allenme

Searching, and searching, I saw a module here and there that would accomplish this for $30 and up, but I am a cheap bastard, so I reverted to my old stereo and alarm days, and decided to do some cuttin' and crimpin'. What's the worst that could happen, right? If this is posted elsewhere, I couldn't find it, not the way I had it in my head anyhow.

Items needed:

2ea = 4 or 5 pin 12v relay (mine came from Amazon with socket and wire harness)
Test light (wires are listed below, optional for verification)
Electrical Tape
Zip ties
Phillips screwdriver
Wire stripper/crimper
Various crimp connectors

Firstly, remove steering column shroud, giving you access to everything you need. I removed some of the factory zip ties and black tape to get some slack for ease of cutting and stripping the wires.

There is a connector going into the key assembly with two wires, the wire we want is blue, closest to the column at the rear face of the housing towards the driver, that is the -12v [KEY IN] trigger that will activate the relays. Cut (or T-tap) and splice leads to wire to pin 85 on the relays.

Next is the +12v feed for the relays, which being lazy I cut and spliced in the juicy fat white wire in the harness just below the key housing (2nd or 3rd one from the left on the bottom row). This lead will go to pin 86 of the relays, and will cause it to activate once the ground from the [KEY IN] trigger is activated by inserting the key.

Pin 30 on the relays will need a solid ground connection, which I ring terminaled to a phillips screw just under the door side of the column, it holds a plastic module of some sort. This will be the feed sent through to pin 87 once the relay is active.

From the first relay, splice a lead from pin 87 to the far left black thin guage wire in the molex connector coming off the turn signal/headlight lever.

From the second relay, splice a lead from pin 87 to the next white thin guage wire in the molex connector, just after the black one we just cut, coming off the turn signal/headlight lever.

Pin 87a on both relays is not used, and if you had a socked harness like mine, can be removed from the harness.

All connections completed, black taped, and new wire bundle tucked and zip tied, you can now enjoy the fun to be had that is replacing the steering shroud. Of course, you should have already verified that inserting the key now activates the exterior lighting. But, with only 4 wires involved, and finding a good grounding point, this is the simplest, least expensive daytime running light option I could envision, and took all of 20 minutes (I'm a bit rusty, and had to run for connectors).

Now my lazy ___ can forget about the tedious task of rotating the end of the turn signal lever to turn on and off the lights, and rest assured they are on whenever the key is in.

Hope this helps someone, I know I'm thrilled to have my daytime lights with auto cancel that I have become so accustomed to from previous vehicles.