**Tanabe DF210 Springs Thread**
#121
If you have extra sets of stock shocks, then run them instead of buying new ones.
I ran my Hotchkis springs on my OEM shocks and struts for about 70k miles. Never had a problem besides my front Hotchkis springs cracking.
I ran my Hotchkis springs on my OEM shocks and struts for about 70k miles. Never had a problem besides my front Hotchkis springs cracking.
#123
My 11 had bumpstops on the front and rear stock suspension....the rears are under the sleeves...Mines has only 9k on them....(stocks before coilovers)
As you can see Raceland upgrades front and rear shocks with bigger ones than factory which is why the factory stut top nuts don't work...I was glad to be installing bigger new ones that they provided.
As you can see Raceland upgrades front and rear shocks with bigger ones than factory which is why the factory stut top nuts don't work...I was glad to be installing bigger new ones that they provided.
#125
#129
+48 is the offset of the wheel, you can't change that. Get the springs on & see how you like the look of the wheels. If you decide you want to push the rears out later, you can always add spacers.
#133
#134
hey guys i've been spinning my wheels and was convinced i was gonna get NF's but after seeing the pics on here i'm convinced I want DF's.. im just worried about my rear tires (245/40 on 18x9) rubbing.. will it?
here are some pics of the rear wheel in comparison to the fender if this helps
here are some pics of the rear wheel in comparison to the fender if this helps
#135
#137
Based on the pics, it looks like you probably will rub, but a little fender roll & pull should take care of it.
#140
The installation instructions that come with the springs tell you to cut the bump stops so you probably should. As far as replacing the shocks, I have been running the stock shocks and the ride is pretty damn good IMO. But hey if you got the extra cheddar then you might as well put in the Tokicos at the same time.