Hi,
So I've looked at videos on YouTube and for the life of me, I can't find my 2010 Scion xB Belt Tensioner Bolt. I found a bolt that was 14mm that actually started loosening the Serp belt but then on YouTube,
everyone is saying it's a 19mm bolt. But I can't find one that is 19mm. Does anyone have any ideas? This 14mm I can't seem to loosen enough to get the belt off yet. I gave up and it was getting too dark so I'll try again tomorrow.


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Hope this helps:

 

That's what's funny...it's actually 14mm on my Scion 2010 xB.
I mean, the only bolt I can find that loosens my belt is 14mm.

There is no 19mm anywhere that I can find at all on the belts.

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The tensioner bolt head isn't a conventional bolt. It does not turn. It only pivots the tensioner assembly plate. The plate is what the idler pulley and tension valve are bolted to.

Are you the original owner? Just wondering if a previous owner broke the 19mm bolt head off the plate.

 

I am not the original owner.

 

Have you tried removing the front passenger wheel and the fender liner? Might be easier to see and or access than from the top.

 

No. I actually got done replacing the Alternator last night. I did a video on YouTube replacing it. I hope I didn't give bad information with the 14mm bolt.
I had problems with it. Here's the video if you want to watch it. 1:30 is where the belt tensioner part starts.

 

Here's a pic of the tensioner assembly. The 19mm bolt head is on the right margin. As you can see, it's not an actual bolt. It's just a hex head used to compress the tensioner valve.

Use caution, the hex head is cast into the aluminum plate. One wrong move could break it off.

 

ahh, dangit. I guess I just couldn't see it and used the 14mm in that pic to loosen it. Either way it worked....not perfectly but ugh. I made a disclaimer in the youtube video description. Hopefully that will clear up some confusion and stop any spreading of misinformation.

 

Cool video. Nice to have an assistant.

About 1:30 in, the 14mm bolt is the idler pulley bolt. Glad to hear there's more than one way to skin this cat.

The 19mm hex head on the plate may be tough to see because it's not shiny like the nickle plating on the idler pulley bolt. If the plate is covered with grime, the 19mm hex head is likely grimy as well.

 

Yep I totally see it now and am kicking myself lol. Thank goodness for this site! And thank you very much for the info. Also thank you for the kind words on the video. Never done it before. Was just wanting to help someone if they need it. My mother in law was a savior lol!

 

You're welcome. Good on your mother in-law. Sounds like the 19mm hex head is intact and ready to remove and or replace your serpentine belt. Not sure if you have a mechanical spring tensioner or a hydraulic valve tensioner. You can see the spring. The hydraulic valve type looks more like cylinder.

Anywho, if you have the hydraulic valve type, compress it slowly and smoothly. It will take a moment for the valve to compress.

 

Hey guys it’s me again. So as you know I replaced my alternator and all was good for about a week. I get on the highway and my battery light goes on. I already knew I had an old battery so I went to Autozone and the highest end battery they had. The woman there said it was perfectly new and charged. So I was like cool. She installed it and We get back on the highway and the light goes back on after 5 mins. Where we were going was about an hour drive. The light was on the whole time and I was pretty stressed. As we were coming to our destination the light went off. So I chalked it up to the battery was not charged she put in and just needed time for my “awesome“ new alternator to charge. So I was so happy. Well fast forward another week and out of nowhere the battery light came back on for like 5 secs and went off. it stayed off for a couple days. Now today it went on and stayed on for about 5 mins. Then went off again Then on and then off. I mainly went off when rpms are low which is weird. I checked the battery terminals And they were tight on there. So do you think I have a bad alternator or a bad connection somewhere or something else? Any insight would be great. I really don’t want to have to do this alternator again. But if I have to at least it’s under warranty. Thoughts?

 

Auto Zone, Advance Auto Parts, etc do alternator tests for free. Might want to call ahead to make sure before you head their way.

When you changed the alternator, do you recall any corroded connections? Did you check the negative battery cable connection(s)?

 

I took it to Advance Auto Parts where I bought the Alternator. Come to find out it's a Bad Alternator. Go figure.
Also the round plastic plug on top of the Alternator is melted. ugh. Not sure if that's b/c the Alternator is bad or is there's something else going on.

Anyone know if there's another issue or not and where I can get that plug? They don't sell it at that store I was at.

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Sorry, I'm not familiar with the plastic plug. Did Advance give you another alternator?

 

Yes, I have the new Alternator. It will be refunded.





Here is the melted adapter.

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Ouch. I checked ebay for a replacement cable. All they had were battery cables.

You can probably find the alternator cable assembly at a salvage yard. A new one from a dealership might be costly.

Another route might be an alternator shop. A pro might be able to repair your cable (and install your new alternator while they're at it.) They might even discover what caused the short. You could call ahead and ask whether they'd need a cable assembly before you go to the trouble of rounding one up.

If the alternator mechanic blames the alternator for the burnt cable, you could contact Advance to see if they'll cover the cost. Good luck with the repair.

 

I don't know or think the cable is fried. It seems just the plastic cap is melted. I'm not entirely sure though. I think I'm going to take it to a mechanic tomorrow and see what they say. I'm so mad bc the replacement went so well and i replaced the battery too. It just seems like that should be all that needs to be done. I hate how complex cars are.

 

Good to hear it's just the cap. Good luck with the mechanic.