xD daily driver mods - Deleted
#41
WIth the snow issue, I'd stay away from a body kit. Most have the "snow plow" front lip/bumper. It'd be sort of funny as a joke to go plow some light snow... but it'd stop being funny once it falls off.
The TRD springs will be fine though the Tanabe NF210 is also a good choice. It's slightly lower w/o having to slow to 1mph to go over bumps. You may occassionally scrape the "air spats" (plastic piece in front of the wheel that diverts air) though.
The TRD springs will be fine though the Tanabe NF210 is also a good choice. It's slightly lower w/o having to slow to 1mph to go over bumps. You may occassionally scrape the "air spats" (plastic piece in front of the wheel that diverts air) though.
#42
#43
Originally Posted by w_kary
First pull the trim ring off of the guage cluster on the dash, just held in with clips and pulls out by hand it helps if you drop the steering wheel all the way down.
There are 2 phillips screws on the bottom front edge of the cluster, and two wire harnesses on the front. Unplug the harnesses and remove the 2 screws. The whole assmebly pulls right out, it is only being help by two clips on the top.
Place the gauge cluster face down and there are 4 phillips screws on the back. remove these and undo the clips to remove the back housing.
Flip the gauge cluster over so it is face up. Remove the center speedo cover by releasing the 4 clips. The ring and the plastic shield all come off together, the plastic shield is a seperate peice.
Using gentle but firm pressure pull the speedo and tach needles off. Some folks use a fork to gently pry others use 2 spoons, others simply do it by hand. There is no need to mark the needle position on the xD as the marks are on the guage face for both needles already.
Now the overlays all lift off pretty easily. There are little tabs that retain them.
You can also gently pry the circuit board out from the back by using a flat tip to pry up at each lower corner where the LCD panels for the fuel and trip computer are located. Take it easy, it comes off with moderate force. I would recommend removing the LCD panels all together before reassembly as it makes lining up all those tiny pins easier.
This gives you full access to all the LEDs on the gauge cluster.
The replacement faces are a tad on the flimsy side compared to the stock ones. I have seen many examples of folks simply taping them in place during reassembly. I opted to take the stock speedo overlay, and using an exacto cut out the circle in the speedo overlay so it lines up with the outer edge of the speedo cover assemply, then I attached the new overlay to this skeleton. Made the new overlay nice and stiff an made reinstallation a breeze.
Hope this helps!
There are 2 phillips screws on the bottom front edge of the cluster, and two wire harnesses on the front. Unplug the harnesses and remove the 2 screws. The whole assmebly pulls right out, it is only being help by two clips on the top.
Place the gauge cluster face down and there are 4 phillips screws on the back. remove these and undo the clips to remove the back housing.
Flip the gauge cluster over so it is face up. Remove the center speedo cover by releasing the 4 clips. The ring and the plastic shield all come off together, the plastic shield is a seperate peice.
Using gentle but firm pressure pull the speedo and tach needles off. Some folks use a fork to gently pry others use 2 spoons, others simply do it by hand. There is no need to mark the needle position on the xD as the marks are on the guage face for both needles already.
Now the overlays all lift off pretty easily. There are little tabs that retain them.
You can also gently pry the circuit board out from the back by using a flat tip to pry up at each lower corner where the LCD panels for the fuel and trip computer are located. Take it easy, it comes off with moderate force. I would recommend removing the LCD panels all together before reassembly as it makes lining up all those tiny pins easier.
This gives you full access to all the LEDs on the gauge cluster.
The replacement faces are a tad on the flimsy side compared to the stock ones. I have seen many examples of folks simply taping them in place during reassembly. I opted to take the stock speedo overlay, and using an exacto cut out the circle in the speedo overlay so it lines up with the outer edge of the speedo cover assemply, then I attached the new overlay to this skeleton. Made the new overlay nice and stiff an made reinstallation a breeze.
Hope this helps!
#44
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#46
Nice shots! I like the snowboarders in the background, lol. Very clean and spiffy xD you've got.
Thinking of painting my caps while I find the rims I want...not sure how good they would look white though :S
Thinking of painting my caps while I find the rims I want...not sure how good they would look white though :S
#47
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#52
#53
You will see them.. if you have non stock wheels
Either way that's awesome you got them powder coated.
Either way that's awesome you got them powder coated.
#54
Originally Posted by ChelsDS
You will see them.. if you have non stock wheels
Either way that's awesome you got them powder coated.
Either way that's awesome you got them powder coated.
#55
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