Vsc, trac off, abs lights on; no cel caused by tbl and blinker! PROBLEM SOLVED!
So yesterday night I installed my oznium.com third brake light with ease. The engine was off throughout the entire process. Once finished, I applied the brake a few times to see how it looked and it looked great. Eventually the brake locked up after a couple presses which I thought was normal.
This morning driving to work, the ABS, VSC, TRAC OFF lights all came on. I arrived at work, turned off the car and turned it back on. When in park, they remained off, but as soon as I started driving, they came back on.
There is NO check engine light so when I tried to run codes with my iPhone, there were no codes to be found. The BRAKE light is also off.
I want to be able to fix this without having to take it to the dealer, what should I do? Was this caused by my excessive pressing of the brake pedal?
**UPDATE** K so I did about three driving trips later today. The first two turned on the lights within 2 minutes of starting the drive. The third trip took a good 10 minutes of driving until the cluster activated. I cannot find any correlation to their occurrences. It is quite weird.
I just disconnected the battery for the rest of the night. I will reconnect in the morning before I leave for work and I will re-update this thread with the findings.
**UPDATE NEXT DAY** After the battery disconnect, driving to work today the cluster came back on unfortunately.
I am also noticing my car is doing some weird engine revving around 40MPH. It seems as though the torque converter is engaging and disengaging with high frequency. It usually occurred while coasting and not depressing the throttle very much. It would go from 2000 to 2200 RPM and sounds and feels like the engine is chugging and sputtering. I don't know if it has anything to do with the cluster.
**UPDATE SAME DAY** So I replaced the third brake light with the stock TBL, and sure enough: NO CLUSTER. Car was OK with the stock. It definitely hates the oznium one. I have researched and I need to add a resistor into "tricking" the car into thinking the stock bulb is being used.
**UPDATE SAME DAY--LATER THAT NIGHT** Well I finally found the problem!!!! I reinstalled ther third brake light from oznium and found something unbelievable. As I was driving, I used my blinker to switch lanes, and as I activate the blinker, IT TURNS THE TORQUE CONVERTER ON AND OFF CAUSING REVS THAT SYNC WITH THE BLINKER!!!!! Also, one other unbelievable thing. When the car is in park and the blinker is on, the shifter engages the shifter lock and unlock synced to the frequency of the blinker!!!
ONE OTHER THING: The cluster will not activate until the blinker is activated. Once the blinker is activated, the cluster turns on and remains on until the car is restarted.
Oznium needs to fix this problem.
What are your thoughts everyone...?
PROBLEM SOLVED So one of the people posting on this thread by the name of Reactor came up with the genius idea that my trailer lights wiring harness might be causing the problem. I do keep them hooked up to my tailights because the tails are unaffected when the harness isnt in use. Sure enough, I unplugged the harness and the oznium TBL worked PERFECTLY!!!! I am quite excited and it looks great! I will be contacting Oznium to notify them of this VERY specific issue.
Thanks for all the help people!!!!
This morning driving to work, the ABS, VSC, TRAC OFF lights all came on. I arrived at work, turned off the car and turned it back on. When in park, they remained off, but as soon as I started driving, they came back on.
There is NO check engine light so when I tried to run codes with my iPhone, there were no codes to be found. The BRAKE light is also off.
I want to be able to fix this without having to take it to the dealer, what should I do? Was this caused by my excessive pressing of the brake pedal?
**UPDATE** K so I did about three driving trips later today. The first two turned on the lights within 2 minutes of starting the drive. The third trip took a good 10 minutes of driving until the cluster activated. I cannot find any correlation to their occurrences. It is quite weird.
I just disconnected the battery for the rest of the night. I will reconnect in the morning before I leave for work and I will re-update this thread with the findings.
**UPDATE NEXT DAY** After the battery disconnect, driving to work today the cluster came back on unfortunately.
I am also noticing my car is doing some weird engine revving around 40MPH. It seems as though the torque converter is engaging and disengaging with high frequency. It usually occurred while coasting and not depressing the throttle very much. It would go from 2000 to 2200 RPM and sounds and feels like the engine is chugging and sputtering. I don't know if it has anything to do with the cluster.
**UPDATE SAME DAY** So I replaced the third brake light with the stock TBL, and sure enough: NO CLUSTER. Car was OK with the stock. It definitely hates the oznium one. I have researched and I need to add a resistor into "tricking" the car into thinking the stock bulb is being used.
**UPDATE SAME DAY--LATER THAT NIGHT** Well I finally found the problem!!!! I reinstalled ther third brake light from oznium and found something unbelievable. As I was driving, I used my blinker to switch lanes, and as I activate the blinker, IT TURNS THE TORQUE CONVERTER ON AND OFF CAUSING REVS THAT SYNC WITH THE BLINKER!!!!! Also, one other unbelievable thing. When the car is in park and the blinker is on, the shifter engages the shifter lock and unlock synced to the frequency of the blinker!!!
ONE OTHER THING: The cluster will not activate until the blinker is activated. Once the blinker is activated, the cluster turns on and remains on until the car is restarted.
Oznium needs to fix this problem.
What are your thoughts everyone...?
PROBLEM SOLVED So one of the people posting on this thread by the name of Reactor came up with the genius idea that my trailer lights wiring harness might be causing the problem. I do keep them hooked up to my tailights because the tails are unaffected when the harness isnt in use. Sure enough, I unplugged the harness and the oznium TBL worked PERFECTLY!!!! I am quite excited and it looks great! I will be contacting Oznium to notify them of this VERY specific issue.
Thanks for all the help people!!!!
Last edited by ajcadoo; Jan 14, 2011 at 07:06 AM.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but when you mess with electrical components on a car I think you're supposed to disconnect the battery(the negative, I think..) beforehand and reconnect it when you're finished.
Turn your car off, disconnect, let it sit for a few minutes, reconnect, start the car, and drive it a little bit. Hopefully it'll do some sort of ECU/general electrical reset.
Then come back here and report the results.
Turn your car off, disconnect, let it sit for a few minutes, reconnect, start the car, and drive it a little bit. Hopefully it'll do some sort of ECU/general electrical reset.
Then come back here and report the results.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but when you mess with electrical components on a car I think you're supposed to disconnect the battery(the negative, I think..) beforehand and reconnect it when you're finished.
Turn your car off, disconnect, let it sit for a few minutes, reconnect, start the car, and drive it a little bit. Hopefully it'll do some sort of ECU/general electrical reset.
Then come back here and report the results.
Turn your car off, disconnect, let it sit for a few minutes, reconnect, start the car, and drive it a little bit. Hopefully it'll do some sort of ECU/general electrical reset.
Then come back here and report the results.
Good detective work, but I'm not convinced Oznium is at fault here. I suspect your xB has an electrical problem that's exacerbated by the lower resistance in the brake light/turn signal circuit.
It's unlikely Toyota designed its torque converter locking signal to interact with the turn/brake signals, so there's likely a short between the two circuits, made more apparent when the lower resistance third brake light is introduced into the brake circuit.
It's unlikely Toyota designed its torque converter locking signal to interact with the turn/brake signals, so there's likely a short between the two circuits, made more apparent when the lower resistance third brake light is introduced into the brake circuit.
Good detective work, but I'm not convinced Oznium is at fault here. I suspect your xB has an electrical problem that's exacerbated by the lower resistance in the brake light/turn signal circuit.
It's unlikely Toyota designed its torque converter locking signal to interact with the turn/brake signals, so there's likely a short between the two circuits, made more apparent when the lower resistance third brake light is introduced into the brake circuit.
It's unlikely Toyota designed its torque converter locking signal to interact with the turn/brake signals, so there's likely a short between the two circuits, made more apparent when the lower resistance third brake light is introduced into the brake circuit.
Hey ajcadoo,
I agree with SentraSE-R. Honestly I've never heard of this issue before with the third brake light. I've heard of it when people change their turn signals to LEDs.
You could fix the symptoms by increasing the amperage draw.
Same thing happens sometimes when people change their turn signals to LED.
I've heard of people painting their stock bulb (so that no light shines through), and then having the stock bulb on that circuit so the amperage draw is high enough.
Or you could use a load resistor, but not sure which one, or how to figure out which one.
- Phil
Owner, Oznium.com
I agree with SentraSE-R. Honestly I've never heard of this issue before with the third brake light. I've heard of it when people change their turn signals to LEDs.
You could fix the symptoms by increasing the amperage draw.
Same thing happens sometimes when people change their turn signals to LED.
I've heard of people painting their stock bulb (so that no light shines through), and then having the stock bulb on that circuit so the amperage draw is high enough.
Or you could use a load resistor, but not sure which one, or how to figure out which one.
- Phil
Owner, Oznium.com
Torque converter lockup supposed to disengage when you apply the brakes. That causes slight RPM difference since now there is some normal slip. Still, the engine is not supposed to sputter or chug or whatever.
I have an auto with LED tails and LED 3rd brake light and it didn't affect anything. Can you drive without 3rd light connected just to see what happens? First time i hear about problem related to Oznium brake light.
I have an auto with LED tails and LED 3rd brake light and it didn't affect anything. Can you drive without 3rd light connected just to see what happens? First time i hear about problem related to Oznium brake light.
Hey ajcadoo,
I agree with SentraSE-R. Honestly I've never heard of this issue before with the third brake light. I've heard of it when people change their turn signals to LEDs.
You could fix the symptoms by increasing the amperage draw.
Same thing happens sometimes when people change their turn signals to LED.
I've heard of people painting their stock bulb (so that no light shines through), and then having the stock bulb on that circuit so the amperage draw is high enough.
Or you could use a load resistor, but not sure which one, or how to figure out which one.
- Phil
Owner, Oznium.com
I agree with SentraSE-R. Honestly I've never heard of this issue before with the third brake light. I've heard of it when people change their turn signals to LEDs.
You could fix the symptoms by increasing the amperage draw.
Same thing happens sometimes when people change their turn signals to LED.
I've heard of people painting their stock bulb (so that no light shines through), and then having the stock bulb on that circuit so the amperage draw is high enough.
Or you could use a load resistor, but not sure which one, or how to figure out which one.
- Phil
Owner, Oznium.com
Torque converter lockup supposed to disengage when you apply the brakes. That causes slight RPM difference since now there is some normal slip. Still, the engine is not supposed to sputter or chug or whatever.
I have an auto with LED tails and LED 3rd brake light and it didn't affect anything. Can you drive without 3rd light connected just to see what happens? First time i hear about problem related to Oznium brake light.
I have an auto with LED tails and LED 3rd brake light and it didn't affect anything. Can you drive without 3rd light connected just to see what happens? First time i hear about problem related to Oznium brake light.
Sounds like you have positive voltage from the turn indicator circuit leaking into the brake light circuit. That usually happens through the light bulbs in the tails if one bulb is shared between stop and turn. On xB's though this is not normally the case since we share stop/parking circuit.
Does it matter which side you set your blinkers on?
Does it matter which side you set your blinkers on?
Last edited by Reactor; Jan 13, 2011 at 08:34 PM.
Sounds like you have positive voltage from the turn indicator circuit leaking into the brake light circuit. That usually happens through the light bulbs in the tails if one bulb is shared between stop and turn. On xB's though this is not normally the case since we share stop/parking circuit.
Does it matter which side you set your blinkers on?
Does it matter which side you set your blinkers on?
I am researching waht resistor to use and maybe that will help solve the issue, otherwise I will probably connect the stock AND oznium lights together






