So how do I get them out? They are stuck in real tight, I'm afraid of breaking them I'm turning so hard.
Help please

 

i thinkg there is a spray for stuff like this if not try and spray a very light mist of wd40 and then use the anti seaze cream when ya replace them..

 

I was thinking of spraying some wd40 but didn't know if it was safe

 

If they are that tight I would pay someone to change them the first time just to be safe. If they break them they fix it.
Have they been replaced once already?
My original ones were not that tight. If you do get them out you only need to tighten the new ones 1/2 turn after the washer touches.

 

Not a bad idea at all! I just did my originals, and they were tight as SHEET! I was just waiting for one to snap.

 

don't forget the anti sieze

 

^^cereal!

 

Are you guys taking them out when the engine is hot or cold?? THAT can make a difference with aluminum heads!

 

a real man only needs two tools, wd-40 for thinks that are supposed to move and don't, and duct tape, for things that move that aren't supposed to.

 

might I suggest doing the plugs cold

if you have to correct tools..do not be afraid to use some force to get the plugs out

and as bB2ner says above...do not over tighten them...

 

i've got a plug removal tool and it's the first time that they'll be removed.

 

Some random thoughts, some of which were mentioned by others:

-- When I do mine, I always do them 1st thing in the morning to make sure the engine is not just cool but COLD. VERY, VERY important since dissimilar metals expand and contract at differing rates.

-- When applying the anti-sieze, ONLY apply it on the upper half of the plug threads (porcelain is what I call the up side). If you look at old plugs, you will notice that almost half of the threads are in the combustion chamber. No need to put any on the lower half - and it may actually cause damage and/or contamination if you do.

The first time I removed mine, they were tight, but not horribly tight. Tighter than the recommend torque though, but it didnt feel like anything was going to break. I used an 8" extension and a spark plug socket, 3/8 drive. The box the plugs come in will have the torque listed. I tighten them to 21 ft/lbs, IIRC. I always do mine once per year to insure they dont become siezed.

 

Never change plugs on a hot/warm engine! Strip city here we come!

A standard ratchet and spark plug socket should do ya. Should not be that tight.

Blow compressed air into the "well" after removing the cap, but before removing the plug just in case there is some dirt or anything rolling around down there. Then it won't fall into the hole when the plugs come out.

I'm going to say some thing stupid here...righty tighty, lefty loosie. Just to be sure that you are not tightening the s#!t out of them!

Should not be that tight.

<flame suit on!>

 

I think a breaker bar to loosen them may help give a better feel and prevent you from breaking off the plug - the longer lever give more rotational torque and less latteral force.
As far as hot or cold I ask that to see if anyone realizes that Aluminum heads expand MORE than Steel Plugs and they should be more loose if the engine it HOT. However the hole gets a little longer when hot and that may put more load on the plug seat making it tighter . . . just a guess either way . . . definately would be good to WD40 them a few trips ahead of time to let it work in. Now I have always put a little motor oil right off the dipstick on the threads to lube them and that seems to have worked in all my engines.

 

Good point!

Threads in the head are not only slightly larger diameter (looser) but also minutely longer as you stared, which changes the thread pitch. Also, the aluminum (any metal for that matter) is softer at higher temps. Along with the fact that you cannot start the plugs by hand, it just increases the chance for cross threading and then stripping.

Thats exactly why they can strip easier when the engine is hot. If you insert a cold plug in a hot head, it will expand and theoretically "overtighten" itself as it equalizes to the temperature of the head. making it harder to remove later. Hot plug in a hot head probably not as bad, but who does that?

Another plus for DIY. Do you think the shop will let your engine cool down to the max and use anti seize before torquing (they will use a torque wrench, right?) the plugs in? If you do it yourself, you know it was done right.

 

I use a piece of hose over the plug to start them by hand and thread them in till the washer touches. Then use the socket to turn it the other half turn to set the crush washer.