Hello, this is my first day on the forum. I just want to introduce myself, Im Frank from Chula Vista (in San Diego county) California. Lovin my new xB! Especially when I see another xB, 1st gen or 2nd - doesnt matter, people usually say hi. Not usual in the busy city...
First, the car, lowered on Tanabe df210. Looking for wheels.

Alpine media center:

Beginning of amp rack. I used 3/4 MDF for the top 'frame' piece, and 1/4" melamine for the rest of it..

Amps countersunk:

Test fit:

Little primer, little spackle:

More primer:

Still got the spare:

Please ignore the blue wire! lol, I ran out of wire and need to get my but down to the store to get a piece long enough to run it underneath!

Digital cap, 0 gauge to 4 gauge splitter/fuseblock:

Home made wedge box with .65 cubic feet hollow, .49 with the woofer displacement:

Strapped in ghetto style. Im thinking of maybe mounting it to my seat - so when I fold the seat down, it will be screaming at the back of my head. lol

I am in the market for an Optima Yellowtop. When I get it, Ill get pics of it and the fuse block under the hood.. It just doesnt look right yet...
The 4 channel is an Alpine f600. It powers Alpine type R 6.5 components in front and Alpine Type R 5.25 coax in rear.
The mono amp is Alpine M1005. No longer made, but a beast in its day. 1000 watts mono. It powers a 12" Alpine type X. 1000w rms/3000 peak.
I have had many systems, more than one for each car/truck I have ever had, and this system in my box sounds the cleanest! I agree with another member who said the box just works good with a system.

-Frank

PS Please feel free to comment!

 

Looks good. I agree that the box is a good car for sound systems, but I have developed a nasty rattle somewhere in the back. The whole rear of the car, including the license plate, is sound deadened and trying to isolate where the rattle is coming from has been very problematic. I believe it is coming from the hatch, but I have the inside metal of the hatch coated and the inside of the plastic cover coated as well. I think it may be where the plastic tabs contact with the holes in the sheet metal. I will be gutting it again and using a liquid sound deadener sometime in the future

 

looking good man. can't wait to see the pix of the finished product

 

Im sorry, but would have looked so much better if you could have kept the cap and distribution block under the panel. They look out of place there. Other then that it is a nice set up.

 

Thanks for the comments..
NoLimitzInd, I hear ya, I could have built it to be hidden, but I had this great Idea to have the digital readout showing through the floor - so I can mash with the trunk open and watch so my voltage doesnt drop too low. I didnt plan on the distributor block to stick up too, but when I was done, it was so.
The cap is great, it does this dancing lights thing when the volts drop under 11v. Happens every bass note at high volumes but climbs right back up to 12.5 or so. Who knows, might come in handy at the drive in one day.

 

I changed from a sealed to a ported. Woot!

 

Great pics!

Love your poison arrow frog avatar btw...

 

How do you like ported now? Do you know the tuning and everything?
I'd recommend a little more port, but that's just me. Looks good, none the less!

 

I dont know much about tuning, This was my first ported box and I followed the reccomended measurements. 12 square inch port 24 inches long in that size enclosure supposedly makes 32hertz.

-Frank

 

Forgot to add,, It sounds and feels awesome!!

 

As long as it does that, you're golden! The technology that goes into those Type X drivers is pretty different. I've yet to hear one.
I've thought about getting a couple of the 12's, but I think this 1 15 will suit me just fine.
Keep it up!

 

Id love to show it off, if your in San Diego someday, let me know and you can hear it.

-Frank

 

Nice job.

 

NIce useage of the storage area for the equipment.

Gives me ideas on how to utilize the space there better
in my 2008 for my rover activities during amatuer radio contests.
Been looking for a way to hide some of my transmitting equipment
so as not to have it seen but still usable.

As for the digital display for voltage, why didn't you remote the
display onto one of the corners of the hatch window to be veiwable
without having to open the hatch or crawl in? I am not familiar with
these audio equipment components so I am wondering. You do seem
to be knowledgeable enough to be able to do that though.

James W8ISS

 

just saw this and man def a great looking system.


My car is in the shop getting

Alpine type R 6.5 components Front and Back

12" Alpine Type-X Sub with custom Subzone ported Box

Alpine MRP-F600 4-ch amp along with Alpine MRP-M1000 1-ch MONO AMP

JL Audio Wireing

Useing my avic F900-BT to control the sound.


def will post pic's once done,


Good luck with your system funny how i did not see this post b4,,, good luck with your set-up

 

yea frank, killer system, looks great. got a quick question....with the new head unit, do they make a plug and play wire harness to the stock one so you dont have to f around making splices everywhere? and...does your steering wheel controls still work, along with the ipod connection?

 

09xb24, The original ipod jack doesnt work.. I ran my new Ipod cable to the glove box. Yes they make a harness so Its quite easy to wire up and plug in. Get a toyota wire harness. If I bought a $50 part, I would have use of my steering wheel controls, but I havent had the money to do that yet.

Swiss, I dont think the digital display comes off of the capacitor. If it does, thats a great idea!

Drew, that thing is gonna bump!

Thanks for the comments guys..

 

Great work, just one suggestion, a flat paint might look better than the gloss. Or attach some fabric to match the interior.

 

do you have problems with your box moving around during sharp turns or quick turns? did you bolt it down? looks good overall man congrats!

 

akxb, I agree, the flat black on my truck box looks better than the gloss in my xb.

bego, If you look at the third from last picture in my earlier post where you see the box ontop of the amprack, you can see the silver brackets that hold it in place. They are flat brackets, drilled up into the bottom of the box hanging off halfway, and screwed down to the amprack.