Interior Lighting Mod!!
ok guys and gals after doing some research and looking at people's interior like STNC, all4degame, and Dam262a
so i ordered some stuff from Oznium...here what i ordered:
1 x FlowLighting Cold Cathode Kits - Blue, 12" = $9.99
1 x Round Rocker Switch - Blue LED = $3.49
10 x Super Bright LEDs - Blue, 5mm = $3.40
10 x Resistors - 470 Ohm = $0.50
1 x ATC Fuse Holder - 16 Gauge = $2.49
1 x ATC Fuse - 7.5 Amp = $0.39
so what do u guys think....please give me some tips on install!!
also do u guys think 7.5 amp would be ok for what i am doing.
thanks!!
so i ordered some stuff from Oznium...here what i ordered:
1 x FlowLighting Cold Cathode Kits - Blue, 12" = $9.99
1 x Round Rocker Switch - Blue LED = $3.49
10 x Super Bright LEDs - Blue, 5mm = $3.40
10 x Resistors - 470 Ohm = $0.50
1 x ATC Fuse Holder - 16 Gauge = $2.49
1 x ATC Fuse - 7.5 Amp = $0.39
so what do u guys think....please give me some tips on install!!
also do u guys think 7.5 amp would be ok for what i am doing.
thanks!!
I'm clumsy and tend to kick things so LEDs take more abuse. The flowlighting cathodes come in a protective plastic tube so you should be okay. Don't worry bout it, just personal preference.
Well, each cathodes draws .7A, so both would draw 1.4A if you have them on the same fuse. Ideally, you would want a fuse that is rated slightly above your expected current draw. With 7.5A, you have a lot of headroom, and the fuse will be pretty much useless. You probably should have used a 3A fuse, but they will still operate just fine.
I don't mean to lecture, but the reason for having a fuse that is just larger than your nominal draw is to have the fuse blow before the components do by drawing excess current. With a 7.5A fuse, you can still draw 7A (waaaay too much for the cathodes) and damage your lighting, but the fuse will not blow to protect your equipment (which is what's supposed to happen).
I don't mean to lecture, but the reason for having a fuse that is just larger than your nominal draw is to have the fuse blow before the components do by drawing excess current. With a 7.5A fuse, you can still draw 7A (waaaay too much for the cathodes) and damage your lighting, but the fuse will not blow to protect your equipment (which is what's supposed to happen).
Originally Posted by rcf22
Well, each cathodes draws .7A, so both would draw 1.4A if you have them on the same fuse. Ideally, you would want a fuse that is rated slightly above your expected current draw. With 7.5A, you have a lot of headroom, and the fuse will be pretty much useless. You probably should have used a 3A fuse, but they will still operate just fine.
I don't mean to lecture, but the reason for having a fuse that is just larger than your nominal draw is to have the fuse blow before the components do by drawing excess current. With a 7.5A fuse, you can still draw 7A (waaaay too much for the cathodes) and damage your lighting, but the fuse will not blow to protect your equipment (which is what's supposed to happen).
I don't mean to lecture, but the reason for having a fuse that is just larger than your nominal draw is to have the fuse blow before the components do by drawing excess current. With a 7.5A fuse, you can still draw 7A (waaaay too much for the cathodes) and damage your lighting, but the fuse will not blow to protect your equipment (which is what's supposed to happen).
Your lights will operate fine, the fuse will not change that. The power draw from the 10 LEDs will be marginal. Depending on how they're set up, they will draw a maximum of .2A, and the 4" kit would draw about 1A for the pair... I'd say a 5A would have been ideal, but it will work fine with a 7.5A fuse.
You should be fine........the flexable LEDs work better under the dash though as that area is always gettign roughed up gettign in and out and with purses and bagsa nd other crap....and the cathodes break somewhat easy.......the flex leds are bullet proof to a point.....and put out a brighter light.
In my wifes tC we have 2 9"strips in the engine bay,2 4.5" strips in the engine bay,4 of the 4 pin leds in the cup holder and 2 under the dash at the foot wells,12 leds in the doors,and rear cupholders and cubbys.......and it seems there are more some where in there but i forgot where.
Also look into the dome lights they sell......they are awsome.....
In my wifes tC we have 2 9"strips in the engine bay,2 4.5" strips in the engine bay,4 of the 4 pin leds in the cup holder and 2 under the dash at the foot wells,12 leds in the doors,and rear cupholders and cubbys.......and it seems there are more some where in there but i forgot where.
Also look into the dome lights they sell......they are awsome.....
Originally Posted by j05tc
post pics when its done. i wanna see it.

Originally Posted by BZinn1
You should be fine........the flexable LEDs work better under the dash though as that area is always gettign roughed up gettign in and out and with purses and bagsa nd other crap....and the cathodes break somewhat easy.......the flex leds are bullet proof to a point.....and put out a brighter light.
In my wifes tC we have 2 9"strips in the engine bay,2 4.5" strips in the engine bay,4 of the 4 pin leds in the cup holder and 2 under the dash at the foot wells,12 leds in the doors,and rear cupholders and cubbys.......and it seems there are more some where in there but i forgot where.
Also look into the dome lights they sell......they are awsome.....
In my wifes tC we have 2 9"strips in the engine bay,2 4.5" strips in the engine bay,4 of the 4 pin leds in the cup holder and 2 under the dash at the foot wells,12 leds in the doors,and rear cupholders and cubbys.......and it seems there are more some where in there but i forgot where.
Also look into the dome lights they sell......they are awsome.....
thanks!
Originally Posted by ichibansf
If you're not into lighted they sell the OEM one at home depot/lowes for less than $10.
the switch is a GSW-45 found in the electrical section







