So this is my half-a$$&%, after the fact DIY/How To on the SPC Camber Bolts install. There really isn't much to the install, but I'll cover what I think is relevant and answer any questions that I can.

I bought my camber kit from TRDSparks back in September and just finally installed it. I paid just over $50 shipped.... and they're roughly the same now. They're labeled as Progress Alignment Kit on their site, but they're very obviously from SPC when you get them.

Usual Disclaimer: I'm not responsible if you f up your car and crash or something. This is just a simple DIY... take all necessary safety precautions. And remember, it's not my problem if you do it wrong... so do your research and take your time if you're unsure.

First things first... you need certain tools to get this done. As an aside... I used 1/2" drive everything. I suppose 3/8" might be OK too. Up to you and what you have.

Necessary Equipment:

- Lug Wrench (I prefer my new toy there in yellow... but a Gorilla Wrench is an EXCELLENT investment)
- 21mm Socket for Lug Nuts (as needed)
- 2 x 22mm Sockets for OEM Bolts (I used a 13/16 socket with my Gorilla wrench as the second one)
--- Or also substitute a 22mm wrench for one of them? You will need TWO sides to wrench with.
- Breaker Bar
- 1/2" Drive Ratchet
- 18mm Socket for SPC Bolts
- 21mm DEEP Socket for other end of SPC Bolts
- Proper Torque Wrench
- SPC Camber Bolts, Part #81290

http://downloads.allankintz.com/tC/DIY/camberbolts/DIY-camberbolts01.jpg

So... make sure you're on level ground, safety this, blah blah blah. You should know this part by now.

Jack up the car. Remove your wheel (remember, 21mm lug nuts). Observe both OEM bolts... and let's pretend in this picture, that top bolt is still the OEM one like the bottom one. :lalala:

http://downloads.allankintz.com/tC/DIY/camberbolts/DIY-camberbolts02.jpg

First thing you're going to do is take note of brake lines and the ABS line... my driver's side was OK, but I had to move the ABS line out of the way on the passenger side. Then use both of your 22mm wrenches/ratchets to remove the upper bolt. This is where the breaker bar or impact gun is helpful. They're probably going to be tight.

Once you remove that, time to grab your SPC bolt. Since mine were already on my car... here's a pic of them from SPC:

http://downloads.allankintz.com/tC/DIY/camberbolts/DIY-camberbolts03.jpg

On the end with the head of the bolt is a washer with a big tab on the outside (the handle) and a little tab on the inside. The big tab on the outside needs to point in the direction of the camber you want - towards the car for negative camber and away from the car for positive. The small inner tab needs to fit into the mounting hole so that big washer sits flush as it should.

http://downloads.allankintz.com/tC/DIY/camberbolts/DIY-camberbolts04.jpg

It might take a couple minutes to get that small tab to fit in the mounting hole. You need to rotate the bolt to get the tab to slip in behind the thicker section (NOTE: This will sound like English if you have the bolt in your hand, trust me). Then when you get started, give it a couple taps with your ratchet... I mean rubber mallet?

Then start threading the nut on the other end with your 18mm socket on the head end and the 21mm deep socket on the nut end. Tighten it down till it makes contact with the strut - but DO NOT tighten it.

Then loosen up the lower OEM bolt (both 22mm ends again - breaker bar or impact gun as needed). Just loosen, do not remove. Then you can rotate the new upper bolt and set desired camber. There's no way to know exactly what you're setting here... so I just tried to set them both at the maximum. SPC claims you can get up to an additional -1.75 degrees depending on the application. I don't know exactly what the tC gets, but I'm going to get it aligned later on and find out what exactly it's at and make sure everything is even.

Once you have the bolt rotated to the setting you want... be sure to HOLD the head end of the bolt steady and tighten from the nut end. SPC says 125 ft lbs for this model of bolt... so that's what I set it to. Then tighten the lower OEM bolt back up (these OEM ones are to be 177 ft lbs - thanks mich!).

TADA!

http://downloads.allankintz.com/tC/DIY/camberbolts/DIY-camberbolts05.jpg

Reinstall wheel... lower car from jack... torque lug nuts to 76 ft lbs. Lather. Rinse. Repeat on other side.

So it's pretty simple, really. As long as you have all the right tools, you'll be fine. I would recommend getting it aligned at some point afterwards. I'm not going to do mine immediately, but probably in the next week or two. I don't think it should change anything else with the alignment, but I've never installed anything like this, so I can't be sure.

References:
- SPC Info Page (http://www.spcperformance.com/PROD_DIR/SPCPerf_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=81290&cmd3=)
- SPC Install Instructions (http://www.spcperformance.com/PROD_DIR/SPCPerf_PROD_INSTALL.cfm?cmd=81290ins.txt&cmd2=81290) (not tC specific)
- SPC Install Video (http://spc-tv.com/?mod=videos&view=profile&vID=l89y9YRPGMB059iQ) (again, not tC specific)

Questions?

NICE!

Thanks Allan! :D

Not a problem... It's not the most thorough... but you get the idea. :)

Got my alignment scheduled for next week. Will be requesting max negative camber up front. :) Can't wait to see what I end up with.

Not a problem... It's not the most thorough... but you get the idea. :)

ack154- to help you out, i just checked the shop manual. it's 177ft-lbs for the front lower strut/camber bolts. You said you set it to 125ft-lbs, to be safe re-do it to 177ft-lbs :) gotta keep ya safe!

good write up though, interested to know what the end camber will be with it maxed out.

Thanks! I'll have to check them tonight. Updated the DIY above as well.

nice write up allen... i have the same kit and havent installed it yet. update us on the final camber when ur done!

Nice DIY Allen.

Nice write up. Thanks!!!

for the price you paid..

do u think this is a good upgrade for someone who has sways/struts /springs.

^what do you mean upgrade? They don't do anything performance wise....the only reason you'd need them is if you want to run more camber.

well to adjust your camber wouldnt that b reaping better handling/performance

^what do you mean upgrade? They don't do anything performance wise....the only reason you'd need them is if you want to run more camber.

actually to some extent adding some negative camber can give u some better handling Blizz... but sometimes at the expense of your tires.. but at the highest point on these which is roughly -1.75 (advertised)... that amount is a good thing if your into hard cornering and handling

If you're looking for every day performance, this is not it. I got these to run more negative camber for autocross - which helps with turn-in.

i do alot of touge, i'm just wondering for a cheap mod plus a pro align job would these bolts help me out

It's possible... they're obviously not expensive, so it would be something to give a try if you're curious.

I'll be getting my alignment on Thursday.

^what do you mean upgrade? They don't do anything performance wise....the only reason you'd need them is if you want to run more camber.

actually to some extent adding some negative camber can give u some better handling Blizz... but sometimes at the expense of your tires.. but at the highest point on these which is roughly -1.75 (advertised)... that amount is a good thing if your into hard cornering and handling

ohh I know that! you could DEFINITELY feel a difference when you change your camber settings...I should know, I've had my camber as low as -2.5(front) and -3.8(rear) lol but too much camber isn't a good thing either.
I thought he just wanted to replace the bolts and leave it at that....there would be be NO difference performance wise unless you actually get an alignment with more negative camber.

Nice DIY!

I'm at the dealer now to get my alignment. Requested at least -2* up front with before and after printouts.

Blizz how did u get so much neg. camber up front?

*sigh*

The new guy just came out to tell me how bad my tires are going to wear at that setting. Too bad I couldn't deal with one of the regulars.

"its ok. Just set them to what I asked for."

lol @ new guy

So here's what I ended up with... (green is the new setting).

LF Before|LF After|Setting|RF After|RF Before
-1.88*|-1.93*|Camber|-1.92*|-2.09*
3.40*|3.26*|Caster|3.29*|3.22*
0.91*|-0.02*|Toe|-0.03*|0.92*

LR Before|LR After|Setting|RR After|RR Before
-1.59*|-1.50*|Camber|-1.19*|-1.31*
0.27*|0.28*|Toe|0.20*|0.20*


The guy wasn't really "new" .. but not one of the usuals I deal with. I rarely see this guy. The other guys know me and will help me out - they also know wtf I'm talking about.

Thoughts on that setup? I actually didn't want to go here for this first one but I wanted to get it done before the next event (this sunday). If necessary, I have another place lined up to make changes if I have to go again. They just couldn't get me in soon enough this time.

looks good... the toe was a tad outta what i would preffer.. but i think thats a very good point ur at.. anything more then -2 and yea kiss ur tires bye bye lol... very nice!

Ya, I was surprised how far off the front toe was. I just had an alignment a couple months ago too. Rear toe is right on the border of spec (upper limit is .25 I think). Not where I'd want it... but I'll just have to be sure to rotate.

yuh thats funky it it shifted so much if the interval was short.. maybe they didnt tighten the bolt enough.. that or you got some crazy vibrating roads lol

Blizz how did u get so much neg. camber up front?

I dunno lol....but I'm maxed out on the camber plates on my SSPs, that helps a great deal, i think?

When I align my car with the new wheels, I think I may go for -1.8 to -2.0 degrees of camber. Ack, why so little camber in the rear??

Don't care about the rear too much. It's neg camber in the front that helps with turn-in.

Don't care about the rear too much. It's neg camber in the front that helps with turn-in.

that toe in the rear seems a little maxed out. the total toe (nominal) is 0.30 so each side is usually 0.15 each. just to let ya know. and I know you don't care about the rear camber that much, but you'd think they could've at least got it even!

our rear suspension has passive toe (steering) control via rubber bushings based on centrifugal force. So it would be good to have toe and camber the same both sides back there.

The fronts look good so it gave another 0.30 degrees in the front.. Not bad, easier to use this than to have to remove both bolts like toyota does to adjust the front camber.

so what exactly does camber to for your handling?

A little bit of negative camber up front will help with turning. Basically give you more grip - so the outside tire will be more flat on the surface of the road instead of rolling over on to its outside edge - thus having a larger contact patch and then more grip.

these camber bolts are for the front right? what about the rear? are there camber kits for the rear? Any help?! i wanna be able to tuck my rear tires with low offset wheels

back from the dead i guess?...i just got 2 sets of the ingalls front camber bolts and pretty much install them the same way right?...but each set comes with 2 so upper and lower bolt on the struts right? and both tabs facing in for neg camber??

back from the dead i guess?...i just got 2 sets of the ingalls front camber bolts and pretty much install them the same way right?...but each set comes with 2 so upper and lower bolt on the struts right? and both tabs facing in for neg camber??

I believe you'd want the top tab in and the bottom out to get the best angle.

I believe you'd want the top tab in and the bottom out to get the best angle.


alright i think i know what your saying now. so the top is in so you can pull it in more, than the bottom is out so you can push the bottom out and top in?? lol

Hey guys bringing this back from the dead sorry.

I just got my camber bolts in from Dezod today. Need to get them installed and aligned before saturdays auto x event. All season I have been running on my stock camber and my Rs3s shoulders are almost dead.

Question were you guys able to pull -2 degrees in the front with only using the top mounting bolt? Or did you guys have to use the lower one as well? Picked this kit up http://www.dezod.com/pd_ingalls_engineering_front_camber_kittc_05.cfm

Comes with bolts for the top and the bottom. And if you did use the lower bolt hole as well did you point the arrow to the tire or to the engine? I know the top needs to be pointed to the engine for neg camber.