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Gauge Install (Autometer)

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Old 12-30-2005, 02:18 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mwuf15
the one in the link u gave fits the tc? thanks
Thats the only one I KNOW works... You can try another one don't know if it would work..
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Old 12-30-2005, 02:28 AM
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I am selling that adaptor for $50.00 SHIPPED. it is the polished one. PM me for more details
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Old 02-18-2006, 08:59 PM
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bump so i can have this in my posts!
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Old 03-11-2006, 03:23 AM
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Great install! Will add this to my collection.
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Old 03-23-2006, 05:18 AM
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con - fu - sing
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Old 03-23-2006, 12:51 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by SwaTx21
con - fu - sing

As a whole or just my instructions? I thought I did an ok job on this one... Hmm
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Old 03-23-2006, 04:47 PM
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take your Three (3) power wires from the Gauges put them all together put on your O-End and crimp. Then take you other Three (3) power wires from the Lights put them all together put on your O-End and crimp. Then mount them to this bolt (Under the steering wheel (10mm bolt).
Don't you mean the gauge GROUNDS should be connected to the bolt under the steering wheel?
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Old 03-23-2006, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by PghtC
take your Three (3) power wires from the Gauges put them all together put on your O-End and crimp. Then take you other Three (3) power wires from the Lights put them all together put on your O-End and crimp. Then mount them to this bolt (Under the steering wheel (10mm bolt).
Don't you mean the gauge GROUNDS should be connected to the bolt under the steering wheel?
good eye didnt even notice that... Fixed it just now...
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Old 03-26-2006, 07:50 PM
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just want to have this for future reference.
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Old 07-07-2006, 05:45 AM
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great tutorial
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Old 08-25-2006, 08:03 PM
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I don't like how you ran the wires through the firewall... they should be INSIDE the gromet, not on the side... when that rubber melts, and the bare wire touches the chassis (ground)... ____ you are screwed man... hope you have a great fuse inline with those wires
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Old 08-26-2006, 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by mike6789k
I don't like how you ran the wires through the firewall... they should be INSIDE the gromet, not on the side... when that rubber melts, and the bare wire touches the chassis (ground)... poop you are screwed man... hope you have a great fuse inline with those wires
The firewall is coated in paint so I don't see that being an issue. Also this is why I said

Its your choice how you want to run the wire (Being some of you may want to relocate a gauge or just like to do things your way), Make sure your wire is ran in a way that will not conflict with any other parts (Moving Parts, etc)
So if you want to put it in the gromet go right ahead... I myself never have any luck with getting a hole started in one of those things!
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Old 08-26-2006, 01:45 PM
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the problem isn't that it is "bare metal" vs. painted. The problem with putting a wire there is the grommet pushes the wire into the edge of the metal and eventually wears through the insulation on the wire. So down the road the wire is bare and can short.
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Old 09-22-2006, 05:53 AM
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for that problem, id heat shrink the wire, its a rubber like tube you hit with a heat gun to shrink around the wire or you can just split loom the wire and tape the loom, this will prevent any wear and tear. also id highly recomend soldering and heat shrinking the wires. crimp caps come loose after time and only cause problems.
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Old 03-24-2007, 12:15 AM
  #35  
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Had the same problem with the adapter, but i bought one from glowshift. I heard greddy makes perfect ones
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Old 02-27-2008, 04:19 PM
  #36  
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Did the glowshift oil sandwich plate work fine?
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Old 10-07-2008, 03:55 AM
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for the first gauge(the boost) is it required of you to drill into your downpipe, or can you just only do the "T" tap into the vac lines?? please answer ASAP i have to get this done by thursday
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Old 10-07-2008, 07:19 AM
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All you need for boost is the t tap, for a mechanical gauge. But for boost you will never be drilling into the downpipe, so no you dont have too.
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Old 06-04-2009, 05:48 PM
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Default install

in depth write up
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