DJ_FroZone

iTrader: (2)

So i noticed today and yesterday (thanks scionfred for helping with the header) That when i shift down in my automatic I.e engine brake. when i get to 2nd down to first. I hear this very odd grind noise from right underneath the pedals. or if i put it in reverse and accelerate. Its real quick. Anyone have any ideas, I have a header/cat/intake and all that but i dont think that would effect my tranny?

If i can i will get sound. Shifting up its only happened once. but def 2nd to first is a nice big grind n vibrate through the pedal area.

papo

easy fix. just put i in "D" and drive normal.

STlTCHES

shifting an auto while moving is never really a good idea.

divisii

Actually, within limits, shifting really won't affect the life of the tranny appreciably. The ATF fluid controls most of the transitioning between the gears in an automatic, yet it is possible to wear the physical parts of the tranny out. IMO, make sure you switch to a good quality fluid.
When I had a grinding like that before it was the A/C clutch.

DJ_FroZone

iTrader: (2)

well i have almost 15000 miles and i got in feburary. so which fluids do you mean switch? your not talkingabout flushing my tranny at 15,000 are you?

draxcaliber

well, in general, you don't downshift to 1st gear until you come to a stop. 1st gear is a very powerful gear there to get the car off the line from a complete stop. in the 5 speed tc, there is actually a gear guard to keep you from getting into 1st gear at too high of a speed, and it is very hard to get into unless you are nearly stopped. when you're engine braking a manual tranmission, you usually coast in 2nd gear until you come to a stop, and then put it in 1st gear.

my mom's subaru legacy gt has a 5 speed sport shift auto, and 1st gear in that car is very low, on it's own, the car actually starts in 2nd for normal driving it seems. anyway, the sport shift in the auto xb is really just a stupid add on that i really think toyota just added on because people wanted it and think it is better when it isn't. if you want to change your own gears, get a manual, if you don't, get an auto and then live with the buyers remorse for the rest of your life.

TheCCBox

iTrader: (1)

Take it to the dealer easy fix LOL!!!! Also agree with leave it in "D" and drive normal LOL!!!!

buickid

2nd to 1st should be done at a stop, or very low speeds, ie <10MPH if you really have to. Better to just leave it alone and let it do its job.
Also read my post in this thread: https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=162168

jnaval

The xB2 has the sequential shift transmission.

buickid

Its not really a sequential shift transmission. Its just a plain old automagic slush box with a shifter that shifts +1 -1 at a time. Just like your grandma's Camry has D/3/2/L etc, the Scion only differs in appearance. You could do what the Scion does by going from D to 3, then one more to 2, then to L. The Scion's shifter is just another way of downshifting when going down a hill, etc.
Not to be mistake for a Porsche DSG or similar, actually built for high-performance driving.

jnaval

That's why it's called "sequential shift" because you can only shift in sequence, +1 or -1. At least I didn't call it "sport shift" like alot of people do, just sayin'.

kidd

i found downshifting at 2000 rpm works well. hopefully i'll get 100,000mi out of my pads and rotors.

Jan06xB

Could be some motor mount windup making something rub or you have a bad first gear or clutch - check your tranny fluid for darkness or tiny metal flakes. Downshifting an automatic should not be a problem since the gears are always meshing and it is just the clutches taking a little wear.

Try keeping it in first gear and accelerate and decelerate while getting the engine up to 4k rpm and see it it still makes the same noise - that would indicate it is the gears and not the clutch since the clutch would be constantly engauged . . . unless the clutch is slipping.

DJ_FroZone

iTrader: (2)

hmm i wil try that. about it being auto i didn't think downshifitting would bug it at all. Imma try the first gear to 4k. and how do i check the tranny fluid?

CIONIDE

iTrader: (1)

With the "DIP" stick...




I had to FroZone.


http://www.ehow.com/video_104_check-...nsmission.html

jnaval

The "T" dipstick! Oil is an "O" dipstick. Intentional? Perhaaaaps.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

I totally agree with the idea that one should never shift from 2nd to 1st unless the car is essentially stopped -- shifting it at 5 mph is still too fast. Also, you should never select 1st gear for engine braking. 2nd is the lowest that should ever be used in that fashion. Be nice to your car and your wallet, only use 1st for pulling out from a stop, nothing else.

DJ_FroZone

iTrader: (2)

ahh well take that into consideration. thanks guys and i never thought about the t and o thing. thats sick

Jan06xB

Geee I go down my friend's driveway in Vermont that's about 900 feet long and in first gear it revs to about 4k - I'm talking steep - going up I am spinning the wheels most of the way up going 15-20mph in a manual tranny. This is second gen with more HP and the tranny should be able to handle a little deceleration without breaking apart since engine braking puts no where near the load on the gears as acceleration does.
The tranny dipstick should be to the driver side of the engine compartment - Engine oil dipstick to the passenger side.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

The question isn't referring to allowing the engine to provide braking when in first gear, but rather, deliberately downshifting into first for the purpose of using engine braking. If more braking is needed while in second, then apply the service brakes. Shifting down to first for engine braking isn't normally a good practice for either automatic or manual transmissions. You can't even expect to have the necessary gear synchronization to support that shift. It's just not a normal design intent for first gear.

PS. The true purpose of down shifting for engine braking is to protect against service brake heating, which can result in fading and possibly brake failure. It takes very little additional brake to augment second gear (no overheat risk), and so there's no practical advantage to selecting first gear for engine braking -- and so the design doesn't typically support it.