I've gone through and completed a modification to the stock intake that, in total, has yielded noticeable throttle response improvements (not to be confused with increased power!). The key here is to remember an engine is basically an air pump. Thus the easier you make it to pull cooler air in and then remove it from the engine (eg 'free flow exhaust'), the better performance characteristics you'll get out of your engine.

One assumption here to make this effective is to already have some sort of sport/performance/free-flow exhaust on you car. Getting more air into the motor does no good if you can't efficiently get it back out in cycle. In my case, I went to the local muffler shop and they replaced my stock Toyota truck muffler that came on the car new with a Magnaflow HiPo muffler for $150 installed.

STEP 1: Modify the driver's side lower valance black plastic stock 'intake' piece. Currently it is a faux mesh piece that blocks airflow to the driver's side fender where the stock intake pulls cooler air from (as opposed to from the engine compartment). Taking an appropriately sized drill bit (one that fits between the faux mesh pattern), and drill out holes between the 'mesh' plastic ribs on the face of the black plastic intake piece. You can remove the 'faux' intake piece easily or drill it in place. Take your time and drill slowly. The result will be a stock appearance but will allow air to flow into the fender area (which does have baffling that blocks it off from the engine compartment itself).

STEP 2: Install a K&N air filter. These filters have an increase flow rate than other filters and thus allow the motor to breath a bit better. Less restrictive and thus makes it easier for you motor to pull air in.

STEP 3: In the lid of your airbox (the black box in which you put your new air filter,) you'll find a factor filter. Some folks refer to this as the upper charcoal filter. Basically it is a secondary filter. Remove it from your airbox lid. Some are worried that is will not allow you to pass smog in California but this is not part of your smog system or on the visual inspection check list that I'm aware of.

The end result will be increase air flow to your stock intake from the fender, less restrictive flow of air through the air/filter box, and noticeable throttle response.

IMPORTANT: If you think this will help your motor make more HP/Torque, it will not. Throttle response basically has to do with the effort it takes for your engine to breath air in, especially cool(er) air. Throttle response is important when you are driving with precision (typically hi performance driving where you want throttle responsiveness like when exiting a turn, passing, etc).

Bottom line: It costs nothing but time and as such the result is worth it, in my opinion. If you're looking for more than throttle response and want a nominal increase in true power (HP/torque) from an intake upgrade, then spend $230 on an Injen Intake.

Cheers!

 

Interesting...
Pics

 

it sounds like Dr.I's GFI mod which i plan on doing sometime soon.

Pics?

 

Where can I find out about the Dr. Isotope GFI mod?

 

http://www.yoursciontc.com/forums/in...topic=7096&hl=

 

Now replace the heatsoaky upper pipe and you'll be bonafide GFI'd.

 

re. goin GFI, other than the benfit of affecting the IAT...the static time air spends in the upper pipe is less than a tenth of a second so it seems overkill. Maybe I'm missin something.

The bene of a CAI is cooler air, that's (hopefully) in a better pressure range.

 

the charcoal filter you removed in step 3 is apart of emissions.

removing that is constituted as illegal and will make your intake non-CARB legal...

and considering how strict California is on emissions... that's your risk.

also.. removing it will not improve airflow dramatically.. it does not function as an air filter.

 

You are. Pipe heatsoaks badly. MAF heatsoaks along with it. While yes, the air moves quickly from inlet to TB, the MAF is hot, and the air is not capable of equalizing the soaked heat, so the MAF stays hot. In my IAT tests, the MAF combined with the stock upper pipe could take as long as 10 minutes to cool down to ambient after as little as 5 minutes of idling. Even stopping at a traffic light could spike IAT as much as 30º.

MAF tells the ECU it's hot, ECU retards timing and pushes less fuel. Economy up a fraction, power down a whole lot. The GFI helps stop heatsoak and keeps IAT consistent. That's all I wanted it to do. I have no expectation of it making power-- I just want to keep what I have.

 

Cool, Dr.. That makes sense & clears it up. All you've said seems golden ... & I observe!

I know I have like 6 years before needing smog, but I am concerned about stayin CARB, cali. legal.

Does Spectre address this at all? Was Spectre the only material U tested ... what about aluminum, thermal wrap, ..?

 

i was thinking about enlarging the snorkel 90 degree openning from the bottom of the airbox to 3" and tubing it down behind the bumper under the left headlight. it will basically be a CAI airbox with the filter mounted above water lines as opposed to a true CAI. i have this in my GSR and i love it. only down side is i have to remove the cover for the airbox during the raining seasons. since the TC uses panel filter, this can be a problem, but should be solved with the use of a BPV.

advantage: visually legal, filter mounted high, easy to install.
disadvantage: not a true CAI, not visually appealling for cosmetics, no R&D. do at your own risk.

 

I was thinking about this mod and was curious to know if it would make a difference if you use the sewer hose which has ridges, in turn causing a turbulent air flow which sometimes can be good, or a vinyl tubing which is smooth. The only thing i can think of is that it doesn't matter cuz the filter is going to mess with the flow anyhow. thanks

 

That's my conclusion as well. The biggest point of restriction in the intake tract is the filter, so what you put before it just has to flow more than the filter, and you'll never have a problem.