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10-04-2011, 05:43 AM
#2
Congrats! I'm looking forward to pics and a dyno sheet (if possible). Is Descendant tuning it or are you going to try their base tune first?
You didn't mention t-stat or plugs so fwiw the Mishimoto t-stat and 1 step colder NGK Iridium IX plugs are great additions. M1 ATF has also worked great for me but I really can't say with any certainty that it's actually better than Toyota's fuel economy oriented WS.
You didn't mention t-stat or plugs so fwiw the Mishimoto t-stat and 1 step colder NGK Iridium IX plugs are great additions. M1 ATF has also worked great for me but I really can't say with any certainty that it's actually better than Toyota's fuel economy oriented WS.
10-04-2011, 08:19 AM
#3
Then why spend all the $$ to go boost ???????
so no need to go into a full debate warning me of the dangers.
10-04-2011, 04:18 PM
#5
NO BASE TUNE!!! I can't stress how important this is! The base map is only preset to allow you to get to your dyno/tuner. It is NOT meant to be used as a tune.
Descendant will be doing the full install, while churches will be doing the dyno/tune.
Plugs and colder tstat weren't recommended by descendant, actually besides the radiator, they recommend a completely stock motor. If it wasn't for Rob having an extra TRD exhaust laying around, I would have went with the stock!
As far as AT fluid, I will be also staying stock. When I upgrade the valve body, then I will opt for Royal purp or something comparable.
Descendant will be doing the full install, while churches will be doing the dyno/tune.
Plugs and colder tstat weren't recommended by descendant, actually besides the radiator, they recommend a completely stock motor. If it wasn't for Rob having an extra TRD exhaust laying around, I would have went with the stock!
As far as AT fluid, I will be also staying stock. When I upgrade the valve body, then I will opt for Royal purp or something comparable.
I find it odd that they would recommend stock heat range plugs and 200F+ ECT for 10 psi but maybe they know something that others don't. Do they at least re-gap the plugs for boost? I suppose the tuner can always pull enough timing to compensate for those detonation risks. FWIW, I've lowered my avg ECT from 200F to 170F with the Mishimoto t-stat and stock radiator and it's never exceeded oem ECT levels.
My own theory on the ATF is that Toyota switched to thinner WS solely for better CAFE and that a traditional Dex III viscosity ATF would provide better line pressure and protection. It was just a suggestion. I can't wait to see what 10 psi will do through a 1.8" exhaust. Good luck with everything.
10-04-2011, 05:27 PM
#6
yeah "turn key" might be a tad deceptive, it is actually meant able to drive away to your tuner. I would highly doubt that a single base map tune would suffice for every xb application, which is why some ppl report the base map as being "ok", while others do not. NOTHING compares to a custom dyno/tune job.
I will monitor temp levels in the engine bay, in anycase, thanx for the info on tstat and plugs, I will again address this issue w/ descendant, as I did with the TRD exhaust, as ROB has guaranteed me that the stock motor is all I need, with the exception of the tranny.
They are the masters of their kit, so im assuming the tune will address timing issues properly. If not, I will be back in their shop having *them* address said issues
I will monitor temp levels in the engine bay, in anycase, thanx for the info on tstat and plugs, I will again address this issue w/ descendant, as I did with the TRD exhaust, as ROB has guaranteed me that the stock motor is all I need, with the exception of the tranny.
They are the masters of their kit, so im assuming the tune will address timing issues properly. If not, I will be back in their shop having *them* address said issues
Anyway, welcome to the boosted XB2 club.
10-05-2011, 07:12 AM
#9
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/
Unfortunately I suspect that there may be good reasons why every boosted AT TC I know of who bought a valve body upgrade or built AT from either company has since done a MT swap...
The only boosted AT cars I know of that are still AT are running fairly low boost on stock trannies. If there is anyone out there running more than 300whp/tq through a U241E, I'd love to hear about it.
Unfortunately I suspect that there may be good reasons why every boosted AT TC I know of who bought a valve body upgrade or built AT from either company has since done a MT swap...
The only boosted AT cars I know of that are still AT are running fairly low boost on stock trannies. If there is anyone out there running more than 300whp/tq through a U241E, I'd love to hear about it.
10-05-2011, 01:32 PM
#10
Senior Member
Scikotics
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Patuxent River, MD
Posts: 2,476
I'm on my second transmission currently, and from what I could tell the weak link wasn't the valve body in the U340E. When the trans started going, it would rev high without much power transfer, basically not building hydraulic pressure. My guess was either the hydraulic pump was failing or the torque convertor had a leak.
The problem started when I had my thermastat go bad and overheat the engine. My thinking is that when the radiator overheated it also cooked the trans. fluid passing through the shared cooler (another reason to go stand-alone). if I were upgrading, I would do the torque convertor first, the aftermarket ones braze the fins inside instead of simple welding.
The problem started when I had my thermastat go bad and overheat the engine. My thinking is that when the radiator overheated it also cooked the trans. fluid passing through the shared cooler (another reason to go stand-alone). if I were upgrading, I would do the torque convertor first, the aftermarket ones braze the fins inside instead of simple welding.
10-05-2011, 09:49 PM
#11
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 707
I'm on my second transmission currently, and from what I could tell the weak link wasn't the valve body in the U340E. When the trans started going, it would rev high without much power transfer, basically not building hydraulic pressure. My guess was either the hydraulic pump was failing or the torque convertor had a leak.
The problem started when I had my thermastat go bad and overheat the engine. My thinking is that when the radiator overheated it also cooked the trans. fluid passing through the shared cooler (another reason to go stand-alone). if I were upgrading, I would do the torque convertor first, the aftermarket ones braze the fins inside instead of simple welding.
The problem started when I had my thermastat go bad and overheat the engine. My thinking is that when the radiator overheated it also cooked the trans. fluid passing through the shared cooler (another reason to go stand-alone). if I were upgrading, I would do the torque convertor first, the aftermarket ones braze the fins inside instead of simple welding.
As far as I know, Level 10 and IPT are not the same, so what "build" they do is different. In other cars, I've heard a lot of success stories with IPT, but I don't know much about Level 10. Also, the "build" that IPT does replaces all of the various parts of an automatic transmission. High stall torque converter, clutch packs, valve body modification, etc.
Finally, upgrading to an independant transmission oil cooler is important. The #1 killer of automatic transmissions are heat.
10-06-2011, 05:09 PM
#12
Our A/T code is U241E. Talk to IPT and see what they recommend for you. The flip side of a faster shifting VB upgrade is the potential to destroy the clutches from the sudden engagement with more tq than they were designed to handle. Allan Phillips (Allan Phillips Racing) told me how they destroyed a Taco trans very quickly by modifying the ECU for fast, firm shifts. The clutches no longer slipped but the friction surface was ripped off the clutches.
10-06-2011, 11:24 PM
#13
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 707
Oh, not sure how this helps or anything......but a lot of guys I know have had transmissions built by IPT (not for our Scions though) and they love them. IPT also happens to be 10 minutes away from me....but that doesn't really help you much 
10-08-2011, 04:49 AM
#15
Lookin' good Bro! I hope you don't have any issues with the FIC and fwiw you may want to read this TC thread about boosting with a U241E.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/scion-tc-1g-forced-induction-1645/turbocharging-your-t-official-end-all-sticky-74908/
Also know that the 2.5" TRD axle-back actually has a short 1.8-2.0" section where it meets the oem 1.8" mid-pipe. Eventually when you upgrade to larger exhaust you'll want to remove that also.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/scion-tc-1g-forced-induction-1645/turbocharging-your-t-official-end-all-sticky-74908/
Also know that the 2.5" TRD axle-back actually has a short 1.8-2.0" section where it meets the oem 1.8" mid-pipe. Eventually when you upgrade to larger exhaust you'll want to remove that also.
10-08-2011, 06:05 AM
#16
Lord knows I love sleepers! I went to my local drag strip tonight and like the last time it was a blast to have so many people come up and ask WTH I had under the hood! Your build sounds even steathier than mine. You'll surprise a lot of people.
You may not do any exhaust upgrades but if you do, you'll find that your turbo spools much faster, boost builds much faster and the end result is a quicker car. Then again, you may be satisfied with the oem exhaust. FWIW, 3" is optimal for power but very loud and hard to tame. You can run a 2.5" exhaust and still maintain the sleeper theme.
As dead as the XB2 FI section is, I may be as anxious as you are to see your completed build!
You may not do any exhaust upgrades but if you do, you'll find that your turbo spools much faster, boost builds much faster and the end result is a quicker car. Then again, you may be satisfied with the oem exhaust. FWIW, 3" is optimal for power but very loud and hard to tame. You can run a 2.5" exhaust and still maintain the sleeper theme.
As dead as the XB2 FI section is, I may be as anxious as you are to see your completed build!
10-08-2011, 09:43 PM
#17
Thanks Clean XB. I recall reading posts from a guy with a turbo'd A/T TC making close to 300 whp and he had like 2 years on the trans with no problems. I think that most of the guys who blew their autos were beating on them pretty hard. As long as the trans can hold the tq without slipping and you don't beat on it, it should hold up pretty well. Almost everyone told me that I couldn't run boost without a piggyback but 2 years later it still runs like a factory turbo car.
I agree, a boosted XB makes a great family car that's still fun for dad. No one expects much from an XB so it's a great little sleeper. Aside from an occasional trip to the drag strip I rarely ever race anyone. What I enjoy most is simply having the power to climb long hills without downshifting constantly and being able to pass idiots that don't want to be passed on the highways.
I'm looking forward to seeing and hearing more about your boosted family truckster! LOL
I agree, a boosted XB makes a great family car that's still fun for dad. No one expects much from an XB so it's a great little sleeper. Aside from an occasional trip to the drag strip I rarely ever race anyone. What I enjoy most is simply having the power to climb long hills without downshifting constantly and being able to pass idiots that don't want to be passed on the highways.
I'm looking forward to seeing and hearing more about your boosted family truckster! LOL
10-11-2011, 12:54 AM
#18
It's not very hard to change the ~$30 wastegate spring on the car but you wouldn't want to do it often. In your case you can remove the WG which is much easier and less likely that you'll lose any tiny allen bolts or damage the diaphragm. Keep in mind that the WG cap holds pre-load on the spring so be careful when removing it so it doesn't shoot off. Make sure to get a genuine Tial spring. Cheap springs lose their temper from the heat.
10-12-2011, 03:51 PM
#20
Lookin' good Bro! 230/220 is great for only 4psi. Autos are a PITA to tune. Everything has to remain in balance or the ECU won't shift correctly and on the dyno the auto keeps downshifting below ~4k rpm.
If you don't want to post your dyno sheets could you possibly PM or email them to me? I just want to compare them to mine for my own benefit.
Enjoy the new ride.
If you don't want to post your dyno sheets could you possibly PM or email them to me? I just want to compare them to mine for my own benefit.
Enjoy the new ride.