OK Boys...

Pictures to follow....

1) I removed the low hanging bracket that supported the "computer" that is used to determine if a person is in the seat. The computer was relocated above the cross-member and secured.
2) I then routed all of the wires against the seat bottom and zip-tied them to the metal seat spring/mesh.
3)Finally, becuase the sub was a bit large, I gently bent forward the cross member to allow more breathing room for the sub.

Result...

1) The G5 is too damn BIG....I should not complain, I picked it...but it is large and the foam surround is really "tall". Long story short...the sub fits GREAT as long as you do not move the seat.
2) I have concluded that IF someone moves the seat (which moves perfectly by the way - GREAT BOX DESIGN)...then I will simply not turn the sub on. The seat, when moved forward, DOES touch the surround of the sub. Every 1/8" counts on this project.
3) BUT, when the seat is back, the sub is simply incredible. I have 500 Watts through a Polk 300.2 amp (bridged). I have yet to increase the gain to more than 50%. The sound is fabulous. I cannot believe that the sub sounds so good in such a small enclosure. I suspect that the design of Boston's sub is that it leverages the airspace of the car to make the bass becuase it is a miracle.
4) I am thinking of starting a new blog... MobileBigOhhh.com After testing the sub with females in the passenger seat, I can only describe as it being identical to the scene in Howard Stern's movie "Private Parts"....go watch it, you will get it.

Enjoy!!!!!!!

 

post pics! i'm thinking of a doing a down firing set up with mb subs under both driver and passenger seat.

thinking of using these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MB-QUART-RSH254-10-800-Watt-Car-Subwoofer-Sub_W0QQitemZ350114092434QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item350114092434&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

 

ppgrande, great work, you've made me proud! Looks like you solved your own questions. Let me know if you still have any lingering questions...

 

Does anyone have another link for the blue prints. This one doesn't seem to work for me.

 

aka 32Hz, the wet note

 

Here's the finished product:


Here's a screenshot of the model:


Not sure how to upload the sketchup file...

 

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...e59efd5187fdee

Here's the Sketchup File uploaded to the Google Sketchup 3d Warehouse

Enjoy!

 

Excuse all the posts, just wanted to note that I fixed the link and pictures on the first couple posts that had become broken over the years. Enjoy, this is a rad project!

 

So, I'm a little confused... The underside of the seat does or does not require some modification to fit this enclosure? Does the speaker rub or vibrate against the structure of the seat? Can you move the seat forward and back without interference from the enclosure or rubbing of the speaker? Is there room for a speaker grille to prevent damage to the speaker? Are there any long-term issues from using 1/2" vs 3/4 MDF? My hopes are that since this is an old post, these questions can be answered. Seems like a great design. I have a 10" sub and 500 watt amp already and I have a great local stereo shop that could whip one up in a jiffy. Thanks!

 

- There is a sensor on the underside of the seat that needs to be moved. If I remember correctly I had to unscrew a bolt or drill out a rivet and zip tie the sensor in a slightly different spot.
- The speaker does NOT rub against the seat provided the surround isn't too large. Someone else built this enclosure and used a Boston G5 and that extra 1/4"-1/2" made it rub with the seat in certain positions. When the seat is in its normal sitting position (not all the way toward the dash) there is a few inches of space above the speaker.
- The seat has it's full range of motion with no problems. When the seat is all the way forward, the back of the seat is right over the sub and it hangs down a bit, it's within 1/4" to 1/2" of the surround at this point.
- If a speaker grill was used you might have to remove the seat to slide the enclosure in and out. The tolerances are very tight
- The 1/2" MDF is holding up very well. The enclosure does not vibrate or resonate at all. It is one of the stiffest enclosures I have built. I attribute that to plenty of construction adhesive when being built AND the fact that the dimensions are so small. There are simply no large panels to vibrate, in other words if I give you a full sheet of MDF you'll be able to bend it no problem. If I give you a 6" piece of MDF you won't be able to flex it at all.
- This is a pretty small box. You need a subwoofer that is built to work well in a sealed 0.5 cubic foot enclosure, that's too small for most 10s. Also the tolerances are tight here. If the magnet on the sub is too long it won't fit in the box. With the tight tolerances I would still recommend the Boston G3 (make sure it's not a new version with different dimensions) If you are going to pay someone a few hundred bucks to build the box, you may as well get a subwoofer that will sound good in it. If you don't mind me asking what subwoofer do you have? I could tell you if it will work well.

 

I have a couple of old (circa 2000), but in very good working order, Image Dynamics IDQ 10's that I had in my reg cab S-10 with a very small sealed enclosure (that used to house 2 JL Audio 10W6's) and a Memphis Class D 500 watt amp. I know I won't be able to blast the gain since they are a 250-300 watt max RMS speaker but the sound quality was exceptional in their day. I've even thought about putting the one under the seat and putting the other in a "stealth" style box in the cargo area. That should rattle the teeth.

 

I'd say go ahead and build it, the subs fit as they are only 4.5 inches deep, and I've only ever heard good things about theIDQ10. They work well in a small box, (they even handle more power in a small box) and your Memphis amp is solid. Go for it! If it turns out that you need more SPL, you can always think about swapping the sub at a later date!