BakCompat

Hey, i'm looking at finally getting a CC installed in my box, and have seen that Rostra makes the regular CC as seen here several times, but also have an RF model that uses an RF switch tied onto the steering wheel instead of the "hard" switch which is drilled and mounted into the steering column. I'm 6'1" and have seen several people note that they can sometimes bump the CC when they get into their boxes. Would anyone be able to relate their experience with the RF version? The cost is $225 for the RF model, and $180 for the regular. So, the minor bump in price is negligible to me. I'm just more interested in thoughts of the RF unit and how reliable it is. Installation is apparently the same except for having to mount the "hard"switch.

Here is a link to the RF model.

Looney

the hard stick is at an awkward angle, the LED and buttons are not really visible. It is a ____ poor design.

Gsnorgathon

I know dugzillaxb has the rf, and says he's had no problems with it. Try a search. I'm sure you'll find other folks who've used the rf version. I don't recall seeing anyone complaining about it.

BakCompat

ok, i got the RF unit in last week and started to install it this Sunday. I finished the mechanical part under the hood with a lot of elbow grease and cursing. On to the wiring under the hood, i'm stuck at step 8, trying to get to the ignition power wire to T-tap into the wiring harness. There's a big bundle of wires that are blocking my view of everything on that side of the wall. I can't even reach into it much less see what wire to T-tap.

BakCompat

i've thought about it some more and reviewed the pdf and user recommendations from allscion.com and i'm thinking that the cigarette lighter power cable should be sufficient. If all i need is switched ignition power (off when car is off, on when car is on) then the cigarette lighter power cable should work right? Something so simple as that should have come to me earlier, but i was in the mode of "follow the directions" which are painfully stupid for step #8. So, when i get home to try it tonight, i'll look at T-tapping the ligher power cable instead.

Gsnorgathon

I beat my head against that bit behind the fuse box for a good long while, until I figured out that you can unplug the wire harness. Once I'd done that, I was golden.

There's a latch built into the plug, so you have to squeeze it. I also had to pull pretty hard to get it out. A good bit of side-to-side and up-and-down wiggling while pulling the plug out helped.

Wish I had pics - I'm not sure how good my descriptions are...

BakCompat

well, i got it working shortly after i last posted. I take it for a test drive and it's working, so cool, i head back home. I get under the hood and zip tie all the cables out of the way, then test it again to make sure. I had ended up using the add-a-fuse circuit to draw power off the open fuse port above the 15 amp fuse on the left side. It worked as indicated. But after the zip ties, it didn't work any more. I concluded that when i recrimped the wire on the add-a-fuse, i probably lost contact internally.. I was so disheartened that i didn't touch it for over a week. I finally got back under there right now and cut the add-a-fuse wire and soldered it directly to the power wire and the other 12v line. Take it out and it works. So, i'll have to zip tie it once more and it should be good.. Then, i get to mount the wireless unit to the steering wheel, but i don't see yet how to do that. I only briefly looked at it, and it looks like it requires something like a T30 head or so to loosen/remove the steering wheel cover to place the transceiver into it, but i'll need to check into that. Perhaps somebody here has posted directions to removing that shroud. I'll have to do some searching now.

Kerry

I'm following your progress.

I'm interested in seeing which side of the steering column you fasten it to. Also, if on the right side, is fastened at the 2:00 o'clock or the 4:00 o'clock position of the steering wheel.

Sure would be great if you published pics. I can't get a good sense of what the lever looks like and how its buttons work.

Kerry

dugzilla

I put mine on the right side at the 4 position. you don't have to remove the shroud, you can slide the clip in pretty easily.

Kerry

Thanks dugzillaxb,

Can the RF transmitter be placed at the 2?

Was it you who said that the RF clip doesn't fasten tightly and therefore the housing moves slightly when you press buttons? I'm wondering if it could be epoxied so that it was rigidly affixed?

I've mentioned elsewhere that my ideal is to be able to depress buttons without having to move my palm from the steering wheel at 2.

Kerry

dugzilla

I don't think it will sit at 2, and you should be able to epoxy it on I would think

Kerry

Thanks Doug,

Kerry

BakCompat

hey Kerry, here area couple pics of it installed on my steering wheel.
Note that the steering wheel shroud is not fully pulled back into place. I'll need to try repositioning the placement down a centimeter or so to see if it will sit flush. You should be able to place it anywhere you want around the wheel with epoxy, but if you want to use the included metal clip which presses into the shroud, then you will have to place it somewhere in the open area of the circle, not where the left/right or downward columns attach to the wheel. So, 4 o'clock position should work.




Now, it works for me after all the hastle i have gone through, but when tested at 40 mph in the city. I drove to Houston this past weekend with the expectation of using it, and it would not engage at 70 mph. In retrospect, i think it engaged, but with a lower speed. I don't think i let the speed drop down enough to see if it was actually engaged. If that's not the case, then i will need to mess with the dip switches internally to do the "increased sensitivity" mode mentioned elsewhere. Otherwise, i'll try moving up the clevis another rotation or two.

Kerry

Thanks so much BakCompat.

The pics help a lot. I'm encouraged with your epoxy comment. My understanding is that the RF module moves slightly when you press the buttons because the clips don't hold it as steady as if it were screwed or glued. My thought is that I would install it with the clips and get it working for a while and then epoxy it at the position I want.

I'll be interested to read the outcome of your dip switch adventure.

Thanks,

Kerry
2006 xB w/6200 miles
stock everything.

vintage42

Are you refering to the car or the stalk? Should Scion have designed the steering column differently for a car that was not offered with cruise control, or should Rostra have designed a zig-zag bent stalk just for the Scion?

bB2NER

I love my regular corded one now that I finally got the sensitivity issues worked out. Got it mounted at about 7 o'clock and have no issues reading/operating it.

dugzilla

I love the RF unit, and mine is working so much better now that the adjustment has been made!

Kerry

Both of you love your CC's. What a choice!!

bB2NER, could you please describe how you manipulate the bottons?

I'm assuming the lever itself doesn't move?

Do you have to take your hand off the wheel for both "Set" and "Resume"? Loking at the pic of the buttons it looks like it requires different fingers, one pushing the button from one side of the lever and another finger to push the button on the opposite side, and that neither button could be pressed without removing the hand from the wheel. Perhaps they can be pressed using the side of a finger?

Tain't no doubt, I want a CC. I don't want to live with a misunderstanding for ten years.

dugzillaxb, glad to read: "...so much better now that the adjustment has been made!" It's encouraging.

Thanks,

Kerry

bB2NER

Kerry, not sure what you mean by "manipulate" but I'll give it a shot. The side button (towards the door) turns the unit on. The top one is set/coast. Bottom one is resume/accelerate.
I adjusted the angle of the stalk to right at 9 o'clock. I can see it and operate all the buttons with my left hand with no problems while driving. Only thing I don't like now is having to turn on the front map light sometimes when I forget what button does what.
Now that it is "adjusted" for the xB it holds the set speed within 1 mph. Even while going up hill. Before the adjustment I either had to anticipate a hill and speed up prior to it. Or just click off OD and let it wind up before going up. Hope this answers your questions about the stalk cruise.

Kerry

Thanks, sorry for the confusion.

Do you have to take your hand off the wheel to press either button?

Do you press the buttons with the first pad of a finger or can you press either or both buttons by moving a finger sideways, hitting the button with the side of a finger?

The ideal for me would be that I could press either button without taking my hand off the wheel.

Did you have to drill and tap a hole in the steering wheel column, or as you say, the 9 o'clock position?

Does the stalk base go into plastic or metal? I ask because the pics look like the base of the stalk is threaded and that it would screw into a threaded hole?

Thanks,

Kerry