Scionlife.com - Changing Transmission Oil and Filter 2010 XD

Hello:

I thought I would share a quick update on my experience changing the transmission filter, transmission oil pan gasket, and drainplug on my 2010 SCION XD.

First, I did a lot of prepping, by watching as many videos as possible and reading various posts.

The two best videos on the process are below

, and

These are the best I could find for a visual overview.

You won't need an extensive amount of tools, I used a 3/8 drive ratchet, short extension, long extension, a standard 10mm socket, and either a 3/8 or 10 mm hex bit socket to remove the drain plug.

Materials cost about 90.00 and included 3 quarts of Toyota WS ATF, a new drain plug and crush washer, and a WIX filter and gasket kit.

I also opted to get some Permatex weatherstripping adhesive, and brake cleaner, more on why later.

In addition, shop towels (it will get messy, it's unavoidable) and a 10-pack of nitrile gloves.

From what I understand you don't HAVE to replace the drain plug but you should replace the crush washer. I opted for both since it was just as cheap as a package of crush washers.

You will be raising the front end of the car, either with the floor jack and stands, or car ramps, I have used my car ramps for all self-repairs. BE SAFE! Take your time to check the stability.

Having a battery-powered ratchet WILL speed the removal process, but to ensure you get no leaks after the reinstall, you will need enough time to carefully tension the 19 bolts around the circumference of the transmission pan, I would recommend you take the time to do this without trying to beat the clock.

Especially in the removal of the tiny pan bolts, which could drop and roll out of your eyesight. Then you have trouble without any spares.

I also got a thick piece of cardboard to catch overspills, because you won't capture everything neatly in the pan, especially when removing the three bolts that hold the transmission filter in.

First I let the car warm up a bit before draining any oil.

Once you are gloved up and in old clothes, with the car safely jacked up and supported, you will first remove the splash guard, held in by three or four 10 MM self-tapping screws and two 10 mm bolts in the driver's side upper wheel well. The splashguard also extends along the front bumper. (If the link doesn't work, copy and paste YouTube links below as they are cued to the relevant portion)

youtu.be/j7FJxoMYl0Q?si=PQUiZPkeTH8YJb4E&t=48

Have a flashlight handy to note how the splashguard is tucked into the upper portion, it intersects with two other plastic pieces.

This is necessary because until you remove the entire splashguard you won't have access to all 19 transmission gasket bolts. Getting this annoyance out of the way first is something I recommend.

The next step is to use your 3/8 or 10mm hex bit socket to remove the drain plug, and let the fluid drain fully out before starting the gasket bolt removal process.

Once the fluid is drained, keep that pan or a spare one handy and remove the 19 bolts holding the transmission oil pan in place. Take caution as you approach the removal of the last bolt, as the pan will let go, so have a hand ready to catch it before it falls into the pan your dirty oil is drained into.

Now, you can opt to remove the filter, or inspect the pan and mount the new rubber gasket.

I opted to take out the old filter first, very simple, held in by three bolts. You will need to observe where the "O" ring on the old transmission filter is and make sure to remove it, mine fell into the pan on the removal of the filter. The point is to account for it. I could see it because I use a shallow drain pan with a plug, which I also recommend.

Next, I installed the new filter.

First I used a bit of ATF fluid on the new "O" Ring and slid it over the stub on the top side of the filter to get a proper seal.

youtu.be/Py_PFOPaOaE?si=ZPrYwltfUTALAzyt&t=278

This is critical.

Next, I hand-tightened the three bolts, don't worry about orientation, there is only one way the new filter can face to line up with the bolt mounting holes. Just make sure to note the top and bottom orientation when you take out the old filter.

With the bolts tightened and a new filter installed, I next noted the condition of the elements in the pan. Two magnets are tucked into two indents on the slanted and flat surfaces of the pan, and what you don't want to see is an excessive amount of filings and metal shreds, I was pleased to see that I saw little or nothing "captured" in the pan.

If you DO see a lot of shiny metal fragments it might be advisable to stop and have a pro transmission shop check it.

Noting no metal shreddings or filings, I used brake cleaner to soak some shop towels, thoroughly wiped out the pan interior, as well as cleaned the mating surface the gasket sits on. Note the pan side has a ridge running around the circumference of the pan, it is designed to press and the rubber gasket evenly.

The next step is optional, but I'm pretty sure it saved me time and frustration:

Again, a SMALL amount will be sufficient, I barely squeezed the tube!

Once the gasket set, I pressed around the diameter and aligned the gasket holes with the oil pan holes, and once I felt confident the gasket wasn't going to slip out of alignment I started installing six or 6 or 8 bolts, hand tightening only while checking that the gasket was still aligned. Top to bottom, side to side, (X pattern) I slowly brought the pan up without fully tightening. Then I added the other bolts in until all of them were hand-tight. I used my long extension, ratchet, and 10mm socket to torque the bolts into place.

I recommend going slow on this moving top to bottom side to side in an X pattern making sure the bolts aren't slack at any point.

This is where a powered, battery-operated ratchet may help, and save time, but not having one, I just moved around the pattern until they were torqued snugly by feel.

Make sure the drain plug is also snug and in place, and you can lower the cars off the jack stands or car ramps to level.

I started with two quarts for the initial refill and then started the engine.

(I nearly panicked when my funnel went missing, make sure you have it handy, one that has a tube thin enough to seat into the transmission refill tube! Otherwise, you will be pouring expensive fluid everywhere it doesn't belong!)

With the parking brake engaged, and my foot on the brake, I shifted SLOWLY through the gears two or three times to work the new fluid through the transmission.

Next, I checked for leaks and checked the level, added about one-quarter of a quart more, and took it for a test drive.

Smoother shifting was noted immediately, and after driving a few miles I came home and checked the levels again for leaks. All good so far.

In total, I used 2.6 quarts of ATF. (Answering my own question above)

I hope this wasn't too long-winded, but I wanted to document this procedure and cover contingencies that might arise.

It's a LOT easier than I imagined, and if you want to save some bucks, I encourage "experienced" DIY people to do it themselves.

Hope it helps, as this is FAR less expensive than transmission problems resulting from dirty fluid!
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