If you take a look at the 2nd photo, you can see the black area on the stock exhaust is not the size of the exhaust manifold's tubing.

Can anyone confirm if the soot marks on the stock manifold are actually the size of the exhaust ports on the cylinder head or if the gasket is just oversized around the ports?

 

I couldn't get a good picture of the head that showed the holes as far as size or shape but from the soot on the stock manifold it looks like the holes coming out of the head are pretty good sized.

The headers pipes are actually slightly bigger than the stock manifold and like stew pointed out, it's the soot that makes it not look that way.

I didn't want a 2 or 2.25 inch header for fear of losing low end but the sake that the headers tubes are all the same length, bent more cleanly and the collector if farther away makes the flow much better.

 

look closely at this pic for the diameter of the stock, you can see the inside of the stock one better and notice it is smaller than the ebay one... you'll see the rusted outside, the black sutt ring, then the pip diameter on the inside... you just have to stare at it for a min, then you'll notice...

nice find...

 

Now that my car is "learning" to use the header I am getting a lot more pull from 3000rpm up-it's pretty cool!

 

Hows the coating holding up so far?

 

I gotta get me one of those. Thanks for the info.

 

GREAT JOB!

Can you give me anymore info about those exhaust flange bolts?

Where did you get them? I cant seem to find what you have a picture of.

 

I didn't get a photo-they were from baxter auto-the sku number on the back plus the brand should get you pointed in the right direction

looks like this

http://www.carpartsmit.com/images/do...ro/ES72143.jpg

 

Thanks for the information.

If I put the stock number in that is listed on the package you have a pic of in the Baxter website. 3 things come up with that number.

And the obvious one mentions that it is for Chrysler. Is that the one I get?



or are any of these any good?

http://search.ebay.com/exhaust-sprin...Z1QQsofocusZbs

 

I guess the question I should ask is what is the size?

 

It's weird because one box said chrysler and one said dodge-exact same part. The length of the section that is smooth is the most important one so make sure in person that is is the same as the stock one.

It is also advisable to put a washer against the header flange to make sure the shoulder doesn't start to push into the hole in the header flange. I will try to a diagram later today to help explain. I did one with a washer and one without and it seems to be working fine both ways.

 

Pieced together diarama of how the bolts go-it's actually easy to do. I used a washer on 1 but not on the other and it's fine






The ceramic is slightly peeling but only at that one point and it is stainless steel so it shouldn't rust or decolor. It still stays cool too.

 

What about just using a regular bolt instead of the one with the shoulder on it?
Also, do the original bolts stay tight in the head or should lock washers or lock tight be used?

 

I'd highly suggest locking nuts. The spring does provide a good deal of tension, so it shouldn't be a problem, but for an extra few cents and state of mind, I'd use nylock.

 

Never bolt an exhaust directly together-the engine needs to have the ability to rock seperately-you will end up cracking the welds at the head or flange.

The shoulder bottoms out against the header flange and the spring provides the tension holding the flanges close and giving an exhaust seal but allowing movement.

The bolts I bouth come with a flat piece of metal with a nut built in and then the brass one tightens against it to lock the threads (hence being brass it contorts and locks itself in place)

 

^^Yeah, but I suggested just using regular long bolts instead of the ones you used. I'll still use the springs so it should be OK.

 

I'm gonna tackle this same project as soon as my header shows up. I already pulled the heat shield and sprayed the bolts down with penetrating fluid. Now I wait.

 

Mine came off just fine-make sure you have a regular and a deep 12 mm socket for the head bolts/nuts.

Good luck with it.

 

Update!

The header is working just fine-coating is flaking a little bit more but for the price???/

There was a chrome one one ebay as well that was actually being made by a real company but sold by one of those cheap dealers and I looked it up and the quality was very good but I figured by the time I bought the header (it was like $75 for it and shipping) and then bought header wrap (another $15) I could just get this and header wrap it later if need be.

I will try to get some pics later.

 

Flaking a little more-some header wrap down the road probably