Looking for better handling for a DD
05-01-2011, 03:34 PM
#1
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Looking for better handling for a DD
I’m looking at springs for my xD. My goals are to lower it slightly to improve the handling by reducing body roll. I do commute about 35mi each way and I don’t want to make the ride too harsh. From reading the threads here I want to avoid TRD springs. On my short list is the Tanabe NF210 or is there something else I should be looking at?
05-02-2011, 01:28 PM
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trd/nf210s for a mild drop. trds are a little stiff but i really liked them when i had them. nf210s should feel really similar stiffness wise, but i have no personal experience with them.
df210/tien stechs for a moderate drop. the df210s have a really attractive drop to them, and have a really nice, softer ride. They'll improve your handling by lowering your center of gravity, but wont to a whole lot in terms of body roll.
It really comes down to what you want. trds/nfs will likely handle slightly better (dont know the spring rates/stiffness on the stechs), but the ride wont be as good. springs like the df210s will help your handling some, but also come with a nice cosmetic perk.
When it comes down to it, springs can only do so much, but if you're just looking for a little better handling on the road, you dont need to consider coilovers
df210/tien stechs for a moderate drop. the df210s have a really attractive drop to them, and have a really nice, softer ride. They'll improve your handling by lowering your center of gravity, but wont to a whole lot in terms of body roll.
It really comes down to what you want. trds/nfs will likely handle slightly better (dont know the spring rates/stiffness on the stechs), but the ride wont be as good. springs like the df210s will help your handling some, but also come with a nice cosmetic perk.
When it comes down to it, springs can only do so much, but if you're just looking for a little better handling on the road, you dont need to consider coilovers
05-02-2011, 02:14 PM
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im on s. techs and i can tell you now, its bouncy, lol. they are rated at 168 lbs/in front and 198 lbs/in rear. itll stick to corners nice, but the body roll is quite apparent. if i invest it strut bars will that really help it?
05-02-2011, 03:33 PM
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Well I’m not trying to transform the car into something that is not and that’s a sports car. I would like to take the off ramps a little quicker 
. I want to accomplish this without making the car’s ride too harsh. The NF210’s look like a conservative choice. The only other options I can think of is the Nitto lower rear bar or the OEM springs off an 2011 xD. From what I have read the 2011 xD are lower and I guessing this is done with the springs. I looked at an RS3 and the springs are black like stock springs and not red like TRD ones.
. I want to accomplish this without making the car’s ride too harsh. The NF210’s look like a conservative choice. The only other options I can think of is the Nitto lower rear bar or the OEM springs off an 2011 xD. From what I have read the 2011 xD are lower and I guessing this is done with the springs. I looked at an RS3 and the springs are black like stock springs and not red like TRD ones.
05-02-2011, 03:53 PM
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strut bars wont do much if anything for our cars, rear sway bar on the other hand is a decent upgrade.
id say both tanabe springs for our cars are proven and widely used among xD'ers. just be warned, lowering your car is something like an addiction. you may regret picking up NF210s after you see it 1.5" lower and start thinking, "what if it was another 3/4" lower" where as DF210s and S techs will get you about as low as you can go without coilovers, and still be high enough to get over most speed bumps/ramps with ease
id say both tanabe springs for our cars are proven and widely used among xD'ers. just be warned, lowering your car is something like an addiction. you may regret picking up NF210s after you see it 1.5" lower and start thinking, "what if it was another 3/4" lower" where as DF210s and S techs will get you about as low as you can go without coilovers, and still be high enough to get over most speed bumps/ramps with ease
05-02-2011, 04:51 PM
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strut bars or strut tower bars go on top of the strut, and link the 2 together, and are for the most part chassis stiffening / reducing chassis flex.
Sway bars go on the bottom of the strut and work with the springs' rate to reduce body roll and limit camber change in hard cornering, and once you get more technical racing type stand points, help to correct under and oversteer.
05-02-2011, 05:17 PM
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This is what it's actually called. So we were both wrong. http://shop.microimageonline.com/NIT...ace-RSB-01.htm
This works with or without the rear swaybar. Neither do anything to your springs, they help by stiffening your torsion beam. So to reduce underrsteer, you want to think of it as increasing oversteer, and to do that you want a stiffer rear. I could be wrong, but that's how I understand it.
This works with or without the rear swaybar. Neither do anything to your springs, they help by stiffening your torsion beam. So to reduce underrsteer, you want to think of it as increasing oversteer, and to do that you want a stiffer rear. I could be wrong, but that's how I understand it.
05-02-2011, 05:37 PM
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This is what it's actually called. So we were both wrong. http://shop.microimageonline.com/NIT...ace-RSB-01.htm
This works with or without the rear swaybar. Neither do anything to your springs, they help by stiffening your torsion beam. So to reduce underrsteer, you want to think of it as increasing oversteer, and to do that you want a stiffer rear. I could be wrong, but that's how I understand it.
This works with or without the rear swaybar. Neither do anything to your springs, they help by stiffening your torsion beam. So to reduce underrsteer, you want to think of it as increasing oversteer, and to do that you want a stiffer rear. I could be wrong, but that's how I understand it.
the sway bar does in fact, increase effective spring rates during turn in by "jacking" suspension load from the outer wheel in a hard corner and transferring it to the inner wheel, which is why the inner suspension also squats during hard cornering, and is also responsible for the reduction in body roll.
as for understeer/oversteer, the way it works, is stronger sway bars in the front increase rear traction , stronger sway bars in the back increase front traction. so for understeer you change the size ratio on your sway bars so that you have a smaler one in the front and a bigger one in the back, so that you can increase your front traction and turning capability. for oversteer you do the opposite, small in back, bigger up front, this creates better traction in the rear, hence less oversteer.
tricking the car into more/less over/understeer is the reason people with full track suspension setups with high spring rates use sway bars, because their cars have such a low center of gravity and barely any roll/sway mechanic as it is
05-02-2011, 06:02 PM
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yarisworld.com has all the info you need on chasis bars.....
05-02-2011, 06:31 PM
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i actually was a TEST MULE for GT SPEC and passed on that piece seeing as i had a TRD rear sway bar and rear lower brace already. the piece your refering to definately IS NOT for cosmetics and will contribute to stiffen up your chasis....
underside of my car can be seen here:
underside of my car can be seen here:
05-02-2011, 06:44 PM
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Do you have a link for the install? I am curious about those bars, but not enough to pull the trigger on them yet. Did you have to fab anything? One thing I would pull the trigger on immediately is something to clear up the slop in the engine/trans movement. Would the TRD dog bone for the yaris fit our car, and also would like to get an engine dampener.
05-02-2011, 06:57 PM
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no link for install as gt spec just decided to post up pictures. although if you search www.yarisworld.com you should find more than 1 write up. also no fabrication is need and the parts are straight bolt on. ZEFOXE who is another xd owner should know the answer to your dog bone question.....
05-02-2011, 06:58 PM
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But i will tell you this, the amount of force it takes to make those cross bar chassis braces and things like the brace that nate linked work effectively in a car like ours that is already small and rigid, is pretty high. If nate sees a different then thats awesome. but honestly i just dont see it myself, especially when you compare it to the price vs difference noticed of the sway bar and lowering springs.
I just dont see where reinforcing the torsion bar on our suspension is useful under normal driving conditions on the highway (sure maybe autocrossing or the like), where as swaybars in the capacity discussed are actually perfect for normal driving conditions on the highway,because it increases your springs rate at turn in without compromising ride quality. same with lowering springs, by bringing your center of gravity down without compromising your ride quality.
Sorry to the OP that this turned into a ____ fest, but i hope i was able to help with any explanations or discussions presented. feel free to PM me if you have any further questions.
my suggestions.
Rear Swaybar of the Ultra Racing or TRD Variants
Lowering springs of your choice Tanabe/TRD/Tien
05-02-2011, 07:23 PM
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Nothing but changing your springs will change spring rate. You need to reflect on what you are saying.
http://www.tuninglinx.com/html/spring-rate.html
As for the bar I have, it works in works with or without the sway bar. It actually bolts up on the opposite side of the shock from the sway bar. I have both installed TRD (19mm) and the rear lower shock bar. I wish I had bought the 23mm sway, but can't justify selling and repurchasing a sway bar. Anyway they call it a Torsion beam because it is designed to contort. If you don't know something please ask questions, and don't post your baseless assumptions. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_beam_suspension
I'm not trying to be mean, but your pretty stubborn.
http://www.tuninglinx.com/html/spring-rate.html
As for the bar I have, it works in works with or without the sway bar. It actually bolts up on the opposite side of the shock from the sway bar. I have both installed TRD (19mm) and the rear lower shock bar. I wish I had bought the 23mm sway, but can't justify selling and repurchasing a sway bar. Anyway they call it a Torsion beam because it is designed to contort. If you don't know something please ask questions, and don't post your baseless assumptions. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_beam_suspension
I'm not trying to be mean, but your pretty stubborn.