Im not so sure about shorter shocks. The valve still sits in the tub performing its job granted its valved correctly. Cupping is toe related and lack of rotation. I just made custom shims for my rear to bring push out the (negative) camber which toyota says is within specs but remember. Handling plays a big part in the negative camber settings however, I dont own a race care and when 4 tires costs slightly over 1000. ill take the best way possible to extend the life of mine.

 

I'm planning on shimming to get rid of the toe.

What was the OD of your shim? I'm too lazy to pull off my wheel, caliper, rotor, and hub just to measure the bolt.

 

I used a shim kit, it was the lowest they had. here is where it came from CLICK ME

Been a long time vegan, you curb those nice red wheels yet? I swear I haven't hit anything but I have scraps on mine.. god damn roads!

 

DOnt know why that link didnt work but try this one or just enter your car info and it will bring it up. SHIMS

 

Just the yellow SPC one? Was it decent to install? I want to keep my camber, maybe increase it, but get rid of the toe.

 

The shim is offset and you can remove the tabs depending on what you are trying to accomplish. PITA part is you want to do it once after pulling the wheel and hub and re calibrating the alignment heads. The thing in the rear of those cars is that the smallest degree makes a large difference. If suspension geometry isnt your thing, I suggest having someone who really understands this do the work.

 

I hear you on that action, I don't want to replace tires every 20kmiles. Rotated my tires the other day. They weren't as bad as I first thought once I had them off the car to really examine them. I suppose I'll rotate them every other oil change instead of every 3.

My philosophy with shorter shocks is that with that the factory ones are compressed more now and have less of a compression cycle. I guess that would be a bigger factor to consider if you were to run shocks that have control and comfort zones.