Oil change woes.
#1
Oil change woes.
Sorry, I know this has been talked about before..
Tried to change the oil myself for the first time in my 08 xD last night, and.... couldn't get the filter housing off...
After looking over the other threads about this I bought a 65mm adapter from O'reilys and that slipped off under light pressure. Also tried a fram hook wrench, but there was not enough room to get it on properly, tried a belt wrench, and, no dice.
So, could someone specify the wrench they are using, found a link on an old thread about a adapter from sears, but the link is no longer avail.
Hopefully their is something other than the $80 one from toyota.
Also, since I needed to get to work today, I left the old filter where it was and filled it up with Mobil 1 5w20 syn. The previous oil change was also sythetic from ProLube (5k ago).
-Can I make it another 5k without changing my filter?
-You guys that are stechting your oil changes on synthetic, are you still changing filters every 5k? (Did that on my Diesel VW)
-Is there even a way to change the filter without draining the oil?
Thanks for the info guys!, i figured this would be pain the first time
Tried to change the oil myself for the first time in my 08 xD last night, and.... couldn't get the filter housing off...
After looking over the other threads about this I bought a 65mm adapter from O'reilys and that slipped off under light pressure. Also tried a fram hook wrench, but there was not enough room to get it on properly, tried a belt wrench, and, no dice.
So, could someone specify the wrench they are using, found a link on an old thread about a adapter from sears, but the link is no longer avail.
Hopefully their is something other than the $80 one from toyota.
Also, since I needed to get to work today, I left the old filter where it was and filled it up with Mobil 1 5w20 syn. The previous oil change was also sythetic from ProLube (5k ago).
-Can I make it another 5k without changing my filter?
-You guys that are stechting your oil changes on synthetic, are you still changing filters every 5k? (Did that on my Diesel VW)
-Is there even a way to change the filter without draining the oil?
Thanks for the info guys!, i figured this would be pain the first time
#2
I change the oil every 15-20,000 miles now after having analysis done on several samples. I change the filter around 10,000 miles every time. the samples that I've sent in with 10,000 miles on the filter have shown no negative effects of running a filter for 10,000 miles.
If you look at my last report below, the oldest sample is on the right the most recent on the left.
The first (from right to left) one was 10,000 miles on the oil with a filter change at 5,000.
the next one is 9,800 on the oil and filter both.
The next one is approx. 12,000 on the oil and 2,000 on a new filter.
the next one is Approx. 15,000 on the oil, and 5,000 0n the filter.
And the last one is 17,000 on the oil, and 7,000 on the filter.
take a look at the results, but the filter still seems effective up to 10,000 miles.
For an explanation of the reports go to the link below and click on Gasoline/Diesel.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php
If you look at my last report below, the oldest sample is on the right the most recent on the left.
The first (from right to left) one was 10,000 miles on the oil with a filter change at 5,000.
the next one is 9,800 on the oil and filter both.
The next one is approx. 12,000 on the oil and 2,000 on a new filter.
the next one is Approx. 15,000 on the oil, and 5,000 0n the filter.
And the last one is 17,000 on the oil, and 7,000 on the filter.
take a look at the results, but the filter still seems effective up to 10,000 miles.
For an explanation of the reports go to the link below and click on Gasoline/Diesel.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php
#6
make sure, when you get the old filter off, that it didn't leave behind any of it's seal behind. whenever i've had a stuck filter, I've had to scrape off some seal material.
Also, i like the k&n filters for just this reason - they have a nut welded to the filter bottom that you can get a wrench of socket onto.
Also, i like the k&n filters for just this reason - they have a nut welded to the filter bottom that you can get a wrench of socket onto.
#7
Get the Assenmacher TOY640 wrench. Works like a charm. I'll be changing my filter tomorrow with it.
How long the filter will go will have a lot to do with the filter itself. As libima has shown, 10,000 miles is okay. There aren't many alternatives, but there is a WIX filter. It is almost certainly better quality than the Toyota filters. I bought a box of 10 Toyota filters and will use them up, after that I'll look into alternatives.
As far as oil, I stick with TRUE synthetic oils like RedLine and Amsoil. Unfortunately, here in the US they are allowed to use the term "synthetic" when referring to class III synthetics, which are called "semi-synthetic" in Europe. Class IV polyol-ester oils are a little higher quality and that's what I would recommend for long OCIs.
Having said that, libima's oil sample looks pretty good, even though it is a class III synthetic and is not the right weight.
#8
I don't really have much to contribute here other than I hate, HATE, HATE the xD's cartridge filter. We didn't have the correct tool to replace it and ended up using a hammer to beat that stupid cap off.
#9
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for the person who said to use a hammer and screwdriver...
and for the WTF comment about a shop using airtools to put ON a filter??
(seriously... how stupid can a person be to tighten an air filter with air tools?? you ALWAYS hand tighten.. ALWAYS. and this is for the shop.. not the person that mentioned the shop.)
you all get this:
also.. to the OP.. oil filters don't last as long as the oil itself. i have seen oil that you can use for a very long time however you must drain and change the filters after X so many miles. case in point. you need to change your filter.
and no, you can't change the filter without draining your oil first. you could, however make sure you make a video of you doing that and post it up. we'll have a laugh.
and for the WTF comment about a shop using airtools to put ON a filter??
(seriously... how stupid can a person be to tighten an air filter with air tools?? you ALWAYS hand tighten.. ALWAYS. and this is for the shop.. not the person that mentioned the shop.)
you all get this:
also.. to the OP.. oil filters don't last as long as the oil itself. i have seen oil that you can use for a very long time however you must drain and change the filters after X so many miles. case in point. you need to change your filter.
and no, you can't change the filter without draining your oil first. you could, however make sure you make a video of you doing that and post it up. we'll have a laugh.
#10
^technically you can change your filter without draining your oil.. you will still drain some oil that is in the filter.. I am speaking on the tc, not quite sure about the xd. you will still retain most of your oil that is in the oil pan. You will just need to top off the oil after this is done.. prolly about 1/4 qt.
#11
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i consider what oil that comes out from the filter and from removing the filter as draining, so that's just a difference in personal definition. regardless, you're going to have to add more oil.. because you "drained" some of it by removing the filter.
and it'll still be a messy removal regardless.
and it'll still be a messy removal regardless.
#13
Almost any tool truck will have the correct cap as well, matco, snap-on, mac, national, if your ever driving around and see one outside a service shop, just ask, about $15-20 bucks.
#15
i consider what oil that comes out from the filter and from removing the filter as draining, so that's just a difference in personal definition. regardless, you're going to have to add more oil.. because you "drained" some of it by removing the filter.
and it'll still be a messy removal regardless.
and it'll still be a messy removal regardless.
You also refill the filter when you put it back up, unless you have a down-angle filter (many cars do). we're talking a third of a quart or less.
Speaking of down angle filters - as long as you let the car sit for a few hours, you can unscrew the filter, and put a new one on with zero mess, drain, or etc... ie: nothing gets "drained" (not even by your definition)
arguing semantics over the use of the word "draining" is a little silly. What you consider is moot. The industry considers a "drain and refill" of any of the serviceable fluids to be a full fluid change. Your original statement implied that you can't change the filter without draining the entire pan (I say this because you were using your statement as a counter to those who were saying to do exactly that - you can't redefine terms while simultaneously posing a counter argument)
#17
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^^ i would have to agree there. after i had already typed it out and posted it, i had to look back at it and scratch my head (a lot) as to what i was thinking at the time.
i'm going to continue to scratch my head as i find something to eat for lunch soon.
i'm going to continue to scratch my head as i find something to eat for lunch soon.
#18
#19
How long the filter will go will have a lot to do with the filter itself. As libima has shown, 10,000 miles is okay. There aren't many alternatives, but there is a WIX filter. It is almost certainly better quality than the Toyota filters. I bought a box of 10 Toyota filters and will use them up, after that I'll look into alternatives.
As far as oil, I stick with TRUE synthetic oils like RedLine and Amsoil. Unfortunately, here in the US they are allowed to use the term "synthetic" when referring to class III synthetics, which are called "semi-synthetic" in Europe. Class IV polyol-ester oils are a little higher quality and that's what I would recommend for long OCIs.
Having said that, libima's oil sample looks pretty good, even though it is a class III synthetic and is not the right weight.
Having said that, libima's oil sample looks pretty good, even though it is a class III synthetic and is not the right weight.
Mobil 1, according to their website is actually PAO based which makes it group IV (still full synthetic even outside the U.S.). Maybe not as good as your Ester based Redline (group V), but still offers great protection (I can run it for 20,000 miles) and costs about $4 less per quart.
back on topic though,
Get the Assenmacher TOY640 wrench, nothing else really works.
No you won't do damage running the filter even up to 10,000 miles. For 2010 Toyota changed the factory OCI to 10,000 miles and the only change they made was to synthetic oil, the filter is still the same.
Yes, you can change the filter without draining all the oil. you will lose some though.
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