Ground Wire Kit Install (Homemade)
04-15-2005, 09:38 PM
#102
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Team N.V.S.
i just bought 9 feet of 4ga to run for part of my ground wire kit as well as the main input ground wire for my amps. I also bought 18ft of 8ga for the majority of my ground kit as well as re-doing all the ground wires for my amp setup , i also bought a platinum battery terminal , ring connectors as well as 12ga speaker wire for re-wiring my speakers. so in about two weeks I should be set for better sound as well as some sick **** smoke colored ground wiring. maybe my idle will improve maybe i'll get 3hp at high rpms , maybe i'll just get a better looking setup . but hey i gotta justify my 50.00 purchases right? ok guy i'll take pics once i'm done it should look slick . I love the look of smoke wires.
04-20-2005, 02:58 AM
#103
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Team ScioNRG
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Camp Hill, PA
Posts: 360
Originally Posted by mikochu
I fabbed/installed a ground wire kit on cad455's tC on Thursday night. From the left side, to each of the ignition coil bolts, to a head bolt, to the battery, to one of the fuse box bolts. The kit used about 6' of 8 gauge wire...and 14 ring connectors...
04-24-2005, 03:58 AM
#107
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 62
Thanks for the write up. The instructions were great. I made mine from some spare Scosche wire I had. I have driven it yet but I didn't notice any different idle. I let it warm up, but it didn't seem to change any. However I didn't get shocked this time getting out; but then again I use to get shocked about 50% of the time. So we'll see. When you stop at a red light do you guys have a rough idle? Mine seems to shake the whole car. My Lightning is smoother than my XB and it has pretty big cams.
04-27-2005, 11:06 PM
#108
My car has intermittent rough idle and the car shakes a bit too...much props Miko I unfortunately purchased a kit thru ebay that with the exception of the battery connector and the adapter to connect all the different wires too. I could have just made yours for in comparison pennies compared to what I paid for my kit, of which since I hurt my back i have not been able to install it and now has a layer of dust accumalating on it.
04-28-2005, 05:17 AM
#109
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Location: Camp Hill, PA
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I finally did the ground kit for my tC. What a nightmare it was working with 4g. BTW...the "use a hammer instead of crimping" tip...forget that. Try hammering those rings down and then take a good yank at em...they pop right off. I learned this the hard way when I went over and tightened down everything and the rings started turning and pulling on the wire...
Getting to the left frame bolt and the right frame bolt on the fuse box was a pain in the a$$ and getting the engine cover back on with 4g wires running across the top of the coil packs was a pain also.
I couldnt fit a 4g from the frame into a left coil pack, under the cover, so i subbed it out with 8g and then jumped up to 4g for everything else.
Just to give yall a breakdown as to how I ran mine.
I went from the left frame to the farthest left coil pack bolt with a 4g then from the left coil pack to the farthest right coil pack bolt then from their to a bolt of the outside right of the head, then to the (neg) battery, then to the bolt holding down the fuse/relay box.
I havent had a chance to test throttle responce, but it definitely settled down to a low idle quicker then usual. I guess the lights seemed brighter. COuldnt really crank the music cuz I didnt wanna wake the neighborhood and I didnt getted shocked getting out. I ll test the rest tomorrow.
Getting to the left frame bolt and the right frame bolt on the fuse box was a pain in the a$$ and getting the engine cover back on with 4g wires running across the top of the coil packs was a pain also.
I couldnt fit a 4g from the frame into a left coil pack, under the cover, so i subbed it out with 8g and then jumped up to 4g for everything else.
Just to give yall a breakdown as to how I ran mine.
I went from the left frame to the farthest left coil pack bolt with a 4g then from the left coil pack to the farthest right coil pack bolt then from their to a bolt of the outside right of the head, then to the (neg) battery, then to the bolt holding down the fuse/relay box.
I havent had a chance to test throttle responce, but it definitely settled down to a low idle quicker then usual. I guess the lights seemed brighter. COuldnt really crank the music cuz I didnt wanna wake the neighborhood and I didnt getted shocked getting out. I ll test the rest tomorrow.
05-20-2005, 08:11 AM
#114
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 92
Can you show pics of where the grounding points are? and what are the measurments of lengths for each wire. Thanks
Originally Posted by CELL
I finally did the ground kit for my tC. What a nightmare it was working with 4g. BTW...the "use a hammer instead of crimping" tip...forget that. Try hammering those rings down and then take a good yank at em...they pop right off. I learned this the hard way when I went over and tightened down everything and the rings started turning and pulling on the wire...
Getting to the left frame bolt and the right frame bolt on the fuse box was a pain in the a$$ and getting the engine cover back on with 4g wires running across the top of the coil packs was a pain also.
I couldnt fit a 4g from the frame into a left coil pack, under the cover, so i subbed it out with 8g and then jumped up to 4g for everything else.
Just to give yall a breakdown as to how I ran mine.
I went from the left frame to the farthest left coil pack bolt with a 4g then from the left coil pack to the farthest right coil pack bolt then from their to a bolt of the outside right of the head, then to the (neg) battery, then to the bolt holding down the fuse/relay box.
I havent had a chance to test throttle responce, but it definitely settled down to a low idle quicker then usual. I guess the lights seemed brighter. COuldnt really crank the music cuz I didnt wanna wake the neighborhood and I didnt getted shocked getting out. I ll test the rest tomorrow.
Getting to the left frame bolt and the right frame bolt on the fuse box was a pain in the a$$ and getting the engine cover back on with 4g wires running across the top of the coil packs was a pain also.
I couldnt fit a 4g from the frame into a left coil pack, under the cover, so i subbed it out with 8g and then jumped up to 4g for everything else.
Just to give yall a breakdown as to how I ran mine.
I went from the left frame to the farthest left coil pack bolt with a 4g then from the left coil pack to the farthest right coil pack bolt then from their to a bolt of the outside right of the head, then to the (neg) battery, then to the bolt holding down the fuse/relay box.
I havent had a chance to test throttle responce, but it definitely settled down to a low idle quicker then usual. I guess the lights seemed brighter. COuldnt really crank the music cuz I didnt wanna wake the neighborhood and I didnt getted shocked getting out. I ll test the rest tomorrow.
05-22-2005, 10:24 PM
#115
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Bakersfield, California
Posts: 989
I did this install using the original method and it helped out with idle and other stuff. With maybe 3 more wires in the tC from coil pack to coil pack and would maybe help idle out. It helped out the fact that when i push the accelerator and suddenly release it no longer feels like an anchor is being dropped.
05-25-2005, 08:09 PM
#116
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Team ScioNRG
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 150
I have a question, unless i read wrong... This DIY guide shows how to connect the wires from A to B B to C C to D and so on. But i read on other forums and kits that they connect A to battery neg B to battery neg C to battery neg and so on. Which one is better? Thanks
05-27-2005, 05:14 PM
#118
Originally Posted by quadraphonic
Try parts-express.com for parts.. you can get the power wire, terminals, shrink wrap, etc. for pretty cheap.
