TRD Strut Tower Brace Install(56K...not Today)
So I thought the install was going to take about 10 minutes. After realizing that the cowl and wiper assembly needed to be pulled apart, I thought I would create a how to. It still was pretty easy, and took probably an hour with taking a bunch of pictures. I also installed the TRD rear sway bar, so if anyone is interested, I can post that one too. I haven't had a chance to really test them yet, since this was chicagoland weather yesterday...

Anyway, the roads were terrible and it explains why my car is not the cleanest.
But here is the install:
Tools:
Socket set with 10mm, 12mm, 14mm. Install kit included with Strut Tower brace
Here's my 100% stock engine bay

I tried to "cheat" by just fitting the brace under the cowl, but it didn't work, so I took the long way.
The first step to to pop off the plastic clips that hide the bolts to the wipers. Remove the plastic clips, remove bolts, and pull wipers off.

Next, you'll need to remove the plastic(top) part of the cowl. Its easy to remove. There are two fastners that need to be removed and it seperates in half and just pulls up. The fastners are on either side of the engine bay, and look like this...

Here's a pic of the upper cowl piece removed...

This will show the wiper assembly. The first thing you should do it unclip the wiring harness. There are 2 bolts that hold the wiper assembly in place on either end. The pictures show the rubber grommet after the bolts have been removed.


This next picture shows the lower cowl piece with the wiper assembly removed. It also shows the several bolts that need to be removed to pull this piece out.

This piece pulls right out, and reveals the strut tower bolts...

Next, install the strut tower brace using the bolts that are included

The rest is just putting it back together. First, reinstall the lower cowl and install all bolts.

Reinstall the wiper assembly with the two bolts, and plug in wiring harness

Clip the plastic upper cowl in place and put both fastners back in, reinstall wipers, and you are done.

Overall pretty easy install. The rear was much easier. Again, if anyone is interested, I can type up the install for the rear. Hope it helps! -H9

Anyway, the roads were terrible and it explains why my car is not the cleanest.
But here is the install:
Tools:
Socket set with 10mm, 12mm, 14mm. Install kit included with Strut Tower brace
Here's my 100% stock engine bay

I tried to "cheat" by just fitting the brace under the cowl, but it didn't work, so I took the long way.
The first step to to pop off the plastic clips that hide the bolts to the wipers. Remove the plastic clips, remove bolts, and pull wipers off.

Next, you'll need to remove the plastic(top) part of the cowl. Its easy to remove. There are two fastners that need to be removed and it seperates in half and just pulls up. The fastners are on either side of the engine bay, and look like this...

Here's a pic of the upper cowl piece removed...

This will show the wiper assembly. The first thing you should do it unclip the wiring harness. There are 2 bolts that hold the wiper assembly in place on either end. The pictures show the rubber grommet after the bolts have been removed.


This next picture shows the lower cowl piece with the wiper assembly removed. It also shows the several bolts that need to be removed to pull this piece out.

This piece pulls right out, and reveals the strut tower bolts...

Next, install the strut tower brace using the bolts that are included

The rest is just putting it back together. First, reinstall the lower cowl and install all bolts.

Reinstall the wiper assembly with the two bolts, and plug in wiring harness

Clip the plastic upper cowl in place and put both fastners back in, reinstall wipers, and you are done.

Overall pretty easy install. The rear was much easier. Again, if anyone is interested, I can type up the install for the rear. Hope it helps! -H9
Originally Posted by miketf1
was the cowl/wiper disassembly hard?
I'll work on the rear sway bar write up and get that posted....
I did just take the car out for a quick spin around the block, and it is a noticable difference. Much more level around the turns, and I'm assuming that when I install the TRD springs the rest of the body roll issue will be solved. It seems that to have helped the understeer a bit, and there is more steering response during quick cornering. The only problem is now the XB outhandles OEM tires. As soon as spring rolls around, I'll be trying to get out of the 55 series tires.
I did just take the car out for a quick spin around the block, and it is a noticable difference. Much more level around the turns, and I'm assuming that when I install the TRD springs the rest of the body roll issue will be solved. It seems that to have helped the understeer a bit, and there is more steering response during quick cornering. The only problem is now the XB outhandles OEM tires. As soon as spring rolls around, I'll be trying to get out of the 55 series tires.
Well, getting the nuts off wasn't the problem, it was getting the strut tower brace over the bolts and not scraping the cowl. And I'm ****....I'm glad I took the cowl apart to properly torque the nuts; my torque wrench wouldn't have fit
Originally Posted by JRT
I installed the strut bar without removeing cowl assy. I have the trd strut bar, sway bar and springs works great. may get the trd shocks if they come down in price.
Great 'how-to' post anyway. I suppose it's better to remove the cowl assy but not really necessary.
This is the only way to ensure you can torque the bolts up to the correct spec, right? I installed mine on my tc by jacking up the car a bit. But when putting it back together, I'm not getting the correct torque settings because I used a wrench .
Just drove my xb2 after installing the tower strut bar. It steers with more precision. It goes where I point it without the slop.
The stock setup tended to understeer into the turn which made me correct it which would cause an oversteer while coming out of the turn--leading to another quick correction.
The new setup seems to have less of this problem. The box tracks better now.
Next will be the rear sway bar installation.
I'm no expert so this is the best description that I can provide.
The stock setup tended to understeer into the turn which made me correct it which would cause an oversteer while coming out of the turn--leading to another quick correction.
The new setup seems to have less of this problem. The box tracks better now.
Next will be the rear sway bar installation.
I'm no expert so this is the best description that I can provide.
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