Thank you everybody! I really appreciate the tips -they have sent me on interesting research adventures!

So far: Progress bar ordered. $135
ScanGauge on order. $152
Getting K&N filter from Amazon: 36$ and free shipping

Will keep the Goodyears at least through winter while I research ultralight yet affordable 15" rims and tires. Looking for 10lb rims for under $400. Hmmmm - I wonder what the silly hubcaps weigh?
Looking at spark plugs - hhave not looked at price/benefit balance yet but will probably do.
Looking at lighter pulley (way off in future - I need to pace myself and this is an edgy mod)
May do muffler - someday......

For safety and sanity -
XM to my head unit instead of all the wires and controls in unsafe place by my feet $100
Car seats - kids doncha know? SOON!!!
Monroe shocks when I get tired of bouncing

I see what you all mean when you say modding gets addictive. I need to slow down!

 

Don't get carried away with the ultralight wheels. Some are really only suitable for use on the track, being too light to absorb any abuse- potholes, curbs, etc... Forged ultralights help in that regard, but they're muy expensivo...

Sparkplugs may make a slight difference... the platinum and iridium plugs are more for extended life than anything else. Making sure that the gap is correct on the stock plugs is probably smart. We've had some reports of under-gapped factory plugs, which will definitely affect mileage and performance.

And, uhh, use 87 octane gas, it's what the manual calls for. Otherwise, the computer backs off on ignition timing in response to the knock sensor. Not good for performance or mileage.

Have fun- post back as the bits and pieces get installed.

 

If ya get the NGK Iridiums remember to gap them at .044. I did this and it added 2-3 mpgs with no other mods. Tested it right after installing them on a 1400 mile road trip.

 

I am throughly impressed with the difference that new bushings made in the ride. The best (cheapest) mod yet!

 

This is a great thread..

I'm in the same shoes as Techmom here. I'm looking for MPG and handling since my budget and my fiance would prefer I keep the car as stock as practical as possible..

Anyways, I'm trying to do mods in moderations (pardon the pun).. I have the ScanGauge II installed on my dash and it's a great help in determining how much gas I am using and how much gas is remaining before I go empty.. Most of the time, I am using the MPG and RPM indicator and realize that warming up your car for 4 mins early in the morning does wonders on gas millage.

I have read great reviews about the Monroe SensaTrac shocks, and it should arrive tomorrow. I'll provide some feedback on them when I get the chance.

Is the verdict still out on the K&N panel filter? I had one of those on my 2000 Accord and the results were not that much better..

Someone mentioned that we should take out the snorkel out of the airbox since it prevents air flow? What is the snorkel?

 

get the black energy suspension bushing they are self greasing and the same hardness . same price as well.

 

Bushings - how do I mount them w/ the Progress Bar? Doesn't make sense to me. I saw them on the Hotchkis install but not sure where they'd go.

Scangauge arrived and I did the trip to school with it after calibrating engine size plus 3% for the stock tires. Wow! When I pay attention I can get over 30 mpg in the city with a car not yet broken in! I also noticed the first 2 miles w/ a cold engine used alot more fuel! Very cool toy and will pay for itself in reminding me to lighten up on the gas. Will fill the cart up tomorrow.

I did some calcs for when or if some of the mods will pay forthemselves in MPG.

K&N air filter - hardly matters - it will save me from buying filters later. If I get a teeny bit more hp and mpg it is a plus. But from all I've heard it will be minor but 1-2 mpg possible.

On the lighter crank pulley - $120 plus installation ($50-70?). Get 1-2 mpg and a peppier feeling engine/ Looks like a 5 year payback so not financially worth it maybe but people wo have them like them so I'll enjoy my car morre? Still on the fence.

Lighter wheels and tires. Stock wheels are heavy but I won't care about potholes. The OEM tires are supposedly fine in snow so they may be a winter tire. Still researching lighter wheels but the replacement tires are heavier than the GoodYears so it may be a costly wash, certainly until I need to replace tires anyway. I figure I have time. Tire buying is so subjective anyway. MPG wasn't a big consideration for me before - it used to be a balance between grippiness, handling, bad weather qualities, and expected tire wear.
I may ditch the covers for trim rings but not in a hurry over summer tires.
BTW - there are some pretty light 16" - more metal less tire - better handling but still enough rubber to protect.

Intakes and mufflers - not for me. I don't need growl (Is that like Harley riders detuning mufflers to keep them loud after Harley learned to engineer a more sedate ride?), I think the K&N will be enough

 

here is the technote for bushing replacement.
They replace the stock bushings on the existing front sway bar.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...8651&start=120

 

A sway bar is good bang for buck. But anything you do to increase the handling, power and pleasure of driving will hurt the mileage, even a sway bar.
A fancy air filter has negligible effect on mileage. There is no cost for getting good mileage, just use less throttle and rpms. Most people are either unable or unwilling to do that. Unable because their driving route and conditions are not conducive, or unwilling because it is work and no fun.

 

Better airflow = less throttle = better mpgs. Get the K&N drop in. You will like it and gain some mpgs

 

No bushings on the rear Progressive. Weirdest design I've ever seen, and I've been changing or adding anti-sway bars to cars for 30 years! Anyway, the bushing change only applies to the front bar.
And again, ditto bB2NER on the K&N.
Have fun!

 

Thanks -
I got the bushings/sway bar thing. Let me get some miles w/ the Progress.

The K&N arrived today and I have to decide whether to put it in now or wait till after I have more miles on to compare. I guess I could swap in and out w/out too much difficulty.

 

Yeah, with the right tool set up it takes second to swap back and forth.

 

because it's not really a swaybar/antiswaybar. it is just an axle stiffener.

 

the only way the rear sway bar could hurt mpg is if you drive faster with it on. or want to propose that the added 10 pounds really cuts down mpg. lol

 

That's why I like the Whiteline design better. It's "more" of a true sway bar.

 

Other people are not so impressed:
"Expect no more than 1-2 hp, if that."
"any performance difference being imperceptible..."
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...ghlight=332211

I used a K&N in a BMW from 1982 to 1995. Had to do that when I changed to a Weber carb - the kit only used K&N. I don't recall any difference when I made the change. I do remember how fuzzy dirty it got, and the washing and oiling procedure. After oiling and drying, the filter still left some red oil under it in the kit's chrome air cleaner.

My hesitation against using a K&N in my xB is:
1. At most a 2% HP gain, which would be at WOT, and not felt in daily driving.
2. Dubious MPG gain.
3. Having to do the oiling routine every year.
4. Possibility of fouling the MAF.
5. Cost of filter and special oi.

 

eh . not really. a true swaybar/antiswaybar connects the axle/suspension members to the frame. the whitelines conect axle to axle at the lower shock mounts.

 

oberoiled.

k&n filters do improve but not by a whole lot. stock airboxes blow *****.

sounds liek you overoiled it.

unfortunately the vast majority of people overoil their re-usable filters of all brands.

 

Depending on miles traveled you may not need to clean and oil it but everyother year.

As far as cost goes you get that back with the savings from not buying the throw away filters every so often.

Then there is all the other bennies from the better airflow. It's kind of a no brainer if you ask me.

Why pay money for filters that flow worse and then have to be thrown them away when they get dirty. Am I missing something????

The over oiling happens when you rush the process. It's always wise to let the filter sit on paper towels awile after oiling so the excess oil doesn't end up contaminating the MAF.

Also forgot another benifit. They actually filter the air better so you also get longer engine life