Progress Rear Anti-Sway Bar Install walkthrough
10-28-2006, 03:10 PM
#81
Junior Member
N.G.S.O.
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Atlanta (Va-Hi)
Posts: 10
Originally Posted by jonnyp
Originally Posted by tanakasan
Bolt size M10 x 1.5 x 30, Progress says 45 ft/lbs.
Just installed mine Saturday, literally fifteen minutes. No need to remove the wheels. Really notice a difference in cornering! A must have for box owners, well worth the time and $$!
BTW, no more extra nuts or washers (Rev. B, 3/29/06) just the flag nuts and 4 washers.
Just installed mine Saturday, literally fifteen minutes. No need to remove the wheels. Really notice a difference in cornering! A must have for box owners, well worth the time and $$!
BTW, no more extra nuts or washers (Rev. B, 3/29/06) just the flag nuts and 4 washers.
I left the wheels on, used the inside of one rim to hold the left side of the bar up, while I loosely threaded one bolt into the flag, then finger tightened the bolts on the other side - then back to the right to tighten them all up. I didn't bother with a torque wrench. That's a suspension part, you can't get it too tight with hand tools and you aren't breaking any of those parts.
I'm guessing my 18" wheels gave me a lot more working space. I had NO problems getting my socket on any of the bolts (used a wobble extension part of the time).
FWIW UPS delivered mine with an open box and no mounting hardware. Partshippers and progress were very cool and got the stuff I needed to me inside 3 days.
Now on to the springs.
03-13-2007, 08:11 AM
#88
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Denver, Co
Posts: 464
Techmom- Never work under a jack. Always put the vehicle on jack stands. Page 200 of the owners' manual shows the jacking points, if not terribly well. Work on level concrete, not asphalt. Crack the lugnuts loose before you start to lift the car, chock the front wheels. Stout blocks of wood can be used as spacers under the jack, to increase the throw, if you want.
Stands are available at any auto parts store- I positioned them just ahead of the rear wheels on the understructure, then let the car down onto them, pull the rear wheels.
You really don't need to get completely under the vehicle using this method, particularly if you have another person to act as assistant, hold up one side of the bar, or if you use some wire or blocks to do the same thing... Work from either side in the wheelwells...
I feel compelled to repeat this- Never work under a jack. Always use stands or ramps if you're going under the vehicle.
It's a lightweight vehicle, but you're still dead if it falls on you...
Stands are available at any auto parts store- I positioned them just ahead of the rear wheels on the understructure, then let the car down onto them, pull the rear wheels.
You really don't need to get completely under the vehicle using this method, particularly if you have another person to act as assistant, hold up one side of the bar, or if you use some wire or blocks to do the same thing... Work from either side in the wheelwells...
I feel compelled to repeat this- Never work under a jack. Always use stands or ramps if you're going under the vehicle.
It's a lightweight vehicle, but you're still dead if it falls on you...
03-13-2007, 11:30 AM
#89
Member
SL Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Baltimore MD
Posts: 52
I had jackstands and the wheels were chocked. I was trying to do it without removing the wheels so the car body needed to be high enough and thet was the problem. I had a new pneumatic 2 ton jack but the body didn't get high enough for me to feel safe and the area where the bar was to go didn't seem to raise at all. And the wheel never quite made it off the ground.
Either my jack really sucks or there was a better place to lift. I was using the spot just before the rear wheel with the indent made for that purpose.
Either my jack really sucks or there was a better place to lift. I was using the spot just before the rear wheel with the indent made for that purpose.
03-13-2007, 12:29 PM
#90
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Denver, Co
Posts: 464
Jacking the box is a little strange. My experience at the time was a little like your own- only when I used the scissor jack from under the driver's seat on the jacking point at the rear bumper was I able to get things done. My hydraulic jack didn't have enough travel. The stands went in the detents you mentioned, the wheels came off, and it was all good...
Hope that helps.
Having a large T-bar lug wrench helps, too. The stock lug wrench is really only for emergencies. Another smart buy at the autoparts store would be one of them, or an extensible lug wrench, like the gorilla wrench-
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/show...iliateid=10050
EDIT- It's smart to familiarize yourself with the car's jack & etc., anyway... flats seem to occur at the least opportune moment... usually when it's dark and the owners' manual is back at the house...
Hope that helps.
Having a large T-bar lug wrench helps, too. The stock lug wrench is really only for emergencies. Another smart buy at the autoparts store would be one of them, or an extensible lug wrench, like the gorilla wrench-
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/show...iliateid=10050
EDIT- It's smart to familiarize yourself with the car's jack & etc., anyway... flats seem to occur at the least opportune moment... usually when it's dark and the owners' manual is back at the house...
06-28-2007, 08:40 PM
#96
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 161
I installed Progress sway bar on an Echo, it was so much pain to drill hole in such small space, i had to use Craftsman Angel Driller, took me about 6 hours. it does eliminate body rolls in 0-30mph but above 30mph body roll came back but aren't as much as without the rear sway bar.
03-02-2008, 07:58 PM
#98
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Central Valley/Bay Area
Posts: 1,486
First off thanks for the write up it helps to see the pics for sure!
I just finished putting one of these on and just like everybody said...simple!
I used ramps which was way easier than jacking up the car and placing jack stands, the newer hardware with both nuts welded on is great! (see pic)
Instead of a box I used a couple of zip-tys to get the bar up against the axle while sorting out the end bolts...so with a 15mm socket, 2 long zip-tys, and a set of ramps it was a done deal in 15 mins! And the difference is great for the cost I can't imagine a better mod...now to get the front end sticking a bit better! I'm thinking some new struts will work fine!
Here is the picture with the new hardware
I just finished putting one of these on and just like everybody said...simple!
I used ramps which was way easier than jacking up the car and placing jack stands, the newer hardware with both nuts welded on is great! (see pic)
Instead of a box I used a couple of zip-tys to get the bar up against the axle while sorting out the end bolts...so with a 15mm socket, 2 long zip-tys, and a set of ramps it was a done deal in 15 mins! And the difference is great for the cost I can't imagine a better mod...now to get the front end sticking a bit better! I'm thinking some new struts will work fine!
Here is the picture with the new hardware
