So for about a couple of weeks now, my xB dosn't seam to be starting up quickly. I turn the key and it hesitates to start up. I turn the key again and it usually startes up the second time. What could it be? I changed the battery already and had the alternator tested and there both o.k. Could it be a starter or some other related part? Your input is greatly appreciated. Don't want to spend a ton of money trying to figure out what it is. Thanks again scion life!

 

i dont know much about cars but did you check the starter?

 

does it turn over, but not start, or does it not even turn over (just a click)?

 

Is it a manual? On mine the clutch has to be all the way to the floor, I sometimes don't push it down far enough.

 

I have not checked the starter. I don't have any way to check it. Well, I don't actually have any kind of tools to check the starter. It turns over after the 2nd and/or 3rd tries. It is manuel, no "foot" clutch involved.

If it is the starter, does anyone know how much that will cost me? Labor and parts. My warranty has expired on the car, so I'm going to have to pay for it out of my pocket. Should I take it to the dealer? All your comments are welcome.

 

Sorry, my mistake. It's automatic. See reply above.

 

I would take it to the dealer and have them do an electronic diagnosis. I think it is around $60. But it should be able to tell you what is wrong

 

It could possibly be a problem with the ignition. If one of the ignition wires is not getting energized, the car will not start. Or maybe even a fuel issue. Best recomedation is to take it to a qualifed/trusted mechanic or the dealership and have it checked out.

 

If you have a 2005 Scion, don't they come with a 3 year factory warranty?!

You should still be covered.

 

Not if (s)he has driven the 36,000 miles. That's the other limitation. Three years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first.

 

Here are some 'common' causes of a car not starting. There are two distinct categories, so you must determine which applies in your case based on how the car reacts when you initially turn the key to the 'start' position:

Turning the key produces absolutely no noise at all, except for maybe a click, the sound of a fan running, or a soft whirring sound from under the car:
Starter, starter solenoid, starter relay, shift interlock switch or ignition switch is going bad, or there is a poor connection in the associated electrical wiring. Starter, solenoid and ignition switch replacements are expensive, but correcting one of the other problems shouldn't be unless there's a lot of diagnosis time involved. You've replaced the battery, so we know it's not that. However, if the car started better right after it was replaced, it's possible something is draining it when the car is parked, or it's not charging properly.

Turning the key produces the sound of the car trying to start, but it won't fire: problem with the fuel or fuel delivery system; or problem with the ignition system, including spark plugs, coils, wiring and various sensors. However, a problem with any of these should also cause some performance issues when you're driving. For the heck of it, try turning the key to the 'on' position and leave it there for four seconds before turning it all the way to 'start'. If the engine starts promptly doing that, suspect the gas cap is not tightened enough and is leaking vapor.

The starting problem may be something easily and inexpensively corrected, but without the experience and test equipment necessary to troubleshoot it, you're stuck with bringing the vehicle to a shop. You can live with it, but just don't let it get so bad that you need a tow. That would be money better put towards a repair.

 

Check the spark plugs and the fuel filter. Either one of those can cause you to have starting problems.

 

I would think you need service on the car. If you have over 36k miles and have never changed the plugs that could be your problem. I believe it needs new plugs every 30K. I would think your ignition system needs a little tlc.

 

I changed the plugs already with some Bosch Platinum+4. No gapping necessary. Could be the fuel filter. So you guy's think it's a fuel issue. I think your right! I guess I'm going to have to take it to the dealer. And yes, I don't have warranty on the car anymore. I have a little over 40,000 miles.

 

I'm gonna make someone mad, but... did this start after putting in lousy euro Bosch plugs? Get Toyota plugs for your Toyota if it did. As far as I know there is no fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail, so I'd like to know how to test fuel pressure... For what it's worth, sometimes my 25 yr. old Chevy seems to start faster than my new Scion. Check your spark before spending lots of $ at the shop. You can pull the plugs and coils with a helper and look at them easily. Also you didn't say anything about a CEL being on, so a shop may not be able to help till it gets worse.

 

I agree with 1 spend $10.00 and put some factory Toyota spark plugs in it and I willing to bet she`ll be back to her old self again .

 

fuel pressure test is simple and instead of buying the tool just buy a B&M guage and you'll always know.
As far as OEM spark plugs...they don't make it they have a factory that is already in the aftermarket supply make it and bump up the price.

Now as far as OBDII testing and such, auto zone will do it for free at no charge.

My Xb doesn't start right away for only one reason..the clutch pedel. I actually like it. No one can start my car but me. When i push my pedel in I have to push it over to the right a little for the connectivity to be made.
a car w/ 40k miles still should'nt have any fuel issues, but again autozone/kragen/ect does testing for free

 

I thought the guy said the his car was automatic ? so NO clutch pedal. As far as the guy that works at autozone and knows absolutley nothing about toyota parts. The plugs are made for Toyota by nippondenso and as far as jacking up the prices up this guy has NO IDEA . The plugs that fit you car I GUARNTEE that you can buy plugs for an XB cheaper from a Factory Toyota Dealership, unless the place is price gouging than you can from ghettozone. Don`t get me wrong when I need a washmit or some microfibre rags to wax my car I go to ghettozone and pay more for everything in there than i would if I would have went to Walmart !! And the dealer is expensive on some stuff you would be supprised at the difference between genuine Toyota parts then ghettozone parts... I sell parts at a Toyota / Lexus / Scion dealership and have for 12 years and the plugs for that car I sell for $2.12 ea If you go buy the same plugs at autozone what do you think your gonna buy em for a dollar ??!

 

Actually
a) I never said I worked for autozone
b) going off first post
c) don't be so ignorant on the part number. Yea Denso does its a generic lable then put with the toyota label. Its nothing special and unless your running an independent igintion. R&D is where the cost is at as well, plus...its 2.55 at the dealership and yes i relize a plug that is higher cost, but compared to some OEM parts I've had to get so far for this car at the dealership which should have been under factory warranty in the first place I'll pass.
If you want I could go into the laws of large numbers, and other cost strutures of why that probably is a cheaper plug, international economics, all the rest but beyond that go hug a sales man and get off my nuts
its 2.55 for the plugs and what like 35$ to install at Findly?

 

Hi! again. Autozone's obdII test won't help unless there is a CEL.
Bosch+4 plugs definitely cost more than Toyota factory plugs. (although there are other plugs in the same price range as OE.)
ND plugs made for Toyota are subject to Toyota specs, and Toyota returns more OE spec parts to their suppliers than any other manufacturer (because of their tight tolerances.)
You cannot FP test these vehicles without either a) splicing into the fuel line or b) removing fuel line to add removable adaptor for testing. Neither of which Autozone does. (respect implied)
I don't think racer wants to splice into his line on his own either, or he wouldn't be seeking input here (aft. mkt. gauge).
racer probably installed his own Bosch+4 plugs because the dealer wouldn't (or because he wouldn't pay for the install). That means he can (likely) pull them out and check or replace them.
Please remember that the point is racer's original question, which he has added more information to.
I still think that the xB, for all of it's positive attributes, does not start "the fastest" of the (dozens of) vehicles I've owned and driven.
I have also had experience show me that in this type of scenario, the OE plugs are the cheapest and easiest trouble shooting technique.
racer may have to pay if he wants to follow one of my original suggestions and have his computer flashed (which Autozone cannot do), but the plugs are cheaper and easier than anything else that has been suggested.
cingham's clutch switch being worn out or misadjusted (or maybe just floormat interference) has nothing to do with racer's AUTO situation.