DIY: Make your tC Chirp/Honk (factory) when locks are pressed
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Originally Posted by O5_TRD_tC
it is the same color wires and #'s for the tC as well?
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Problem with LEDs are the they have a much higher forward drop (voltage) so you will lose more of the signal. Probably not enough to affect it, but perhaps. Anyway what I meant was the Cathode towards the plug, and the anode towards the horn wire.
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Originally Posted by Dr_Isotope
Just did the mod (piezo style), took about 15 minutes. Perfect, and brilliant! Just makes a little maybe half-second long "bbbbrrrr" sound. Fantastic!
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FIX!!! Ok so me and 05_trd_tC did this and it took about 10 mins. Then yes indeed when ur inside driving when u press the door lock on the door the honk goes off. Well me and my friend did a fix of how to remove this honk during normal driving. We basically just cut the trace and ran each end into a switch. So when we drive we can just switch it off so dat the passenger dont go foolin around with honking... If anyone wants to see pics let me know, i'll do a write up on this thread. Fhe1079 YOU ROCK!!!
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From: The Godfather
this is how i plan to do it:
taking a relay, power the relay only when the vehicle is off (so there's no power running through the relay) then use the mirror sidemarker blinks to 'trigger' the relay, allowing it to power my piezo. so now, the only way you'll hear the piezo beep is when the car is off (no key in ignition) and the hazards are on (very rare occurance)
taking a relay, power the relay only when the vehicle is off (so there's no power running through the relay) then use the mirror sidemarker blinks to 'trigger' the relay, allowing it to power my piezo. so now, the only way you'll hear the piezo beep is when the car is off (no key in ignition) and the hazards are on (very rare occurance)
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From: Lincoln Park, NJ
Originally Posted by Dakine
FIX!!! Ok so me and 05_trd_tC did this and it took about 10 mins. Then yes indeed when ur inside driving when u press the door lock on the door the honk goes off. Well me and my friend did a fix of how to remove this honk during normal driving. We basically just cut the trace and ran each end into a switch. So when we drive we can just switch it off so dat the passenger dont go foolin around with honking... If anyone wants to see pics let me know, i'll do a write up on this thread. Fhe1079 YOU ROCK!!!
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Originally Posted by djct_watt
I FOUND IT!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok, all you tC guys who yell at us xA and xB guys who troll your forums, thank us NOW!
Courtesy of the12volt.com, I found the proper wires to tap. According to their install bay, find the 20 pin plug in the driver's kick panel.
Pin 14 (disarm/unlock) and Pin 15 (arm/lock) are what you'll want to tap. Keep in mind that these are NEGATIVE (ground) triggers. So that means that when you hit arm/disarm, the corresponding pin will connect to ground.
Before tapping anything, do a test to be sure the info is correct. Try grounding Pin 14 while the alarm is armed and check to see if the alarm goes off or not. If the car unlocks without a sound, you are good to go. Also verify that Pin 15 does the opposite.
Ideally you use a relay, but you can wire them up directly if you like. If you decide to use your horn, you will be jumping pins 14 and 15 together with the white wire in the steering column. USE A DIODE (buy it for a couple cents at radio shack). You will need the proper rating and voltage for it. Why? You don't want someone to honk your horn and disarm your alarm, do you? A diode restricts electricity to only flow in one direction. You'll need a diode on the jumping cable. If you can't deal with Radiocrack, use a 12 volt LED. . . it's the same thing. Install it so that it DOESN'T work when you honk your horn.
Ideally you use a piezo, and you use these pins to ground the circuit (or better yet use a relay).
I'm too lazy to do a complete DIY, futhermore, I have an xA and not a tC, so I can't verify or take pics. It CAN be done. There is enough info here to do it.
Enjoy.
Oh and:
Pin 14: "Purple to Pink" so it says. . .
Pin 15: "Green to blue" . . .
And just in case you guys need it:
DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - SCION / TC / 2005 / Remote Start
[PRINT THIS PAGE]
12volts red (30A), white (25A) + ignition harness
Starter black + ignition harness
Second Starter green + ignition harness
Ignition blue + ignition harness
Second Ignition yellow + ignition harness
Third Ignition N/A
Accessory gray + ignition harness
Second Accessory N/A
Keysense black - ignition harness
Notes: Using the status output to trigger this wire during remote start will disarm the factory alarm without unlocking the doors.
Power Lock green to blue - driver kick, 20 pin plug, pin 15
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Power Unlock purple to pink (double pulse) - driver kick, 20 pin plug, pin 14
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Can also use the passenger door key cylinder wire for unlock, which only requires a single pulse. It is purple to lt. green (-) in the passenger kick, 10 pin plug, pin 7.
Lock Motor blue to brown 5wi driver kick, gray 7 pin plug, pin 6
Unlock Motor pink to blue 5wi driver kick, gray 7 pin plug, pin 5
Parking Lights+ brown + top of fuse box, 30 pin plug, pin 29
Parking Lights- brown - headlight switch
Hazards orange - hazard switch
Turn Signal(L) yellow + top of fuse box, 30 pin plug, pin 27
Turn Signal(R) green + top of fuse box, 30 pin plug, pin 28
Reverse Light pink + top of fuse box, 14 pin plug, pin 2
Door Trigger orange (D), blue (P) - top of fuse box
Notes: The driver door is orange in a 30 pin plug, pin 21. The passenger door is blue in a 16 pin plug, pin 14. Use both wires and diode isolate each.
Dome Supervision blue - L side of fusebox, 6 pin plug, pin 2
Trunk/Hatch Pin purple - top of fuse box, 30 pin plug, pin 7
Hood Pin N/A
Trunk/Hatch Release orange - driver kick, gry 12 pin plug, pin 12
Notes: Meter this wire while using the back door opener switch on the hatch.
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock
Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock
Disarm No Unlock use key sense wire
Tachometer black ac data link conn. under dash, pin 9
Notes: The tach wire is also found at the ECM behind the glove box, top plug, pin 5.
Wait to start N/A
Brake Wire blue + brake pedal switch
Parking Brake black - parking brake switch
Horn Trigger white - steering column
Memory Seat 1 N/A
Memory Seat 2 N/A
Memory Seat 3 N/A
Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: Yes Type: Transponder Part #: 556U or 555U
Notes: N/A
Ok, all you tC guys who yell at us xA and xB guys who troll your forums, thank us NOW!
Courtesy of the12volt.com, I found the proper wires to tap. According to their install bay, find the 20 pin plug in the driver's kick panel.
Pin 14 (disarm/unlock) and Pin 15 (arm/lock) are what you'll want to tap. Keep in mind that these are NEGATIVE (ground) triggers. So that means that when you hit arm/disarm, the corresponding pin will connect to ground.
Before tapping anything, do a test to be sure the info is correct. Try grounding Pin 14 while the alarm is armed and check to see if the alarm goes off or not. If the car unlocks without a sound, you are good to go. Also verify that Pin 15 does the opposite.
Ideally you use a relay, but you can wire them up directly if you like. If you decide to use your horn, you will be jumping pins 14 and 15 together with the white wire in the steering column. USE A DIODE (buy it for a couple cents at radio shack). You will need the proper rating and voltage for it. Why? You don't want someone to honk your horn and disarm your alarm, do you? A diode restricts electricity to only flow in one direction. You'll need a diode on the jumping cable. If you can't deal with Radiocrack, use a 12 volt LED. . . it's the same thing. Install it so that it DOESN'T work when you honk your horn.
Ideally you use a piezo, and you use these pins to ground the circuit (or better yet use a relay).
I'm too lazy to do a complete DIY, futhermore, I have an xA and not a tC, so I can't verify or take pics. It CAN be done. There is enough info here to do it.
Enjoy.
Oh and:
Pin 14: "Purple to Pink" so it says. . .
Pin 15: "Green to blue" . . .
And just in case you guys need it:
DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - SCION / TC / 2005 / Remote Start
[PRINT THIS PAGE]
12volts red (30A), white (25A) + ignition harness
Starter black + ignition harness
Second Starter green + ignition harness
Ignition blue + ignition harness
Second Ignition yellow + ignition harness
Third Ignition N/A
Accessory gray + ignition harness
Second Accessory N/A
Keysense black - ignition harness
Notes: Using the status output to trigger this wire during remote start will disarm the factory alarm without unlocking the doors.
Power Lock green to blue - driver kick, 20 pin plug, pin 15
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Power Unlock purple to pink (double pulse) - driver kick, 20 pin plug, pin 14
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Can also use the passenger door key cylinder wire for unlock, which only requires a single pulse. It is purple to lt. green (-) in the passenger kick, 10 pin plug, pin 7.
Lock Motor blue to brown 5wi driver kick, gray 7 pin plug, pin 6
Unlock Motor pink to blue 5wi driver kick, gray 7 pin plug, pin 5
Parking Lights+ brown + top of fuse box, 30 pin plug, pin 29
Parking Lights- brown - headlight switch
Hazards orange - hazard switch
Turn Signal(L) yellow + top of fuse box, 30 pin plug, pin 27
Turn Signal(R) green + top of fuse box, 30 pin plug, pin 28
Reverse Light pink + top of fuse box, 14 pin plug, pin 2
Door Trigger orange (D), blue (P) - top of fuse box
Notes: The driver door is orange in a 30 pin plug, pin 21. The passenger door is blue in a 16 pin plug, pin 14. Use both wires and diode isolate each.
Dome Supervision blue - L side of fusebox, 6 pin plug, pin 2
Trunk/Hatch Pin purple - top of fuse box, 30 pin plug, pin 7
Hood Pin N/A
Trunk/Hatch Release orange - driver kick, gry 12 pin plug, pin 12
Notes: Meter this wire while using the back door opener switch on the hatch.
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock
Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock
Disarm No Unlock use key sense wire
Tachometer black ac data link conn. under dash, pin 9
Notes: The tach wire is also found at the ECM behind the glove box, top plug, pin 5.
Wait to start N/A
Brake Wire blue + brake pedal switch
Parking Brake black - parking brake switch
Horn Trigger white - steering column
Memory Seat 1 N/A
Memory Seat 2 N/A
Memory Seat 3 N/A
Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: Yes Type: Transponder Part #: 556U or 555U
Notes: N/A
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From: Nowhere
I'm doing this in an 07 without scion security and I cant get it to work.
I can not find a wire in the harness that will turn on when I lock.
Is the wiring the same in the 07, or am I just looking at the wrong wires.
Pin 14&15 as posted earlier didnt change in voltage, the only wires I can find in any of the harness that will move or change with the locks are the left and right blinkers.
If someone can tell me what pin the hazards go on, or what pins the locking will do.
I can not find a wire in the harness that will turn on when I lock.
Is the wiring the same in the 07, or am I just looking at the wrong wires.
Pin 14&15 as posted earlier didnt change in voltage, the only wires I can find in any of the harness that will move or change with the locks are the left and right blinkers.
If someone can tell me what pin the hazards go on, or what pins the locking will do.
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Scinergy
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Nevermind, I figured out a way to do it.
I took the left turning signal wire and ran it with a constant ground on one side of the relay.
When those make contact, the power is supplied by the locking motor on the other side of the relay so the buzzer only goes off when I hit the lock button on the key from outside the car.
Now I just have to get the right buzzer... mine is too high a voltage...
At least I figured out one problem.
I took the left turning signal wire and ran it with a constant ground on one side of the relay.
When those make contact, the power is supplied by the locking motor on the other side of the relay so the buzzer only goes off when I hit the lock button on the key from outside the car.
Now I just have to get the right buzzer... mine is too high a voltage...
At least I figured out one problem.
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From: Ohio
Re: DIY: Make your tC CHURP/HONK(factory) when locks are pre
Originally Posted by Fhe1079
5)To get to the wires behind the easy way, take a screwdriver and wedge it beteen the holder to remove the white plug out of the way.
6)Locate the wires in the back of the plug (blue and brown wires are the ones we need)
6)Locate the wires in the back of the plug (blue and brown wires are the ones we need)
..finally friggin got done! I started about 8:15 p.m. and just got done (10:15 p.m.). Why did it take me so long? See below for my words of wisdom..Some tips..
1.) Do not try to do this in the rain if you do not have a carport or garage.
2.) Mounted the piezo first..then did the wiring through the boot. Word to the wise...it is MUCH easier to go OUT the boot instead of INTO the boot.
3.) Go along with #2...make sure you have smaller arms or can find some to fit in between the hoses and wires in the engine bay to get to the rubber boot to pull the wire through. Or make sure you have a game plan to get in and out.
4.) Make sure you have a game plan. Have your tools ready and in hand. After 10 trips back and forth to the upstairs apartment, I was saying a few four letter words from my stupidity.
4.) Maybe it was just me..maybe not. When I read the steps above and actually got to doing the mod, I messed up. I accidentally pulled the white male harness out of female harness thinking that is what OP meant. I could not for the life of me figure how he got there. I also did the same with the grey harness. Then I went to read about the blue and brown wire. Well...if you look at the male part of the grey harness there is a blue and pink wire. I was like WTF?!? What brown wire...it was then I had to take my laptop out and compare pics to see that I pulled the wrong part of the harnesses apart.
So for those who are maybe quick to do this...or skim over the article...or are just plain a dumby (points to self
)...make sure you pop the white harness HOLDER off from the grey harness set by using a thin, long flat head screwdriver.
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From: Blacksburg, VA
Originally Posted by Jackass
Wonder if you could put a relay on the power feed to the horn/buzzer that only was energized when the flashers hit. That way it only chirps when the lock button is hit as well as the lights flashing? Hmmm...may have to look into rigging that one up. Just not 100% sure that the lights do flash right when the button is hit on the remote.