Oil change woes.
 

Sorry, I know this has been talked about before..

Tried to change the oil myself for the first time in my 08 xD last night, and.... couldn't get the filter housing off...

After looking over the other threads about this I bought a 65mm adapter from O'reilys and that slipped off under light pressure. Also tried a fram hook wrench, but there was not enough room to get it on properly, tried a belt wrench, and, no dice.

So, could someone specify the wrench they are using, found a link on an old thread about a adapter from sears, but the link is no longer avail.

Hopefully their is something other than the $80 one from toyota.

Also, since I needed to get to work today, I left the old filter where it was and filled it up with Mobil 1 5w20 syn. The previous oil change was also sythetic from ProLube (5k ago).

-Can I make it another 5k without changing my filter?

-You guys that are stechting your oil changes on synthetic, are you still changing filters every 5k? (Did that on my Diesel VW)

-Is there even a way to change the filter without draining the oil?


Thanks for the info guys!, i figured this would be pain the first time

I change the oil every 15-20,000 miles now after having analysis done on several samples. I change the filter around 10,000 miles every time. the samples that I've sent in with 10,000 miles on the filter have shown no negative effects of running a filter for 10,000 miles.


If you look at my last report below, the oldest sample is on the right the most recent on the left.
The first (from right to left) one was 10,000 miles on the oil with a filter change at 5,000.
the next one is 9,800 on the oil and filter both.
The next one is approx. 12,000 on the oil and 2,000 on a new filter.
the next one is Approx. 15,000 on the oil, and 5,000 0n the filter.
And the last one is 17,000 on the oil, and 7,000 on the filter.
take a look at the results, but the filter still seems effective up to 10,000 miles.
For an explanation of the reports go to the link below and click on Gasoline/Diesel.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php


http://gallery.me.com/jakennikki/100...12711261250001

If you're doing oil changes yourself, you need to get an Assenmacher TOY640 filter wrench. Only about $15, but well worth it. It can be found on Amazon, and many other sites.

take a hammer and screwdriver and hit the screwdriver right through the filter and turn counter clock wise and your done

thats atleast what i do when i cant get it off and it works every time

^ I totally agree with this method I've had to do it on a few cars where they put the filter back on with air tools.

make sure, when you get the old filter off, that it didn't leave behind any of it's seal behind. whenever i've had a stuck filter, I've had to scrape off some seal material.

Also, i like the k&n filters for just this reason - they have a nut welded to the filter bottom that you can get a wrench of socket onto.

Okay, tC guys... the xD has a filter that goes inside of a housing... not a metal can spin-on filter. This method will not work.

Get the Assenmacher TOY640 wrench. Works like a charm. I'll be changing my filter tomorrow with it.

How long the filter will go will have a lot to do with the filter itself. As libima has shown, 10,000 miles is okay. There aren't many alternatives, but there is a WIX filter. It is almost certainly better quality than the Toyota filters. I bought a box of 10 Toyota filters and will use them up, after that I'll look into alternatives.

As far as oil, I stick with TRUE synthetic oils like RedLine and Amsoil. Unfortunately, here in the US they are allowed to use the term "synthetic" when referring to class III synthetics, which are called "semi-synthetic" in Europe. Class IV polyol-ester oils are a little higher quality and that's what I would recommend for long OCIs.

Having said that, libima's oil sample looks pretty good, even though it is a class III synthetic and is not the right weight. :crazy: :P

I don't really have much to contribute here other than I hate, HATE, HATE the xD's cartridge filter. We didn't have the correct tool to replace it and ended up using a hammer to beat that stupid cap off.

for the person who said to use a hammer and screwdriver...

and for the WTF comment about a shop using airtools to put ON a filter??
(seriously... how stupid can a person be to tighten an air filter with air tools?? you ALWAYS hand tighten.. ALWAYS. and this is for the shop.. not the person that mentioned the shop.)

you all get this:
http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cfo...leFacePalm.jpg

also.. to the OP.. oil filters don't last as long as the oil itself. i have seen oil that you can use for a very long time however you must drain and change the filters after X so many miles. case in point. you need to change your filter.

and no, you can't change the filter without draining your oil first. you could, however make sure you make a video of you doing that and post it up. we'll have a laugh.

^technically you can change your filter without draining your oil.. you will still drain some oil that is in the filter.. I am speaking on the tc, not quite sure about the xd. you will still retain most of your oil that is in the oil pan. You will just need to top off the oil after this is done.. prolly about 1/4 qt.

i consider what oil that comes out from the filter and from removing the filter as draining, so that's just a difference in personal definition. regardless, you're going to have to add more oil.. because you "drained" some of it by removing the filter.

and it'll still be a messy removal regardless.

yea please do NOT ram a screw driver threw the xD's oil filter cap!

Almost any tool truck will have the correct cap as well, matco, snap-on, mac, national, if your ever driving around and see one outside a service shop, just ask, about $15-20 bucks.

I got my oil filter wrench from amazon per suggestion of an earlier post on this site. As others have pointed out the assenmacher ast I believe the part number is
toy640 / 09228-06501 64mm

I change filters all the time before doing the oil.

You also refill the filter when you put it back up, unless you have a down-angle filter (many cars do). we're talking a third of a quart or less.

Speaking of down angle filters - as long as you let the car sit for a few hours, you can unscrew the filter, and put a new one on with zero mess, drain, or etc... ie: nothing gets "drained" (not even by your definition)

arguing semantics over the use of the word "draining" is a little silly. What you consider is moot. The industry considers a "drain and refill" of any of the serviceable fluids to be a full fluid change. Your original statement implied that you can't change the filter without draining the entire pan (I say this because you were using your statement as a counter to those who were saying to do exactly that - you can't redefine terms while simultaneously posing a counter argument)

Thanks for the link for the correct tool!

Has anyone changed the filter without draining the oil on a xD? I think I will try that when the tool comes.

^^ i would have to agree there. after i had already typed it out and posted it, i had to look back at it and scratch my head (a lot) as to what i was thinking at the time.

i'm going to continue to scratch my head as i find something to eat for lunch soon.

I've done it at least 3 times. You'll lose up to half a quart doing it, but it's not that bad.

I agree get this tool it works great.

I use the WIX filter, I have no idea if its actually better, but WIX has a good reputation. It costs me less to buy it locally, that is why I use it.

We've discussed the viscosity (weight) issue in a different thread, I'm not damaging my engine at all.

Mobil 1, according to their website is actually PAO based which makes it group IV (still full synthetic even outside the U.S.). Maybe not as good as your Ester based Redline (group V), but still offers great protection (I can run it for 20,000 miles) and costs about $4 less per quart.

back on topic though,
Get the Assenmacher TOY640 wrench, nothing else really works.

No you won't do damage running the filter even up to 10,000 miles. For 2010 Toyota changed the factory OCI to 10,000 miles and the only change they made was to synthetic oil, the filter is still the same.

Yes, you can change the filter without draining all the oil. you will lose some though.