ok guys and gals after doing some research and looking at people's interior like STNC, all4degame, and Dam262a :bow:

so i ordered some stuff from Oznium...here what i ordered:

1 x FlowLighting Cold Cathode Kits - Blue, 12" = $9.99

1 x Round Rocker Switch - Blue LED = $3.49

10 x Super Bright LEDs - Blue, 5mm = $3.40

10 x Resistors - 470 Ohm = $0.50

1 x ATC Fuse Holder - 16 Gauge = $2.49

1 x ATC Fuse - 7.5 Amp = $0.39

so what do u guys think....please give me some tips on install!!
also do u guys think 7.5 amp would be ok for what i am doing. :nails:

thanks!!

oh another thing too...if anyone ordered from oznium w/ First Class Mail....how many day did it took to arive??

It'll prob take 3-5 business days to get to you. Personally I would have not ordered cathodes and went with LED strips instead. Otherwise it should be cool!

^^ why but no body suggested em :(

I'm clumsy and tend to kick things so LEDs take more abuse. The flowlighting cathodes come in a protective plastic tube so you should be okay. Don't worry bout it, just personal preference.

Well, each cathodes draws .7A, so both would draw 1.4A if you have them on the same fuse. Ideally, you would want a fuse that is rated slightly above your expected current draw. With 7.5A, you have a lot of headroom, and the fuse will be pretty much useless. You probably should have used a 3A fuse, but they will still operate just fine.

I don't mean to lecture, but the reason for having a fuse that is just larger than your nominal draw is to have the fuse blow before the components do by drawing excess current. With a 7.5A fuse, you can still draw 7A (waaaay too much for the cathodes) and damage your lighting, but the fuse will not blow to protect your equipment (which is what's supposed to happen).

plus LEDs give out a much more vibrant blue. A different blue than the blue on the cathodes.

Well, each cathodes draws .7A, so both would draw 1.4A if you have them on the same fuse. Ideally, you would want a fuse that is rated slightly above your expected current draw. With 7.5A, you have a lot of headroom, and the fuse will be pretty much useless. You probably should have used a 3A fuse, but they will still operate just fine.

I don't mean to lecture, but the reason for having a fuse that is just larger than your nominal draw is to have the fuse blow before the components do by drawing excess current. With a 7.5A fuse, you can still draw 7A (waaaay too much for the cathodes) and damage your lighting, but the fuse will not blow to protect your equipment (which is what's supposed to happen).

but along w/ cathodes i will be using about 10 leds...and i might add another 4" kit under seats so that's why i ordered 7.5amp fuse....but i will be ok to use 7.5 amp fuse right??
:nails:

Your lights will operate fine, the fuse will not change that. The power draw from the 10 LEDs will be marginal. Depending on how they're set up, they will draw a maximum of .2A, and the 4" kit would draw about 1A for the pair... I'd say a 5A would have been ideal, but it will work fine with a 7.5A fuse.

ok....i was gonna order the 5 amp fuse first but then i decided on 7.5 amp. fuse.
thank you for ur help!!

post pics when its done. i wanna see it.

You should be fine........the flexable LEDs work better under the dash though as that area is always gettign roughed up gettign in and out and with purses and bagsa nd other crap....and the cathodes break somewhat easy.......the flex leds are bullet proof to a point.....and put out a brighter light.

In my wifes tC we have 2 9"strips in the engine bay,2 4.5" strips in the engine bay,4 of the 4 pin leds in the cup holder and 2 under the dash at the foot wells,12 leds in the doors,and rear cupholders and cubbys.......and it seems there are more some where in there but i forgot where.

Also look into the dome lights they sell......they are awsome.....

post pics when its done. i wanna see it.

oh yea...i for sure will!!
:)


You should be fine........the flexable LEDs work better under the dash though as that area is always gettign roughed up gettign in and out and with purses and bagsa nd other crap....and the cathodes break somewhat easy.......the flex leds are bullet proof to a point.....and put out a brighter light.

In my wifes tC we have 2 9"strips in the engine bay,2 4.5" strips in the engine bay,4 of the 4 pin leds in the cup holder and 2 under the dash at the foot wells,12 leds in the doors,and rear cupholders and cubbys.......and it seems there are more some where in there but i forgot where.

Also look into the dome lights they sell......they are awsome.....

do u have any pic. of ur wife's tC in night w/ lights on...i wanna see it and then i might switch them w/ led strips!!

thanks!

did anyone used this switch on tC. and does it fit right on the stock slots if drill is used to make a hole??
Its Oznium round Rocker Switch.
http://www.oznium.com/product_photos/large/191.jpg

thanks

They do have a switch that fits perfectly with the authentic OEM look. That's the way I'd go myself...

yea...i know but it cost like 13 buck...so i decided to go cheap and get LED switch for $3.50....lol

If you're not into lighted they sell the OEM one at home depot/lowes for less than $10.

If you're not into lighted they sell the OEM one at home depot/lowes for less than $10.

I have one of those and it didn't cost anything for shipping :P

the switch is a GSW-45 found in the electrical section

Good thing to keep in mind, I didn't know about that, thanks for the tip

Hi

really....hmm ...i guess i should have posted this thread before buying :(
but it might buy it in future!!

thanks!!!

i have another question about the install:
to wire the Super Bright LED's i would use one resistor for each led....right?

and i found this ot oznium.com
LEDs in series without resistors
You can wire LEDs in series without the need for a resistor. For a 12 volt automotive application (which is actually calculated around 14.5 volts):
4 in series (blue, green, white, uv - blacklight, pink, aqua)
6 in series (red, yellow, orange)

but i don't know how it will work....connect 4 blue led's and then at end add a resistor?

and also which one would be ideal to use 1 resistor for each or 1 resistor for 4 leds??

thanks

You might just want to use pre-wired LEDs, or an LED bar / LED strip so you don't have to bother with resistors.

i would have ordered prewired but...i already ordered LED's and resistors :(
can't wait to install the lights tho!!

by the way....do u have the resistors for the dash light swaps like LEDmod.net have in their kits?? which would go w/ PLCC -2 LEDs for dash light swap..

thanks

I try to use one resistor for each LED because if the resistor fails you do no tend up with astring of dead lights,just one....

^^^ thanks!!

i got my stuff today...but Oznium forgot to put the transformer in for the cathodes :(
but i called them and they said they will send in..probably getting it on wednesday or thurday...:)
but i wanted to install my lights today...i'll post pic. when i get em' on!!

jj

You can always do all the work you can today and wire in the transformer when it arrives. =) That's another nice thing about the LED strips, there's no transformer box. Get some nice night shots when you're done!

ok so i went and bought some hood up wires.
So My red 18 gauge wire is "STANDARD", and black (neg) wire is " SOLID"....what is the difference in them...i did'nt open them...so if i need to return em...so should i bother returning em??

I'm not sure of the difference, but I doubt it matters... haha I use speaker wiring for all of my projects :P , makes life so much easier because it keeps the positive and negative wires together.

Anyways I'm surprised that you're planning on soldering all the LEDs and resistors yourself considering that you seem relatively new to wiring. Best of luck to you.

I did the prewired, mainly because i don't like soldering, and i don't want to deal with the confusion of resistors. Cathodes for the footwells and leds for the doors and cupholders and such will be fine, it looks perfect on mine, you should have no problems...

^^^ i hope so!!

I'm not sure of the difference, but I doubt it matters... haha I use speaker wiring for all of my projects :P , makes life so much easier because it keeps the positive and negative wires together.

Anyways I'm surprised that you're planning on soldering all the LEDs and resistors yourself considering that you seem relatively new to wiring. Best of luck to you.

i am kinda used to soldering and stuff and it is a while now...i have'nt solder anything in like 3-4 years :loser:
but i think its not difficult to put leds and resistor together w/ solder :lalala:

They do have the LEDs for the gauge cluster/HVAC swaps on the LED page. Pre-wired would have been a lot easier and LED strips will match the blue of the LEDs better then cathodes.

The round rocker won't fit in the tc socket, You will have to make it fit by doing a little bit of digging.

solid wire is a pain to use. its just one thick strand of copper while standard is multiple strands which is also more flexable and easier to work with.

ok so i tried installing the cathodes and i was connecting red wire w/ a white one on the cigar/12v output and guess black is Positive and white is negative (kinda odd)..
but finished installing em;...came out pretty cool..and light output is good blue and matches w/ LEDs!!
but have'nt put the led's in...:(

Good Job! Any pictures?

Good Job! Any pictures?

x2

i'll get em' on 2morrow!