Gauge Install (Autometer)

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Dec 30, 2005 | 02:18 AM

#21

Kaeon

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From: Palm Bay, Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by mwuf15

the one in the link u gave fits the tc? thanks

Thats the only one I KNOW works... You can try another one don't know if it would work..

Dec 30, 2005 | 02:28 AM

#22

BrEaK_AwaY

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From: Baltimore, MD

I am selling that adaptor for $50.00 SHIPPED. it is the polished one. PM me for more details

Feb 18, 2006 | 08:59 PM

#23

peteyd

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bump so i can have this in my posts!

Mar 11, 2006 | 03:23 AM

#24

ERIC-TC

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Great install! Will add this to my collection.

Mar 23, 2006 | 05:18 AM

#25

SwaTx21

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From: 805 Cal.

con - fu - sing

Mar 23, 2006 | 12:51 PM

#26

Kaeon

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SwaTx21

con - fu - sing

As a whole or just my instructions? I thought I did an ok job on this one... Hmm

Mar 23, 2006 | 04:47 PM

#27

PghtC

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Quote:

take your Three (3) power wires from the Gauges put them all together put on your O-End and crimp. Then take you other Three (3) power wires from the Lights put them all together put on your O-End and crimp. Then mount them to this bolt (Under the steering wheel (10mm bolt).

Don't you mean the gauge GROUNDS should be connected to the bolt under the steering wheel?

Mar 23, 2006 | 05:35 PM

#28

Kaeon

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Quote:

Originally Posted by PghtC

Quote:

Don't you mean the gauge GROUNDS should be connected to the bolt under the steering wheel?

good eye didnt even notice that... Fixed it just now...

Mar 26, 2006 | 07:50 PM

#29

Nick06tC

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From: Andersen AFB, Guam

just want to have this for future reference.

Jul 7, 2006 | 05:45 AM

#30

pigg613

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great tutorial

Aug 25, 2006 | 08:03 PM

#31

mike6789k

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From: Oolollol

I don't like how you ran the wires through the firewall... they should be INSIDE the gromet, not on the side... when that rubber melts, and the bare wire touches the chassis (ground)... ____ you are screwed man... hope you have a great fuse inline with those wires

Aug 26, 2006 | 02:41 AM

#32

Kaeon

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mike6789k

I don't like how you ran the wires through the firewall... they should be INSIDE the gromet, not on the side... when that rubber melts, and the bare wire touches the chassis (ground)... poop you are screwed man... hope you have a great fuse inline with those wires

The firewall is coated in paint so I don't see that being an issue. Also this is why I said

Quote:

Its your choice how you want to run the wire (Being some of you may want to relocate a gauge or just like to do things your way), Make sure your wire is ran in a way that will not conflict with any other parts (Moving Parts, etc)

So if you want to put it in the gromet go right ahead... I myself never have any luck with getting a hole started in one of those things!

Aug 26, 2006 | 01:45 PM

#33

PghtC

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the problem isn't that it is "bare metal" vs. painted. The problem with putting a wire there is the grommet pushes the wire into the edge of the metal and eventually wears through the insulation on the wire. So down the road the wire is bare and can short.

Sep 22, 2006 | 05:53 AM

#34

woffledong

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From: scottsdale az

for that problem, id heat shrink the wire, its a rubber like tube you hit with a heat gun to shrink around the wire or you can just split loom the wire and tape the loom, this will prevent any wear and tear. also id highly recomend soldering and heat shrinking the wires. crimp caps come loose after time and only cause problems.

Mar 24, 2007 | 12:15 AM

#35

kamileon

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From: Old Bridge, NJ

Had the same problem with the adapter, but i bought one from glowshift. I heard greddy makes perfect ones

Feb 27, 2008 | 04:19 PM

#36

ippskidder

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Did the glowshift oil sandwich plate work fine?

Oct 7, 2008 | 03:55 AM

#37

Pecka13

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From: Darien, IL

for the first gauge(the boost) is it required of you to drill into your downpipe, or can you just only do the "T" tap into the vac lines?? please answer ASAP i have to get this done by thursday