HOW-TO REMOVE DASH FOR AMP WIRE
#25
Can someone help me? (an xD owner) i have a 2008 turbo's xD. and my power steering light, and ABS light is on. A/C is not working and radiator fan wont kick on.
So as you can imagine a fuse panel diagram would be a lot of help right now and i cant really get back on the road with out one.
So if someone could please take out there fuse panel under the steering wheel and upload a picture of it I would greatly appreciate it
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So as you can imagine a fuse panel diagram would be a lot of help right now and i cant really get back on the road with out one.
So if someone could please take out there fuse panel under the steering wheel and upload a picture of it I would greatly appreciate it
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 05-17-2019 at 07:41 PM. Reason: Awarded 10 Yr Badge
#30
I removed the needles, which you have to do, to replace the face. Make sure you put them back correctly for accurate speedo numbers. Hope you didn't but anything from xbgauges.com
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
#32
#33
When you remove the Dash is the pass. side cup holder in view under the top part of the dash?
The one in my wife's xD wont come out anymore so figured I would pull the dash and fix it.
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The one in my wife's xD wont come out anymore so figured I would pull the dash and fix it.
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 05-17-2019 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Awarded 10 Yr Badge
#36
I ran my Amp wire thru the same access point with a few less steps..
Not putting down the whole dash removal thing 'cuz it was a very nice and detailed write up, but..............I ran my Amp wire thru the same access point with a few less steps.
1) Open Hood
2) Remove the small plastic cover and rubber seal over the Master cylinder by unclipping both tabs.
3) Remove the POSITIVE cable from the battery to give you a little more room and maybe loosen up the battery for even more wiggle room.
4) Take a strong wire hanger from the closet and cut/bend to straighten out about 16 or so inches. Make a loop at one end to use as a handle and grip.
5) Using a little duct tape (not too much) attach the end of the cable GOING TO the amp to the end of the wire, not past the end, but just shy of the end, leaving about 1/8" of wire then amp cable.
6) Align the amp cable below at the 6:00 position (straight down) and the wire hanger tip at the 12:00 position (straight up)....orienting this custom devise is very important...Ha, HA..... push the hanger rod with both hands,
one guiding the tip, the other pushing from the back "Looped" end and carefully penetrate the inside of the grommets inner diameter without causing any damage to the main harness.
....the above comments sound dangerous, and they can be if your careless or impatient or just an unskilled goof, so caution. It's not really that tough, but proximity to the main harness should warrant some caution.
7) Once thru, push a bit more so you can grab it with you hands when your upside down under the steering wheel. Seriously, UPSIDE DOWN. Remove the duct tape and then pull the hanger back out, return the cap over the master and WHAAAAAA LAAAAAA, Good to go.
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1) Open Hood
2) Remove the small plastic cover and rubber seal over the Master cylinder by unclipping both tabs.
3) Remove the POSITIVE cable from the battery to give you a little more room and maybe loosen up the battery for even more wiggle room.
4) Take a strong wire hanger from the closet and cut/bend to straighten out about 16 or so inches. Make a loop at one end to use as a handle and grip.
5) Using a little duct tape (not too much) attach the end of the cable GOING TO the amp to the end of the wire, not past the end, but just shy of the end, leaving about 1/8" of wire then amp cable.
6) Align the amp cable below at the 6:00 position (straight down) and the wire hanger tip at the 12:00 position (straight up)....orienting this custom devise is very important...Ha, HA..... push the hanger rod with both hands,
one guiding the tip, the other pushing from the back "Looped" end and carefully penetrate the inside of the grommets inner diameter without causing any damage to the main harness.
....the above comments sound dangerous, and they can be if your careless or impatient or just an unskilled goof, so caution. It's not really that tough, but proximity to the main harness should warrant some caution.
7) Once thru, push a bit more so you can grab it with you hands when your upside down under the steering wheel. Seriously, UPSIDE DOWN. Remove the duct tape and then pull the hanger back out, return the cap over the master and WHAAAAAA LAAAAAA, Good to go.
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 05-17-2019 at 10:08 PM. Reason: Awarded 5 Yr Badge
#37
^^ Try that with 0 Gauge wire and you might not agree that it is so possible. Taking the dash off is pretty easy so, why not. I simply cannot get my hand and arm up there far enough to do what you are saying.
Removing the whole wiper assembly was what I needed to do to even get to the grommet. I originally ran a 4 Gauge wire through there, then after that when I upgraded to my 0gauge I only had to take the wiper assembly off.
I just used the old 4 Gauge to pull the 0 Gauge through.
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Removing the whole wiper assembly was what I needed to do to even get to the grommet. I originally ran a 4 Gauge wire through there, then after that when I upgraded to my 0gauge I only had to take the wiper assembly off.
I just used the old 4 Gauge to pull the 0 Gauge through.
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 05-17-2019 at 10:10 PM. Reason: Awarded 10 Yr Badge
#38
This made life easier yesterday. I tried doing without removing wipers and all but its near impossible. maybe if I had used a coathanger first. I didnt remove the dash though. I cant remember the gauge of wire but it was pretty thick.
#40
I followed the steps here to remove dash and run a 0 guage wire through the firewall. Much appreciated help, going to make installing my stacked amps under the passenger's seat much easier next weekend. xD