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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 03:37 AM
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Default Simple Sub add on...

So has anyone added a sub to thier factory head unit?

I know it may not be the best stereo in some peoples opinion, but I like it.

I want to know if anyone has had Toyota or other install the power, ground, remote, and rca wires, and how much it cost.

Also, not sure if doing myself will void the warranty...

thx
Old Aug 27, 2010 | 04:53 AM
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mm well i had done it on my first tc a while ago. aside from the normal sub/amp/wiring, you will need i think its called a line out converter for the rca's. it just splices into your rear speaker wiring to create rca outputs. wasnt too hard to do yourself. it sounded ok but just before i removed it the sub would cut in and out. i think it had to with the speed sensing volume thingy.
Old Aug 27, 2010 | 05:01 AM
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Im runing a sub like that it sounds good not the greatest but i gets the job done for sure.
Old Aug 27, 2010 | 11:31 AM
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I have a sub in my xD. 12" dual coil Infinity. 2 ohm displacement.

I run a 1000W kenwood mono amp. It's so easy to install. The question is, what head unit do you have? Do you have RCA outputs on the back of it? There is usually 3 on the back of the unit, front back, and sub RCA's. make sure you hook to the right one if you do it.

I did it myself, and it only took about an hour to run all the wires. My ground is the "hook" thing on the left side under the hatch door. My remote wire is hooked to my rear wiper, the remote wire only needs a 12 V input from somewhere, but the question is, do you want the sub on while the key is on the "radio" setting, or on when car is running. Mine is the latter.

It's actually not hard to do at all. There are some simple "how-to's" on here. Save yourself some money, get to know your car, and do it yourself!!!
Old Aug 29, 2010 | 08:42 PM
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hehe I hear ya on the DIY, just don't wanna mess with any warranty issues. How did you do the power wire? I want this car to be cleansville.
Old Aug 30, 2010 | 01:35 AM
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Through the firewire grommet behind the steering wheel, along the driver side door panels, up along the back seat, and to the amp.
Old Aug 30, 2010 | 05:54 PM
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I ran mine through the fire wall (was a pain) and down the center console under the carpet completely hidden :p
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 03:47 AM
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are you guys getting any alternator noise?

is there a certain way to run the rca cables vs. power (like opposite sides)?
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Postmaster_G
are you guys getting any alternator noise?

is there a certain way to run the rca cables vs. power (like opposite sides)?

ran mine all together. hardest part was where the driver seatbelt is. The B pillar.

Negative on the alternator noise.
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 03:17 PM
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if you want to do it right the first time then just pull the dash and run it down the center console and run your rca down the left side and power and remote down the right side. it took me about 2 hours maybe less to do this and i do not regret it at all it much cleaner and i didnt have to take out any seats or carpet to pull this off just the dash and center console and it was surprisingly easy
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 07:42 PM
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The power against the RCA's is only really an issue with the cheapest of wires. The main thing that will cause alternator whine is a bad ground. The best thing to do before you finish your install is select your ground and then start the car. Use a Multimeter to measure the current on the graund wire to make sure it is as close to 0V as possible. Move it around to find the lowest value anywhere and try to keep your ground cable short.
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SparksAI
The power against the RCA's is only really an issue with the cheapest of wires. The main thing that will cause alternator whine is a bad ground. The best thing to do before you finish your install is select your ground and then start the car. Use a Multimeter to measure the current on the graund wire to make sure it is as close to 0V as possible. Move it around to find the lowest value anywhere and try to keep your ground cable short.

exactly. my wiring harness kit was the $10 one from walmart. 10 gauge power wire, 10 gauge ground (that's only 2 ft long) and nice double wrapped RCA plugs. i ran it all together down the driver side, ground is hooked to the "flat tire anchor" on the back of the hatch on the driver side. I'll take pics and show you sometime when I can pull it apart again.

Something I find weird from my 08 xD to my now 10 xD, when the sub hits, the lights used to dim in my 08 xD, they don't in my 10 xD. of course, it was wired 4 ohm back then, now i have it at 2 ohm impedance. deeper richer bass, much clearer, but not as hard hitting.

like i said, i'll give ya pics soon when i can get them. this setup seems to be working for me with no problems.
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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Over time your battery may lose amperage and your dimming lights might return. The best way to combat it is do a big three upgrade and just keep an eye on the battery. If you start seeing dimming after the big three upgrade it is usually because the battery has lost too much amperage to support the additional power load while hitting. The other thing that might have been different from your 08 to the 10 is the battery discharge rate. You want a battery that discharges faster. That is why if you want optima battiers you always buy the red top instead of the yellow because it discharges faster.
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by SparksAI
Over time your battery may lose amperage and your dimming lights might return. The best way to combat it is do a big three upgrade and just keep an eye on the battery. If you start seeing dimming after the big three upgrade it is usually because the battery has lost too much amperage to support the additional power load while hitting. The other thing that might have been different from your 08 to the 10 is the battery discharge rate. You want a battery that discharges faster. That is why if you want optima battiers you always buy the red top instead of the yellow because it discharges faster.

i'm looking at getting a 1 or 2 farad capacitor. not sure what size i would like to get yet. i'm thinking somewhat bigger due to being a 1000 W amp.
Old Sep 6, 2010 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JJGeneral1
i'm looking at getting a 1 or 2 farad capacitor. not sure what size i would like to get yet. i'm thinking somewhat bigger due to being a 1000 W amp.

I would add a second battery (or high output alt) before I would ever add a capacitor.
Old Sep 7, 2010 | 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Swbari00
I would add a second battery (or high output alt) before I would ever add a capacitor.
While true those upgrades should come first, some people can't afford to go that route. Nothing wrong with adding a cap to a system but they can mask problems with batteries and alternators. Caps are basic quick charge and discharge batteries, and the general rule for sizing caps is 1 farad for every 1000w RMS. That isn't a steadfast rule but one that is easy to go by. A lot of people think their 400w pyramid is going to need one but as long as you have a battery that is worth anything and your alternator isn't on it's last leg, then you should be fine.
Old Sep 7, 2010 | 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by SparksAI
While true those upgrades should come first, some people can't afford to go that route. Nothing wrong with adding a cap to a system but they can mask problems with batteries and alternators. Caps are basic quick charge and discharge batteries, and the general rule for sizing caps is 1 farad for every 1000w RMS. That isn't a steadfast rule but one that is easy to go by. A lot of people think their 400w pyramid is going to need one but as long as you have a battery that is worth anything and your alternator isn't on it's last leg, then you should be fine.
If you can afford a cap, you can afford a second battery.
Old Sep 7, 2010 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Swbari00
If you can afford a cap, you can afford a second battery.

true... but how do you wire it into the series of the car?
Old Sep 8, 2010 | 12:33 AM
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You connect them like you would batteries in a toy, Ground from the vehicle connects to the first battery's ground, then you connect the positive terminal from the first battery to the negative terminal of the second battery then the positive cable from the car to the positive terminal of the second battery.

I do not recommend this unless you upgrade your alternator as well. You are now making your stock alternator charge two batteries, run the car, and power your system. Not wise on a stock alternator. It will be pulling double time trying to keep up and most likely die. Extra considerations for a second battery are mounting hardware and additional wiring. A second battery is not a cheap proposition.

Truely the smart thing to do instead of two batteries or even the cap is one good battery that is meant for fast charge and discharge, but if you are short on change then a cap can help. Caps are truely meant to be used in line with all of the above solutions in a truely high powered setup to cover any unexpected power draws. Other than that they are usually shiney.
Old Sep 8, 2010 | 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by SparksAI
You connect them like you would batteries in a toy, Ground from the vehicle connects to the first battery's ground, then you connect the positive terminal from the first battery to the negative terminal of the second battery then the positive cable from the car to the positive terminal of the second battery.

I do not recommend this unless you upgrade your alternator as well. You are now making your stock alternator charge two batteries, run the car, and power your system. Not wise on a stock alternator. It will be pulling double time trying to keep up and most likely die. Extra considerations for a second battery are mounting hardware and additional wiring. A second battery is not a cheap proposition.

Truely the smart thing to do instead of two batteries or even the cap is one good battery that is meant for fast charge and discharge, but if you are short on change then a cap can help. Caps are truely meant to be used in line with all of the above solutions in a truely high powered setup to cover any unexpected power draws. Other than that they are usually shiney.

You wouldn't connect batteries in a series, that would give you 24 volts. Connect both batteries in parallel (+ to + and - to -)(you can use the frame as the ground also). I totally agree with you on the caps, they are best when everything else is great. Start with a great battery up front, then go from there. With only 1000 watts, you really shouldn't need much more than a solid battery up front. Look into XS power batteries for some great batteries.



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