3rd Gear and e-Brake Problems??
#1
3rd Gear and e-Brake Problems??
Hello, I have a 2008 Scion XD, Manual Trans, Close to 70k miles. Having 2 issues
1) Every winter the e-Brake freezes on after keeping it on over night, have been told to not use my e-brake in cold conditions. But if I want start the car in the morning to warm it up I can't leave it running, and if i put the e-brake on when i go out in the morning it will still freeze on. ( I then have to wait for the car to be totally warmed up before being able to drive, or whenever the brakes decide they want to release)
2) If it is cold out only, Below 35degree, I cannot shift into 3rd gear without it grinding, I don not have problems with any other gear. (I am pushing the clutch all the way to the floor & shift slowly, thinking i was shifting into 3rd to fast, But still grinds. Once the car is warmed up, no issues with 3rd gear)
Obviously the car is no longer under warranty, so i am not thrilled to be taking it to Toyota to have it fixed, I have been told not to use my E-Brake and for the moment to avoid 3rd gear, I will be dropping the car off Sunday night, but if anyone else is having these issues and has a solution to not destroying my Christmas would be wonderful?!?!
1) Every winter the e-Brake freezes on after keeping it on over night, have been told to not use my e-brake in cold conditions. But if I want start the car in the morning to warm it up I can't leave it running, and if i put the e-brake on when i go out in the morning it will still freeze on. ( I then have to wait for the car to be totally warmed up before being able to drive, or whenever the brakes decide they want to release)
2) If it is cold out only, Below 35degree, I cannot shift into 3rd gear without it grinding, I don not have problems with any other gear. (I am pushing the clutch all the way to the floor & shift slowly, thinking i was shifting into 3rd to fast, But still grinds. Once the car is warmed up, no issues with 3rd gear)
Obviously the car is no longer under warranty, so i am not thrilled to be taking it to Toyota to have it fixed, I have been told not to use my E-Brake and for the moment to avoid 3rd gear, I will be dropping the car off Sunday night, but if anyone else is having these issues and has a solution to not destroying my Christmas would be wonderful?!?!
#2
As for 3rd gear, have you replaced the tranny fluid yet? I replaced mine early on with a synthetic from RedLine. A good fluid should allow the synchros to match up faster and better. With about 50,000 miles on the clock, I'm planning on replacing the fluid again, especially since I tow a lot. At two years, it's time to flush the brake fluid, too.... Just ordered some ATE Superblue Racing.
#3
Been having the same trouble with my ebrake. Just put on a glove, reach behind the rear wheel, and give the cable a couple tugs and it should free up. Toyota should definitely issue a recall on this one.
#4
I actually just started having the same problem with 3rd gear, and its not even that cold down here in louisiana. but im getting it sub 45 degrees. sounds like a tranny oil change is in my near future.
#5
I remember when the guy was trying to sell me my car, he told me you never had to change the trans fluid. Lets just say I didn't take much of his selling points to heart when he spoke after that. It was the car that won the day, lol.
No grinding for me in cold weather, and here in VA it's getting downright cold. Granted, shifting is a tad rougher when you first get going, but it smooths out.
No grinding for me in cold weather, and here in VA it's getting downright cold. Granted, shifting is a tad rougher when you first get going, but it smooths out.
#6
I have the 3rd gear issue as well. Even in the summer. Goes away after then ECT gets above 130 degrees. I have changed the fluid twice and the issue wont stop. I used Lucas oil and now I am using Amsoil. I am wondering if there is an additive of some sort availible. I found a trick to shifting into third when the engine is cold. From second push the clutch in and let the rpms drop to almost idle then shift into third. Seems to work for me.
#7
Thank you all for your replies! I thought i would update you on what is going on with my car, I dropped it off at the dealer over the weekend for them to take a look!
The news is not good... I need a new Transmission! My car has about 74,000 miles on it. so it is not under warranty any longer, the only saving grace is that i have the best service writer in the world! And is working with me. Also I was told to think about replacing the clutch at the same time since they have to remove the trans to replace the clutch, so I only have to worry about parts for the clutch since they will pull it to do the trans.
I suggest that if you are having any problems with your gears and you have lower mileage, take it in right away!!!!!
The news is not good... I need a new Transmission! My car has about 74,000 miles on it. so it is not under warranty any longer, the only saving grace is that i have the best service writer in the world! And is working with me. Also I was told to think about replacing the clutch at the same time since they have to remove the trans to replace the clutch, so I only have to worry about parts for the clutch since they will pull it to do the trans.
I suggest that if you are having any problems with your gears and you have lower mileage, take it in right away!!!!!
#8
Thank you all for your replies! I thought i would update you on what is going on with my car, I dropped it off at the dealer over the weekend for them to take a look!
The news is not good... I need a new Transmission! My car has about 74,000 miles on it. so it is not under warranty any longer, the only saving grace is that i have the best service writer in the world! And is working with me. Also I was told to think about replacing the clutch at the same time since they have to remove the trans to replace the clutch, so I only have to worry about parts for the clutch since they will pull it to do the trans.
I suggest that if you are having any problems with your gears and you have lower mileage, take it in right away!!!!!
The news is not good... I need a new Transmission! My car has about 74,000 miles on it. so it is not under warranty any longer, the only saving grace is that i have the best service writer in the world! And is working with me. Also I was told to think about replacing the clutch at the same time since they have to remove the trans to replace the clutch, so I only have to worry about parts for the clutch since they will pull it to do the trans.
I suggest that if you are having any problems with your gears and you have lower mileage, take it in right away!!!!!
#10
The only gear that had a problem was 3rd gear, the plate/bearing was worn? (sorry i didn't take notes and i am not that technical with cars) They also couldn't say why it had the problem, the way I drive, or it could have been a faulty part, So they are going to rebuild the entire trans for me, as there is not a new one readily available?
(PS i think i am a great driver! So i am going with a faulty part)
(PS i think i am a great driver! So i am going with a faulty part)
#12
Im in the same boat you are around 70K miles. Il worry about it when I cant shift into 3rd anymore. Or until I know that they are not putting the same failing part in the trans. If you can find out who is suppling these internal trans parts for your rebuild.
#15
mine works fine, but i don't engage for 8 hours at a time. Or, don't rip the brake up as high as it goes....just a thought. My xD spends all it's time in Chicago's winters outside. no master cylinder issues either.
#17
well, my car is outside in Chicago as well. You do not have to leave it on for 8 hours nor pull it all the way up. When I don't set the brake and leave it for a few hours in cold weather, you can feel that it is frozen immediately. if you pull it up until you feel resistance, maybe an inch, if you go another inch then let I back off...the cable is stuck. I have had the cable released then stopped at a store and 20 minutes later get in and its froze again.
It is freezing someplace along the cable. The odd thing is it only takes 5 minutes or so of driving to break it free. At first I thought it was sticking at the brake drum, then once the wheel bearing got warm it set the e brake free. That is not the case. If you leave the car with the heater on for a while, it will let loose as well. I did pull the drum off and look there too, nota.
I took the console off and looked at the cables from the inside, not much to see. It may be freezing someplace close the exhaust pipe. Once the pipe gets hot it frees up the cable..who knows. Next time i have it up in the air i will pull off the metal cover on the underside and see if anything presents itself.
It is freezing someplace along the cable. The odd thing is it only takes 5 minutes or so of driving to break it free. At first I thought it was sticking at the brake drum, then once the wheel bearing got warm it set the e brake free. That is not the case. If you leave the car with the heater on for a while, it will let loose as well. I did pull the drum off and look there too, nota.
I took the console off and looked at the cables from the inside, not much to see. It may be freezing someplace close the exhaust pipe. Once the pipe gets hot it frees up the cable..who knows. Next time i have it up in the air i will pull off the metal cover on the underside and see if anything presents itself.
#18
Moisture is getting into the cable and freezing. If it is frozen reach behind the rear wheel and give the cable a couple of tugs and it will free up. I haven't pulled the cable and waterproofed it yet so I just don't use it below freezing or I use the above method to free it up if I forget.
#19
same. not always full up, outside in PITTSBURGH WEATHER (which can be 17 in the morning to 52 in the afternoon), or in a place in pittsburgh where summer lows can be 47 and highs are 80+. No problems here, @ 32500 miles and 1 year old car...