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need a replacement 14mm bolt for my brake caliper

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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 02:22 AM
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Default need a replacement 14mm bolt for my brake caliper

Decided to check my brake pads out today, hoping they were worn enough so I could install my Axxis Ultimates. They weren't, but I ran into something very troubling - the 14mm bolt that holds the calipers together was MISSING on the driver's side. My guess is that I didn't tighten it enough when I last inspected it a few months ago, and it fell off somewhere.

Anyways, I need to get a replacement bolt pronto. Does anyone know where I might be able to purchase aforementioned bolt, or know the length of the bolt so I could find one myself?
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 02:26 AM
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try trdsparks.com or if you wanna take the other one out go to lowes or home depot and see if you can find one.
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 06:06 PM
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Yeah go to home depot or a hardware store. Make sure they've got a big bolt room.
Old Sep 16, 2008 | 02:32 AM
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stealership
Old Sep 16, 2008 | 03:30 AM
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Default Turn the rotors

When you install the new bolt put a wrech on the caliper pin. There is place fro one. This will hold the pin so you can torque the bolt properly. I recommend you have those rotors machined when you put on pads. Also do your self a favor and put on factory pads when its time to replace. Less noise, less dust, and etc.
Old Sep 16, 2008 | 06:30 AM
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^^ OEM isn't always better than aftermarket... I'm on the original pads, they started squealing at me at 9000 miles (with plenty of pad left), and I clean my wheels every three days to get rid of all that brown ____. And you shouldn't need to get your rotors machined unless they are warped...

I will agree with the thing about the pin though.
Old Sep 17, 2008 | 05:40 AM
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No offense, but aren't you only 18. I've done hundreds of brake jobs. I won't even put aftermarket pads on a customers car anymore. I always end up doing a free brake job because of it. Its not always the pads that create the squeals. It can be the hardware or unmachined rotors, and etc.

About the rotor thing you should always machine em. I've had a customer say "no don't machine. The rotors are fine just slap those pads on" We told him, but ok. Same guy came back less than 300 miles. "My brakes are squealing" he said. I told him "We need to machine the rotors." He swore up and down. It's not the rotors. Guess what it was.

I want to tell you something a Toyota factory instructor told me. There was a time when the Japanes engineers wanted rotors and drums replaced at every brake job.
Old Sep 17, 2008 | 06:00 AM
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why machine the rotors? they're already worn, and why have less of the only heatsink (rotor) you have? For the money, it's safer to put on a new set of rotors with the brake job, why not?

I agree with the Toyota factory instructor, replace them, machining them you end up with problems if they're not turned on the car. Since the geometry doesn't meet up well if off the car.

I've found Brembo OEM replacement rotors that aren't that expensive, and they're just as good as whatever Toyota's supplier provided.

I do have to disagree with the aftermarket pads, something like Porterfield's R4-S Carbon Kevlar pad is amazing when compared to OEM. Now if you're talking some cheap stuff from the local auto parts store, then yes I agree that is junk and OEM Toyota would be better than that.
Old Sep 17, 2008 | 01:30 PM
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As long as the rotor is above min. spec when your done machining it. And the factory doesn't recommend replacing. It will be perfectly safe. Believe me there are plenty of toyota owners that have used up the rotors life span. We replace them at that point.

About taking them off the car to machine. Thats the only way to go. I've talked to many different techs. Worked at 3 dealerships and only met one guy that turned them on the car. Im just trying to help people take care of their cars
Old Sep 17, 2008 | 02:55 PM
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^^^ For sure. By the way even though I'm 18... I've still gone through three cars, and two sets of pads on each, and every mechanic I've talked to says the same thing, only machine 'em if they're warped. Wasn't trying to pick a fight or anything.

I'll agree with you 90% on the OEM pads being better, but most people who use aftermarket probably use what sciontc_mich were talking about (cheap crap). But you gotta admit... the tC's brakes make a ____load of dust. They're great but I'm going TRD on my next brake job in a couple weeks...
Old Sep 17, 2008 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by drjohnson36
^^^ For sure. By the way even though I'm 18... I've still gone through three cars, and two sets of pads on each, and every mechanic I've talked to says the same thing, only machine 'em if they're warped. Wasn't trying to pick a fight or anything.

I'll agree with you 90% on the OEM pads being better, but most people who use aftermarket probably use what sciontc_mich were talking about (cheap crap). But you gotta admit... the tC's brakes make a ____load of dust. They're great but I'm going TRD on my next brake job in a couple weeks...
i have hawk pads. theyre great.

and in reference. you ARE supposed to machine the rotors or get all new ones together to do a PROPER brake job. it may not be necessary, but it is the right way to do it.

think of it this way, you get a new clutch, you have to get the flywheel resurfaced or youre going to run into problems down the road. same idea.

my $0.02
Old Sep 21, 2008 | 07:17 PM
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sry to kinda thread jack, but i went to change my pads today and i have the bolt. its just it wont come out. it just keeps turning and turning. I had it out before and i know how long it is and i def turned the damn thing more than it needs to be. am i retarted or is there something wrong with the bolt?
Old Sep 21, 2008 | 07:39 PM
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Pull on it?
Old Sep 21, 2008 | 11:23 PM
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i tried that 2. i pulled really hard 2. i might have to take it to toyota and hope they will fix it under warrenty.
Old Sep 21, 2008 | 11:26 PM
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It's probably not even broken, you're probably just doing something wrong. Double check everything.

This guess might sound retarded but try starting the car, pumping the brakes a few times, and then let them go and turn off the car, and then try yanking on your bolt.
Old Sep 22, 2008 | 10:09 AM
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If you have Ace Hardware store? Go there! I'm serious! I lost a nut for my taillights so I went there. Sure enough...Metric size was one side of the aisle while standard was on the other. You name it: screws, nuts, bolts. They will have it!
Old Sep 22, 2008 | 01:30 PM
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sry to kinda thread jack, but i went to change my pads today and i have the bolt. its just it wont come out. it just keeps turning and turning. I had it out before and i know how long it is and i def turned the damn thing more than it needs to be. am i retarted or is there something wrong with the bolt?

There is a spot on the caliper pin for a wrench. So hold the pin with that wrench and take the bolt out with another wrench [/quote]
Old Sep 22, 2008 | 02:38 PM
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Try advanced Auto for the bolt, they have a section with mertic automotive bolts. I've had better luck there then Home Depot if the bolt isn't too long. For rotors, I always bought new on my last car, a '96 Ford Contour. It was actually cheaper to get new ones then have them machined, and should give you less problems.

When I do change pads, I always use the anti-squeal grease on the back side facing the caliper pisotn, it works wonders. You can get little packets of the stuff at the front counter of most autoparts stores. Haven't had any issues with aftermarket, or just never notices since Ford's OEM parts may not be the best to begin with. Toyota seems to have higher standards, at least when it comes to the coolant, transmission fluid and oil filters. I'll let you know in 5k miles when I need my brakes done how aftermarket works on the xB.
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