Hey, slightly off topic but the s-pipe replaces the scuba right?

 

No. It goes like this:

header/s-pipe/scuba/mid-pipe/axle-back

At this time there is no bolt-in replacement for the "scuba tank" section. There are a few full exhaust systems that replace the scuba tank. CXR, Magnaflow, Ebay.

 

Referencing your own thread, re-read posts 6, 10 and 11.

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=201282

No remains no.

 

ok got a question with the o2 sensor in only 1 of the exhaust ports does it effect the way the car reads the exhaust ?? (I put a header like this on a honda b engine for a friend and it always ran a little weired afterwards)
chris

 

As long as all four cylinders are receiving essentially the same A/F charge, I wouldn't expect a change in behavior. Driving mine, the only change I notice is it being a little more eager now ! Do you remember what the behavior change was with your friend's Honda?

 

the honda almost acted like it was camed but it wasn't like it would like to run on only a couple of cyls. but not totally a missfire

 

Geez, only guess I can make is if the O2 sensor got damaged some how (anti-seize on the tip maybe) or there was a head flange or sensor bung leak causing the ECU to misread the A/F. It really shouldn't look any different to the ECU as long as the sensor is functioning properly. As a long shot, if the primary and secondary O2 sensors were accidentally swapped (given it probably needed a CEL Eliminator), then that would cause trouble.

 

well I think you got me sold on the $100 one to the 400 one wow. ok next upgrade here we go

 

im about to do this i think...what was the opening diameter of the header at the bottom (the part that attaches to the s-pipe).

 

My collector pipe OD is roughly 2-1/4", so the ID is probably similar to 2-1/8" -- don't know exactly.

 

how is the paint holding up after driving? any chipping or fading?

 

As of about two and a half months ago, it has about ten coats on it including the primer. Its appearance didn't change during that period until I wrapped the lower portion of the header, causing the pipe temp to increase, but after about a week, it restabilized. This photo I took yesterday shows the current appearance.



Like any paint, if you hit it with or against something hard, than you can expect a chip, but it doesn't by itself. If the installation and curing instructions on the can aren't followed, then flaking is a real possibility.

 

Trev,

Only got one question because as soon as I can this is my next mod....all the prep work you did before you installed the header (minus the paint because that is almost a have too with the header) is it a "have to"? was it done to have the header sit flush against the manifold? i mean lets just say I bought it and wanted to use it as is with the supplied gasket what issues I may run into by not taking these steps...just because lets say I have no access to that material u used and work out in the street like any apartment dwelling unfortunate human being...just wondering bud any info is greatly appreciated

-J.B.

 

You shouldn't "have to" do anything to the header other than install it. Just check the flange with a straight edge for flatness and if it's close, bolt it on and go. Keep in mind that if you paint it, you'll probably have to re-paint it every year or two whereas if you leave it bare it will discolor from the heat and you can polish that out if you want.

 

as always a man wise beyond his yrs... lol Thanks Fred I was just wanna make sure...thanks for the assistance!

 

If I were wiser I probably wouldn't do all the extra stuff that Trevor does but I suspect our common OCD outweighs our wisdom at times.

I would have probably done most of the extra work that Trevor did (except paint) but it's not necessary and adds very little for the time and effort involved. It's a lot easier to just bolt it on and enjoy it. We'll have to see what Trevor has to say about the flange flatness but I can tell you that my CXR header flange was warped by roughly 1/8" and it sealed fine. It was high in the middle but flattened out when torqued to the head even using the thin oem MLS gasket. You should be able to find lots of pics to see how 304SS headers discolor after use. Good luck and enjoy the header!

 

Well, I think Roller_Toaster made clear that all you really need to do is bolt it on and go, though I personally don't think that would work out too well with the stainless steel OE gasket (no give at all). Cylinders 2 through 4 may seal OK, but I doubt 1 would, also, there's a lot of texture to the flange surface, don't know for sure that would be a problem, but it could be. As far as painting, I did it entirely for my own reasons -- it's certainly not necessary.

The reason I put so much attention into this stuff is I'm hoping to get the max value out of it. Probably, few go to that much effort and I'm not suggesting more should -- it's just something I find interesting and satisfying ! It's like, how many people make a CAI out of PVC, and then on top of that, put serious effort into smoothing interior edges? It's just the way I am !

 

I went back and looked at the header flange again and it looks like it could definitely benefit from some filing and sanding. It looks just like my CXR header with a coarsely finished, zinc plated mild steel flange. The supplied gasket may seal well enough but I agree with Trevor that the oem gasket might not. It's probably worth the effort to smooth the flange face but I wouldn't worry about a little end to end warpage. If the flange is high in the middle, torque from the outside-in.


BTW Trevor, I hope I didn't offend you with my reference to OCD. A little OCD can be a good thing. I also didn't mean to knock your choice to paint the header. It looks good painted. It's just that my past experience with header paint has been that it doesn't last very long. My manifold needs to be re-painted after less than 2 years. Yours may last longer, I only used 4 coats on mine.

 

As I recall, Roller_Toaster may have knocked a couple bits of "slag" off his flange (I didn't notice any on mine) -- something to inspect before install. As I mentioned in my write-up, I really do prefer a level mating surface (and I consider reuse of the OE gasket a desirable goal), but it's definitely not necessary. The included gasket has plenty of "give" and should easily take care of the flange irregularities. As far as I'm aware, Roller_Toaster has made out fine with his install !

Not a problem, and seriously, my attention to detail is part of my enjoyment. If I only gain 1% from the effort, that's still 1% more than I otherwise would have realized (did the same thing with my Eclipse )!

This is my second experience with VHT "Flame Proof" paint, the first being my Tsudo exhaust and after three years, the underside of the rear crossover pipe was paint free , but not the rest! The underside was exposed to road debris and so it's not hard to imagine how the paint could suffer, but I'm hopeful the header paint will remain intact -- as always, to be seen ! Due to corrosion, I've now also painted the intermediate pipes (part of my hitch install), but although I'd like it to survive, I can't presume that !

 

In my experience, "bits of slag", coarsely finished header flanges, un-cleaned welds and unfinished cuts on CAI AL tubing is generally what separates ebay products from the much more expensive brand name products. Anyone expecting a bolt-on product would do well to spend the extra $$$ for Strup, AEM, Injen, etc. However if you don't mind spending some time filing, sanding, de-burring and cleaning, one can save a lot of $$$ with ebay performance parts. That said, I agree 100% about the importance of a level, flat header/head mating surface and also believe the oem MLS gasket to be superior to the supplied encased paper/graphite gasket. The worst possible gasket being an internally reinforced paper/graphite gasket like what CXR included with their header. I still have it, for what I don't know. I'd never actually use it. If the mating surfaces are flat enough you can even use hi-temp RTV like a lot of drag racers do.





Cool, I feel the same way and will continue to pursue mechanical perfection as time, tools and skill level permit. OTOH most people would happily forego porting and polishing their header ports for the extra 1hp and live with the 9 hp gain the imperfect header affords.



I've never been very good with painting stuff but I'm getting better (patience is key). I recently stripped and re-painted 5 alloy wheels for my 93 Subaru and they turned out very nice considering how badly corroded they were to start. 2 coats primer, 2 coats color and 2 coats clear. I don't think I've ever used VHT brand hi-temp paint before so it may be superior but it seems to me that the hi-temp paint i have used doesn't provide that hard, wear-resistant finish that std temp enamels do. Mine have always been kind of soft, chalky and not very durable.

Anyway, I hope your exhaust system paint holds up for many years. I'm leaning towards replacing my cast iron manifold with a cast SS manifold rather than removing it just to re-paint it. I considered Jet-Hot or similar ceramic coating but since the SS manifold costs about the same with no down time, it seems like the best option.