custom kandies. While I was doing the paint work I applied a very excellent rust sealer convertor (POR-15)before painting these corners. I hope it doesnt rust out of the seam, since Toyota surely would not want to warrant my custom paint that I applied
A couple people on this thread have made comment about rust convertors. I have been restoring old rusty cars for years and had tried many forms of rust neutralizer/convertor (extend, nutrarust, navel jellies, etc etc etc.). There is one product that stands out above the rest. It is called POR-15. I actually ran a side by side comparison of POR-15 and 3 other products including Extend and Nutrarust and some napa rust convertor on a rusty van roof outside behind my shop. None of these products is truely designed for direct exposure to weather (and particularly sun). The Extend and the POR-15 looked pretty good through 1 year (the other 2 were completely gone). After 1.5 years the Extend area was showing significant rust and was gone after 2 years. After 2 years the POR-15 was still fully intact. 3-4 years later a good bit of the effect of the POR-15 was still evident however it had pretty much failed after this long. I Highly recommend POR-15 for all your neutralization and rust coating needs. Follow all instructions closely, especially recoating instructions as once it is dry it is hard as granite and very hard to get other paints to adhere to. (be extra careful to not get any rust oxide in the can (it will convert the can, acts as a catalyst for the product)...and to make sure the entire lid is spotless before resealing the can (or you may never remove the lid again....a sandwich bag laid on the lid of an open can before sealing it is a good idea as well even if it is spotless)).
The product can be purchased from http://www.por15.com/ as well as a number of resellers. Try it it is awesome.
A couple people on this thread have made comment about rust convertors. I have been restoring old rusty cars for years and had tried many forms of rust neutralizer/convertor (extend, nutrarust, navel jellies, etc etc etc.). There is one product that stands out above the rest. It is called POR-15. I actually ran a side by side comparison of POR-15 and 3 other products including Extend and Nutrarust and some napa rust convertor on a rusty van roof outside behind my shop. None of these products is truely designed for direct exposure to weather (and particularly sun). The Extend and the POR-15 looked pretty good through 1 year (the other 2 were completely gone). After 1.5 years the Extend area was showing significant rust and was gone after 2 years. After 2 years the POR-15 was still fully intact. 3-4 years later a good bit of the effect of the POR-15 was still evident however it had pretty much failed after this long. I Highly recommend POR-15 for all your neutralization and rust coating needs. Follow all instructions closely, especially recoating instructions as once it is dry it is hard as granite and very hard to get other paints to adhere to. (be extra careful to not get any rust oxide in the can (it will convert the can, acts as a catalyst for the product)...and to make sure the entire lid is spotless before resealing the can (or you may never remove the lid again....a sandwich bag laid on the lid of an open can before sealing it is a good idea as well even if it is spotless)).
The product can be purchased from http://www.por15.com/ as well as a number of resellers. Try it it is awesome.
01-02-2007, 12:14 AM
#162
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Scion Evolution
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by TerribleTed
My box has 1500 miles on it. No rust yet. I saw this post before I completely repainted my PW to custom kandies. While I was doing the paint work I applied a very excellent rust sealer convertor (POR-15)before painting these corners. I hope it doesnt rust out of the seam, since Toyota surely would not want to warrant my custom paint that I applied
A couple people on this thread have made comment about rust convertors. I have been restoring old rusty cars for years and had tried many forms of rust neutralizer/convertor (extend, nutrarust, navel jellies, etc etc etc.). There is one product that stands out above the rest. It is called POR-15. I actually ran a side by side comparison of POR-15 and 3 other products including Extend and Nutrarust and some napa rust convertor on a rusty van roof outside behind my shop. None of these products is truely designed for direct exposure to weather (and particularly sun). The Extend and the POR-15 looked pretty good through 1 year (the other 2 were completely gone). After 1.5 years the Extend area was showing significant rust and was gone after 2 years. After 2 years the POR-15 was still fully intact. 3-4 years later a good bit of the effect of the POR-15 was still evident however it had pretty much failed after this long. I Highly recommend POR-15 for all your neutralization and rust coating needs. Follow all instructions closely, especially recoating instructions as once it is dry it is hard as granite and very hard to get other paints to adhere to. (be extra careful to not get any rust oxide in the can (it will convert the can, acts as a catalyst for the product)...and to make sure the entire lid is spotless before resealing the can (or you may never remove the lid again....a sandwich bag laid on the lid of an open can before sealing it is a good idea as well even if it is spotless)).
The product can be purchased from http://www.por15.com/ as well as a number of resellers. Try it it is awesome.
A couple people on this thread have made comment about rust convertors. I have been restoring old rusty cars for years and had tried many forms of rust neutralizer/convertor (extend, nutrarust, navel jellies, etc etc etc.). There is one product that stands out above the rest. It is called POR-15. I actually ran a side by side comparison of POR-15 and 3 other products including Extend and Nutrarust and some napa rust convertor on a rusty van roof outside behind my shop. None of these products is truely designed for direct exposure to weather (and particularly sun). The Extend and the POR-15 looked pretty good through 1 year (the other 2 were completely gone). After 1.5 years the Extend area was showing significant rust and was gone after 2 years. After 2 years the POR-15 was still fully intact. 3-4 years later a good bit of the effect of the POR-15 was still evident however it had pretty much failed after this long. I Highly recommend POR-15 for all your neutralization and rust coating needs. Follow all instructions closely, especially recoating instructions as once it is dry it is hard as granite and very hard to get other paints to adhere to. (be extra careful to not get any rust oxide in the can (it will convert the can, acts as a catalyst for the product)...and to make sure the entire lid is spotless before resealing the can (or you may never remove the lid again....a sandwich bag laid on the lid of an open can before sealing it is a good idea as well even if it is spotless)).
The product can be purchased from http://www.por15.com/ as well as a number of resellers. Try it it is awesome.
01-04-2007, 10:17 PM
#163
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 562
I have been using this from a Friend and helps with the rust perfectly. I love it. https://www.shaklee.net/now/product/00430 I run a auto detail shop and we use this all the time for clients with rust and for the rims. Does wonders.
02-11-2007, 09:02 PM
#165
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ATL,GA
Posts: 16
cool thing I found this post
Atl,Ga
2006 polar white xB
11k miles
RUST AT TOP OF DOOR!!!!!
i'm not a body man ,but seams like a little bit of that flexible filler that a lot of car makers use would have cured this problem before it ever happend,,I suppose it got over looked?????
Atl,Ga
2006 polar white xB
11k miles
RUST AT TOP OF DOOR!!!!!
i'm not a body man ,but seams like a little bit of that flexible filler that a lot of car makers use would have cured this problem before it ever happend,,I suppose it got over looked?????
03-28-2007, 06:26 PM
#167
Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: SW Virginia
Posts: 42
Found a small rust stain on the passenger door corner on my 05´, I´m in VA. I put clear silicone over all the seams on all the corners, because it looks like that´s where water is getting in or collecting. BTW what under the tape on the pillars? Paint? and how hard is it to remove? Mine has some small nicks in it.
03-28-2007, 09:23 PM
#168
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 1,168
Originally Posted by skoobus
Found a small rust stain on the passenger door corner on my 05´, I´m in VA. I put clear silicone over all the seams on all the corners, because it looks like that´s where water is getting in or collecting. BTW what under the tape on the pillars? Paint? and how hard is it to remove? Mine has some small nicks in it.
The black on the door posts is a vinyl overlay. It can be readily remove with a strong finger nail and a heat gun or hair dryer. Heat and pick and pull. The cars are painted body color under the overlay. Be advised these overlays are expensive. They list bewteen $45 and 75 per section so do not remove it all unless you are sure you are never going back (or will do it another way paint perhaps). Honda sells similar sections of similar material for their cars for around $10 per piece dunno why the Scion ones are so high.
04-19-2007, 02:13 AM
#170
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 2,208
i found rust but not in the place mentioned. in the drivers door "jamb" - there is a bolt looking thing connected to the door that sides into this hole on the body itself - there is a small ring of rust around this area. im sorry i cant describe the area but it's basically where the door moves on when you open or close ur door. it's not a ton of rust but it's a "wet looking" brown/red colored ring around taht area.
- sh00k
- sh00k
04-19-2007, 02:38 AM
#171
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Fail, INC
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ico, Arkansas
Posts: 4,052
well that thing isn't supposed to be dry so to speak in the first place, you need to put some white lithium greese on it, and the otheres in each door, and all 10 hinges, that will help keep rust out and your doors open easier
04-19-2007, 02:49 AM
#172
Yup, hinges and all the rest should be lubed. Now if I could only find some of the white lithium grease we used to use on some equipment when I was in the USAF: The white lithium grease was dissolved in a solvent of some sort that had a rather fantastic evaporation rate. You dripped/poured/brushed/wiped the thin slop onto/into whatever you were greasing and it got right into everything just like a super thin oil, then turned into a nice thick grease as the solvent evaporated. The fumes were nasty, but once it was back to being just grease, it was a fantastic lube.
Wish I had a few cans of that stuff, but I can't even remember the name.
Tom
Wish I had a few cans of that stuff, but I can't even remember the name.
Tom
04-19-2007, 11:37 AM
#173
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Tiverton, RI
Posts: 1,971
I used to take some general purpose grease and disolve it in gasoline then use it to lube my motorcycle drive chain but that was when gasoline would evaporate. You should be able to find lithium grease in a squirt can - check a marine supply store.
04-25-2007, 11:01 PM
#174
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northeast USA
Posts: 427
Spraying any sort of grease into the hinges makes a big mess due to the overspray. Then dirt starts sticking to all that overspray - Oy! I have a small 1/4 oz. squeeze bottle with a pointed tip filled with 30 weight motor oil. I use it to squeeze a drop or two into each pivot point of the hinge. My hinges are rust-free, and look as clean as the day I bougt the car.
