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Coilover Install (Tein Basic)

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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 07:58 PM
  #61  
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i've heard em taking several hours...

i've done em in 3 hrs
Old Mar 12, 2009 | 08:02 PM
  #62  
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any help with mounting points for the jack stands guys?
Old Mar 12, 2009 | 08:08 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by bmxon20s
any help with mounting points for the jack stands guys?
Did you not read what I said? There are arrows conveniently placed ON the sideskirts that show you were to put them.
Old Mar 12, 2009 | 08:14 PM
  #64  
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hahahahahahaha
Old Mar 12, 2009 | 08:33 PM
  #65  
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read your manual, it tells you where to place the jacks.
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 12:51 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Domo
j3st3r..im guessing you dont know how much these coils settle over a three week period since you got them used right? Does anyone know how much they will drop after fully being settled? I think ima go with 13 all around for now.
Used?? Not sure how you came up with that, but mine were purchased new. As for the settling....not sure that I have really seen much of it even after racing on them.
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 05:21 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by j3st3r
Originally Posted by Domo
j3st3r..im guessing you dont know how much these coils settle over a three week period since you got them used right? Does anyone know how much they will drop after fully being settled? I think ima go with 13 all around for now.
Used?? Not sure how you came up with that, but mine were purchased new. As for the settling....not sure that I have really seen much of it even after racing on them.
oh sorry, maybe i got you and dr. isotope mixed up. Im have some trouble with the EDFC controller. I have no idea on how to get the wires and looms from the engine bay the the interior. Someone told me I would have to cut the passenger floor panel and reseal it but i dont wanna go that route. Also if anyone knows whether there is enough room for the rear motors?
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 05:39 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Domo
Originally Posted by j3st3r
Originally Posted by Domo
j3st3r..im guessing you dont know how much these coils settle over a three week period since you got them used right? Does anyone know how much they will drop after fully being settled? I think ima go with 13 all around for now.
Used?? Not sure how you came up with that, but mine were purchased new. As for the settling....not sure that I have really seen much of it even after racing on them.
oh sorry, maybe i got you and dr. isotope mixed up. Im have some trouble with the EDFC controller. I have no idea on how to get the wires and looms from the engine bay the the interior. Someone told me I would have to cut the passenger floor panel and reseal it but i dont wanna go that route. Also if anyone knows whether there is enough room for the rear motors?
I am running the EDFC on both front and rears. You dont have to cut any floor boards, and yes they do fit on the rear. There are a couple places you can run the wires through at. There are 2 factory wire looms that run through the firewall, one on the passenger side very close to the shock town, and one is on the drivers side.
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:05 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by j3st3r
Originally Posted by Domo
Originally Posted by j3st3r
Originally Posted by Domo
j3st3r..im guessing you dont know how much these coils settle over a three week period since you got them used right? Does anyone know how much they will drop after fully being settled? I think ima go with 13 all around for now.
Used?? Not sure how you came up with that, but mine were purchased new. As for the settling....not sure that I have really seen much of it even after racing on them.
oh sorry, maybe i got you and dr. isotope mixed up. Im have some trouble with the EDFC controller. I have no idea on how to get the wires and looms from the engine bay the the interior. Someone told me I would have to cut the passenger floor panel and reseal it but i dont wanna go that route. Also if anyone knows whether there is enough room for the rear motors?
I am running the EDFC on both front and rears. You dont have to cut any floor boards, and yes they do fit on the rear. There are a couple places you can run the wires through at. There are 2 factory wire looms that run through the firewall, one on the passenger side very close to the shock town, and one is on the drivers side.
The grommet behind the brake, is that the part you are talking about on the drivers side? And which option did you use for the front wiring?
Old May 5, 2009 | 01:42 AM
  #70  
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Would I use the same oem parts for the rear for my H&R coilovers???
Old May 5, 2009 | 02:11 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by dqlostsoulz
Would I use the same oem parts for the rear for my H&R coilovers???
From looking at the pictures of the H&R's I would say yes.
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 10:23 PM
  #72  
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Thanks a ton for posting this, just ordered these today and this should help a ton (except I now I gotta buy the stuff to do it haha). Very nice writeup.
Old Sep 16, 2009 | 04:02 AM
  #73  
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I was the first to post. I used this guide to install my F&F type II coilovers yesterday (fronts) and today (rears). The fronts are super easy, the rears no so much but I got them in. Now the measuring comes tomorrow. Thanks again!
Old Sep 18, 2009 | 02:38 PM
  #74  
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whats hard about the rear w/ F/F coilover? I think the hard part was just getting the stock coilover out
Old Sep 18, 2009 | 09:29 PM
  #75  
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Thats what i was wondering.. Couldnt be the carpet and panels.. I ripped all that crap out in 10 minutes. Maybe the way they adjust or something?
Old Sep 22, 2009 | 03:21 AM
  #76  
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Got these in with a friend no problem, everything is tight like the guide says, measurements are good, but every time i hit a bump going slow it's really clanky/loud and doesn't sound right, any ideas?

Update: When in doubt, recheck... turns out some stuff was in fact loose just didn't catch it. Awesome. Thanks again for the guide!

Last edited by jlong; Sep 25, 2009 at 08:20 PM. Reason: Update
Old Nov 11, 2009 | 03:26 AM
  #77  
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nice diy , i want one for my tc too
Old Mar 30, 2010 | 07:31 PM
  #78  
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I realize this is an old thread but I noted that it stated that a spring compressor was not needed for the removal of the top hat. Is that really correct? I mean, I have a spring compressor but I have never seen a stock spring come off without one. Well, I have but it damn near shot the nut through a wall when the idiot did it.
Old Mar 30, 2010 | 09:47 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Mod-Bug
I realize this is an old thread but I noted that it stated that a spring compressor was not needed for the removal of the top hat. Is that really correct? I mean, I have a spring compressor but I have never seen a stock spring come off without one. Well, I have but it damn near shot the nut through a wall when the idiot did it.
Yes I am positive you do not need a spring compressor for the removal
Old Apr 27, 2010 | 08:27 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Ro_Ja
Did you not read what I said? There are arrows conveniently placed ON the sideskirts that show you were to put them.
Wow.



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