help with springs
I always prefer to do the hard part first, so start with the front struts. When you pull the springs off the strut, compare them to the tanabe's in the box- you'll have no problem seeing which goes where. As you change the front and back, you'll have no trouble seeing which way they go in. If you can't tell which is up and down, just look at were it says Tanabe on the springs (it's there), and don't let it be upside down.
The biggest thing is to brace your wheel hubs in the front (rotors). Dont let the top angle out when you pull the strut off, 'cause the axle is held in place by the strut, and if it slides out -it'll pull at the axle boots. If this happens, your boots can tear, or pop their clamps and you'll have big puddles of axle grease squirting out under your car.
So, please take care.
I don't mean to sound like a jack, or like I know better (because I don't). I just know that nobody mentions this in their spring install tutorials, but it can happen. If you have to replace those boots, it's a huge pain in the buttocks- or a huge chunk out of the wallet at the dealer. Just be careful, and you'll be fine.
I have the DF210's too, and I love 'em. Actually rides better than stock.
The biggest thing is to brace your wheel hubs in the front (rotors). Dont let the top angle out when you pull the strut off, 'cause the axle is held in place by the strut, and if it slides out -it'll pull at the axle boots. If this happens, your boots can tear, or pop their clamps and you'll have big puddles of axle grease squirting out under your car.
So, please take care.
I don't mean to sound like a jack, or like I know better (because I don't). I just know that nobody mentions this in their spring install tutorials, but it can happen. If you have to replace those boots, it's a huge pain in the buttocks- or a huge chunk out of the wallet at the dealer. Just be careful, and you'll be fine.
I have the DF210's too, and I love 'em. Actually rides better than stock.
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