TOZTR

So here's my deal...

We'll start with an intro to my car, I have a 2006 xB with 73,000 miles. I change the oil every 5,000mi. with Mobil-1 and use 87 Octane fuel. I do NOT race the vehicle. It is driven about 50/50 city/highway.
My car was running extremely lean, leaking exhaust, and running horrible. It also intermittently did not start no matter the temperature. Keep in mind, there were NO CEL codes. I brought it into the dealership to check the exhaust, figuring it could fix most of the problem and they found the exhaust manifold gasket was defective and replaced it. They then decided to rip apart the block after doing a compression test and noticing a 65% compression loss in cylinders 1 and 3. They saw that the piston rings were bad and needed replaced... with NO SIGNS OF ABUSE TO ANYTHING.
After replacing the piston rings, the cylinders held compression... until the motor got hot. The dealership then had to call out Toyota Extra Care to assess the situation, and found that the two cylinders were warped WITH NO SIGNS OF ABUSE.
A whole new short block was then ordered... everything on the bottom end was new. After reassembling the motor, the vehicle was STILL running extremely lean. The service manager then ordered the head to be dismantled, and after close inspection, it was found that EVERY valve was bent. I have NEVER used any high octane fuel, octane boosters, or anything like that. There was also no signs of collision of the pistons and valves.
The top end was then completely rebuilt, everything was re-assembled, and I finally received my vehicle back from the dealership after 32 DAYS!!!
I was lucky I purchased the Extra Care Platinum warranty, however they refuse to pay for the entire rental. Now I am stuck with having to pay for 22 days of a rental car when it is not my fault the vehicle is broke.
Now, the vehicle STILL does not start sometimes. It will crank for a while and never catch. I have had the coil packs tested, the spark plugs replaced, mass airflow sensor cleaned and checked, all by the dealership.
I hate this car now. I owe $11,000 still on it, and since the economy is so bad I can't even get a new loan.
Does anyone know what might be going on? I am NOT a n00b to cars, I have built 2 show cars and have had everything checked I could think of. I would have taken everything apart myself if it weren't for the extended warranty.

If someone could please help, I would greatly appreciate it.

Bill

saddlesore

runnning lean,,, ... thinking.....
no blockage on fuel lines in tank? (like a piece of paper,rubber or what not intermittantly blocking the fuel pickup? or fuel pump losing it's prime (kind of like "backflushing a beer into the bottle"?)
OR.. the pressure sensor @ the fuel pump (engine side) is faulty and not holding a steady fuel pressure to the engine.

or... the fuel/tank vent/return to the tank is causing a vacuum in the tank, thereby starving the fuel pump = lean fuel supply/burn rate?
and that would be a cause for a "vapor lock" situation..IE no start, especially when motor is hot.

Also follow all fuel lines both supply and return to see if there is any kinks, crushed places or "hot spots" all the way from the tank to the engine and back to the tank.. I don't think that it is the engine at fault so much as the fuel supply/ return circuits causing the lean burn issue.

just some random thoughts.

red

draxcaliber

well, sounds like the car needs to go back and they need to get it to start consistently, and tell them that the tab for the rental is tough $h!t, you bought the warranty, it isn't your fault they take too long to fix your car. if they give you crap, read out the coverage that your warranty provides about a rental car or whatever, and give scion corporate a call.

you bought an extended warranty, and it is paying off for you, now keep on them about fixing your car, and tell them that you'll be taking a rental until it is fixed.

TOZTR

It's not running lean anymore, it actually runs great... but i'm not getting the gas mileage. They think that my starting problem is either the crankshaft positioning sensor or a flooding injector... I happen to think it's both because, well... it just seems to be the nature of this thing. Injectors would make sense for the bad fuel economy. As far as my numbers go, I am getting no better than 22-24mpg, and I don't drive like a maniac. When I first got the car I was getting around 28-30... so I figure with a brand new motor it should be about the same.
I have already talked to Scion corporate and they haven't gotten back to me... I will be calling them again by the end of the week. I'm at the point where I just want them to put me in another car.

MadMike550

what part of the country are you in?

the winter gas blends wont be doing you any mileage favors

TypeX

Did you contact your insurance company about the rental car situation.

There are all types of coverages and parts to peoples policies that half the people NEVER excersize and end up getting raped paying out of pocket for.

For example...

My buddies transmission went in his 06 civic si (he travels for work so the car was over 100k already lol)

Honda wouldn't cover even with the TSB issued. He was ABOUT to drop 3500k
i told him to call geico, he did, 500 dollar deductible and they covered everything AND even got a rental car to use for work

He had no clue he had that coverage but now dropped the deductible to 0 since he drives so much for work

Good luck with your xB

Reactor

How do you know it was running lean?

Siepel

Bill, my guess is you have a manual transmission, right?

Jan06xB

Check battery voltage when starting and running - low could be a problem. Also check fuel pump pressure when cold starting and hot running since that determines a/f mixture at all speeds and throttle openings if low it will run lean. Low battery voltage could also cause fuel pressure problems. I don't think there is a return from the engine in the fuel system - from what I read it is a non-circulating fuel system and only flows to the engine. I would think that a close inspection of your cooling system would be a good idea also and maybe add a digital engine coolent temperature gauge or run a ScanGauge on the ODBII connector. Don't know about them bent valves though - that is weird - of course if you had ring failure then maybe more was happening in those cylinders. Engine break in after rebuild is needed a little and maybe a check of compression again to make sure everything is ok. Only other thing would be the intake valve timing control sprocket getting hung up that can cause some mileage and performance issues.

richmond2000

#1 check fuel rail PSI
#2 if not done have the injectors tested on a fuel bench checking for spray / dribble
#3 check MAF (dirt on hot wire)
#4 check cam timing / advancer + engine oil PSI

firesquare

if its still under warranty take it back dont dianose anythigng yourself. doesnt Toyotacare cover a rental? rentals dont cuver gas no matter what i know that one. i owned a ford focus so i know how you feel about dealerships also.

where do you get your gas from? manual or auto? you just may have a sour motor and what would be great (but never happens in the warranty world) would be an entire long block. just bring it back and get in contact with your insurance company like was posted up top. good luck.

it sucks to hear stories about sour motors on here. im running 128,000+ strong right now. 5,000 Royal purple, 30,000 Toyota plugs gaped at spec. (i think its (.030) and at the same time i run a sea foam type cleaner at my lube shop.

SKIN

Lemon law... Worth a try.

firesquare

too many miles on it to qualify

bridfi

i would get all new injectors, new crank position sensor, and a new ECU.

but thats me. all that might cost around $2-300 but worth it IMO. or just sell the POS.

TOZTR

Okay, sorry its taken so long to actually get back on here. I am driving a manual. I am taking it back to the dealership when I go on vacation, so they have a nice full week to deal with the darn thing and I won't have to worry about it.

I don't use BP gas... I usually go to Speedway, but sometimes Marathon. I prefer Shell, but there aren't many stations around me.

As for how I know if I'm running lean or not... I have an Autometer a/f gauge installed. (yes, it's connected to the correct o2 sensor). I plan on installing an autometer temp gauge this weekend. (I cut holes in the dash to the left of the existing gauge pod).

I am starting to think it is a problem with the fuel system, for sure. When I turn the car to "ON" and wait about 10sec before starting, it starts fine. I think it might be a problem with the fuel pump/filter at that point, in addition to an injector issue.

I live in Michigan (Ann Arbor area). I am finally past 1000mi. on the new motor and am happy that I have some power back, 3rd gear pulls nicely at 4k. When you talk about "winter gas," I understand that, but the mileage was never as bad before. HOWEVER, I was able to get 300mi. on my last tank (just refilled today, was praying I'd make it to the station). Figured around 28mpg... so, the mileage is improving so now as soon as the starting problem gets fixed, I'll be ready to go.

Thanks for all your help guys, and I'll keep you posted when I get it back after vacation.

firesquare

i want to go on vacation :-(

SciontCya

Take the dealership to small claims court.
Call first, ask for the manager, then tell him your plans.
If they don't pay for the rental, go to court.

SKIN

Damnit. That sux.

Jan06xB

If you find that the engine is running too cold once you get the temperature gauge installed try blocking off the upper grill area if the air temps are below 40 degrees.

vintage42

The grille is solid. Do mean to block off the upper half of the radiator behind the grille?